New-to-240z

I have a 73' Tach in perfect working condition I'd be willing to let go . . . that is if you're interested. . .

hook it up with some side shots if you can. I am getting the same front air dam and want to see how the sides attach to the standard front bumper. I'm afraid of my wheel rubbing the fender if it protrudes too much.

Anyone have any good documentation on how to remove the interior door panels so i can do this job? I don't have the $$ at the moment for a Haynes or Chilton's manual. Plus I'm going to be broke from the handle itself. ($47.00 fore 1!!) I looked and found Door Mechanisms . . . Will i need that too? Or just the actual handle? The Mech. is another $130!!!!

U guys are killing me , I got really pissed when I found out but it was partly my fault since yes . . . :stupid: I didn't open the door for her.

I will be switching out the tires tomorrow front to back back to front. Hopefully that will fix the problem. I've already checked everything, and the rotors are perfectly fine. I replaced the rotors and pads at the same time and did a break in session and let them sit after finishing. So, I'm thinking its really the tires like you guys said. I'll be checking that one out tomorrow. Thanx for all the quick replys

So, I replaced all the front end bushings with poly bushings. I also replaced tie rods, steering coupler with poly, and sway bar. I had the tires balanced and alignment fixed. ( camber is off because of HP struts and Eibach springs. ) Here's the problem. When I'm driving around town at 0-45 mph I get no wiggle in the steering wheel. BUT, as soon as I hit 50 or so I get a pretty violent wiggle and its pretty noticeable. If I try to hold tight to the steering wheel to stop it, as hard as i try it won't. Now, HERE'S THE REALLY WEIRD PART!!! At night almost never happens? What the hell is up with that? And this shake doesn't always happen at the same speeds. Sometimes it won't shake till I hit 70 and sometimes it will be shaking and then all of a sudden disappear and then come back again. What do you think the problem could be? I'm totally lost! Someone please help me out here! -Matt

Hey guys, been a while since I've posted on the forums. I've been really busy with the Z and work. But recently I took a girl out on a date and when she went to open the door it was still locked ( I guess she didn't realize that a 1973 car doesn't have automatic locks! ) and she pulled up on the handle pretty hard and broke the tab. Now, if you're outside the car and looking at the handle dead on, the tab that broke is on the left side. You can see where it broke when you pull up on the handle and see the end is missing/broken. I was wondering how do i go about fixing this? First off, how do i take off the interior door panel? Second, will I need to take out the window? Third, Is anyone in Orange,CA willing to help me out on this one? ( Bob, wink wink!) Thanx for the help guys, I really appreciate it. -Matt

Hey guys, I know this is kind of off topic but I felt like i should post this on every forum i visit pertaining to our Z's. I am sitting at a shop located in Orange,CA minutes (2 actually) from MSA. The shops name Brake Masters. I just bought a set of HP's, MSA sways, and Eibach springs. I had them installed here at BM and they did a wonderful job. Steven (The owner) was happy to introduce me to the guys working on my car ( Who by the way also own a 280Z ) and got me coffee for the wait. I felt VERY impressed with the work ethic here and safe to know the guy working on my car had a Z of his own. Well after 4-5 hours of working on the car, installing sway bars, struts, bump stops, and springs, something didn't seem right. The front was sitting VERY HIGH and the rear sitting very low. Come to find out after a vist to MSA that the springs were swapped backwards. I asked them if there were any instructions or written words saying which springs go where and they paused and continued " Nope, we should really write that down on the box shouldn't we?" Well, I'll tell you i was pretty #$%^ pissed off. After driving back and telling Steven what had happened, and feeling the bill raising for the work he would now have to re-do because of error on MSA and Eibach's side . . . He looked and me and said NO WORRIES AT ALL. We'll pull the other cars off the racks and have my guys switch it all out and fix it at no extra cost to you. He grabbed me a chair, said make yourself at home, and his guys went right back to work. I can't tell you how relieved I was. Not only was he not charging me for the alignment 4 days from now, but he was not charging me for the extra 2 hours or so of work his guys have to do. This place is top notch, and the owner one of a kind. The second this happened I felt inclined to post up on the forums about this day. If you're ever in need of bushing replacement, installations, brake work, what not . . . Brake Masters off North Batavia St. is the place to go. (714) 288-6001 Ask for Steven and tell him Matt with the 240 sent ya!

