Diseazd

The Nissan dealership in Roanoke. You can usually find the ITM ad on eBay though.

I just received my new .040 over ITM pistons......they're beautiful.....look like factory Nissan. If you need replacement pistons for your Z's or 510's, use these pistons. Let's keep a good supplier of pistons for our cars.

That's right, you told me that before.......you'll love that set up Jeff....lots of low end torque! Good luck.....post pics of the mods.

Hi Jeff....Yes it revs better than a standard stroke (long stroke) L28.....it drives so smooth and doesn't fight getting to 7000 rpm. I imagine this is what a Ferrari feels like with their short stroke motors. Remember to shim the towers .080 inches and shim up the springs .080 also. You do that with 2 extra spring seats which are .040 inches each. Hi Oz.....You were absolutely right.....it's the perfect bore to stroke ratio. Leave it to me to question Nissan....in 1975, they lengthened the stroke for more CID.....however, for driveabilty, I find this motor "just what the doctor ordered" BTW, does anyone with an L28 car know what your redline is on the tach for the stock L28? I broke one at 7500 last week....spun a bearing.

Zup....I have no idea.....the car was an automatic (I changed it to manual). It's a single point distributor however and I don't notice any difference regards to the way it drives versus my other manual cars. The wires to the distributor end up in the same place as my other cars, so I don't see how it could affect timing. I'm guessing it's a relay for the A/C which I removed......since I know bat**** about electrical stuff, I'd refer to our resident electrical genius (SteveJ) even if he did go to Vandy!

Sorry Steve...none yet......My friend is moving his dyno to his new warehouse.....I've been bugging him, but It'll have to wait.....the car is at the restoration shop now anyway......my guess is not as much as the longer stroke motor, but who knows. The bore to stroke ratio is nicer on this motor, and it's more fun to drive.

I liked the new engine so much, I'm going to do it again. I just bought this F54 block......I'll put an L24 crank and rods in the L28 block.....again,I'll use the shaved and shimmed P79 head built by Z Doc in Roanoke, Virginia along with .040 over flat top L28 pistons (ITM).

Correct

Originals are painted....

No doubt.....sorry you couldn't make the show in Wilson.....you N.C. boys have some nice cars and good folks....I'm going back again next year and will take a car instead of riding with Eiji. Guy

Chuck started dissassembly today.....he's also working on a couple 356's.

Thanks Jeff.....can't leave well enough alone! This car is going to be off the charts! The interior is perfect as well as the underside. I'm not sure how long Chuck will keep her, but hopefully not as long as the 71......he's just amazing...looking forward to posting some good restoration pics. Hope you and the family are good....still waiting for you to come through Richmond. Guy

Absolutely the best combo I've built.....I'm building another one just like it right now. It is smooth as silk and extremely quick to 7000 rpm....a joy to drive!

Hi J.....Every panel on the car either has dents or some imperfections. The tailgate has screws in it from the louvers that came with the car. This car is going to be really, really nice. Trust me.....Chuck will make it perfect! Just as nice as the 71 he did for me