I went with the SR because I already had one in my track 240sx and ended up selling teh body and kept the engine. I can also get replacement SR's for pretty cheap and have friends that can get my parts pretty cheap too. So, it makes for a much better engine choice for myself. I'm DIEING to get some full front bracing support. That way, with the extra HP and TQ the frame won't be twisting at all.

I think what you are talking about are the struts, the actual illumina strut that can be adjusted. But the adjustment is only for the dampening and rebound not for the height. The major factor in how high the car will ride will depend on how strong the springs are. ( At least that's what I'm guessing here. Someone PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong. ) That's why I figured that if I got Non-Progressive ( forgot the name of them) springs in there with the illuminas they would could be cut without sacrificing the ride quality of the car. It would just be actually lowering the car and the length of travel. And with the adjustable illuminas i can make the travel less with a stiffer setting to make up for the lower springs. I'm just trying to keep the price low here and still make for a safe ride and good controlling.

Illumina Tokico springs or shocks/struts? I know they have the HP's and the Illuminas but i've only heard of a tokico springs. Never heard of specific springs for the illuminas. I'll check into that.

Before anything I just want to say please no flaming! I know how strongly everyone on here feels about keeping the Z's as stock as possible. I love my car, if it were a woman and could . . . . I'd marry it! But, I wanted to go this route engine wise becuz i love the motor, and i'm familiar with it. With that being said here are a few things that will help with solving my question . . SR20 all aluminum block and head which takes about 200-300 lbs off the front of the car. It is also located VERY far back in the engine bay given the car a more mid-engine feel. It also makes the front ride a LOT higher! So, with that being said . . Hey guys, I recently put an SR20 into my 72 240Z and LOVE IT! Swap was done down at Vildini Motorsports!!! GREAT GREAT GREAT GUYS! Adrien is the man! Anyway, I'm looking to upgrade the suspension on my car becuz since the swap my car sits pretty damn high. I know its because of the weight difference, so here's my question to you. . This car is driven about 4 days a week and might see an AutoX once or twice a year, but mostly street miles. I don't want a rough ride but i don't want lean in my turns. I had this setup in mind . . Tokico HP's Eibach Springs MMS sway bars and new bump stops. Now the only problem i forsee is that this spring and strut setup is for the stock 240z, and I want my car lowered the 1.0" it will lower it. But, since i saw such a DRAMATIC rise in the height in the front of the car i'm afraid that these will be doing the same thing. Does anyone here with an SR20 or anyone with knowledge have any recomendations as to what i should do? I really don't feel like having my struts sectioned, seeing as it would be a hassle. But if there's no way around it I'll do it. So, what do you guys think? On a side note I was thinking of going coilovers and sectioning the struts, but I don't want the harsher ride of coilovers. please help. Matt

I think 300 is a good price. So, I'll stick with that. Plus I'll be going the body kit route so i won't really need the front or rear bumpers. I'll give him a call later today and see if he wants it. If not, I'll just throw it up on ebay or something. Ebay makes dreams come true, and puts money in your pockets.

I'm not looking for 500. I was thinking more around 300 or so. I have the thinner type from what i have gathered. The inside has no extra padding or foam or whatnot. I've seen the bigger bumpers and mine is DEF thinner. I can put it up on Ebay, but i have a friend that is VERY interested in buying them. He saw it sitting in my garage a few days ago and was like . . "DAMN MAN that is one nice bumper! U thinking of selling it?" Well, I'll throw some pics up here soon and show you guys what she looks like.

Thanx for all the responses guys, but I'm really looking more for a price @E : I will DEF take your word for it and go your route. I was actually thinking of getting a carbon fiber rear bumper and front bumper. Cali is a BITCH when it comes to bumper laws. @zhead : Front bumper is exactly the same. In perfect conditon. I will be taking pictures of both here very soon. @ Mat M : Come on man, help me out! I know this thing is worth money, I just don't know how much. Thanx again guys for the help. I'll be taking pictures of the rear and front on friday and posting up.

Hey guys, I'm going to be doing a repaint on my car and will not be using the rear bumper on my 73 Z. The bumper is in PERFECT CONDITION. No dents, no scratches, rubber is NOT WARPER AT ALL, and chrome is VERY SHINY even without any polishing. I am thinking of selling it to a friend but didn't know what kind of price I should sell it for. I have seen a rear bumper on ebay go for around $500, and that was a month or two ago. Its shape was EXACTLY like mine. I was just wondering what you all think I should let it go for. ( In case any of you are wondering, I am going to be bondo-ing the holes and such and will be repainting the car, prob in a shade or two lighten then gunmetal. If U've ever seen the Acura RSX in that dark grey/gunmetal, that's what I'm going for. ) So guys, what do you think?

JUST BEAUTIFUL!!!! That's all i can say!

I'm sorry Dave. That's my bad for messing up your name. I just sent you a e-mail about the harness a little while ago. Thanx for the detailed instructions!!! I can't tell you how much easier that is going to make the install. How may i ask did you wire up the city driving lights? Did you just put them on a switch somewhere in the car? I've never really set up headlights except unplugging the cord, and then re-plugging the cord! Once again, Sorry for the name mis-match.

Hey guys. I just bought this set of headlights . . . http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=011&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=320125114642&rd=1,1 (Ebay I know) Will, the guy who makes the headlight harness, said these are very nice and bright and make a nice difference for the price. I bought them and they are nice construction and look pretty damn clean. I was going to install them at the shop where my car is until i got there. I realized that i have no idea how to take out the old stock housings and replace them with these. I did a search and came up with . . Undo all the bolts on the inner fender where the splash guard is for the light. Then there will be a few more boplts that you undo and bam, the headlight housing pops right out. But I realized . . How the heck am i going to put the new ones in? The new ones (as you can tell in the first pic on the top right) don't have any holes to screw into. They have these metal tabs that pop out and that's it. I was hoping someone could shed some light on this for me. Are the stock ones the same way? Any help would be greatly appriciated. Thanx ahead of time and i will be giving you my review on them after they are installed with Will's headlight upgrade harness. Will be doing it all this weekend.

Mat M, how do you know these things? ) Got a few guns hiding in the closet do ya?

i have read each article about the swap out. My question still remains though. I just wanted to know if anyone here had done the swap on a 73 with the same year parts i am looking into getting. The swap that is very detailed was for a 71 using 72 parts. He found that there was a difference. I'm hoping someone here can elaborate on the parts i can get my hands on. I'm just hoping for a little more help. I have a good understanding, just wondering if anyone here has any ideas or words of knowledge

Hello everyone, I will be swapping out my auto to a manual conversion here in a very short time, and have just a few questions. I have someone who has a 1974 260z pedal assembly that he can sell me. I was just wondering if this assembly would work for my 1973 240z. (this will be both the clutch pedal and brake pedal, seeing as from what i've read, the brake pedal for a MT is smaller then the AT.) I also have someone who can sell me a 1972 240z pedal assembly with the actual hard line from the MC to the SC. He on the other hand has been hard to get in touch with and i don't know if he'll come thru. He is very busy lately and hasn't returned my e-mails. Anyway, i was just wondering if anyone here might have one in their JY they have seen or what not? I have checked around in Orange,CA and haven't come up on any. If u could help me out it would be a GREAT GREAT HELP. If not, Any information on what parts will work and won't would be GREATLY helpful incase i do come accross something. Thanx again o wise ones . . . -Matt

or from what's i've understood, you can use the MSA SS brake lines instad and just run them to the hard brake line on the frame of the car. Less work and great pedal feel. (someone correct me if i am wrong.)

can it be replaced without replacing the filler tube? Cause that's gotta be where my gas leak is coming from.

Just to pull this back, I was wondering . . . I have been noticing this recently with my 73. Now, the PO actually had the tank POR'ed inside, but not outside. He also had the hoses replaced with all factory parts. NOW, he didn't replace the filler neck ( from start of filler cap to the tank. I took a look yesterday at it and it has NO cracks or anything, BUT i noticed that after a hard left i have a streak of gas down the rear of the car from the filler door. So, i read on the forums about the Wate Disposal gasket at AceHardware and went ahead and repalced it. It did help, but i still get a small amount of it seeping out. So i took another look and noticed that there is a rubbery like thin gasket that is held down by the neck and (i think) 3 screws. I was wondering if this gasket could be replaced without having to buy a new neck? Is this part of the neck, or is it a replaceable gasket? I really do think this is my minor problem.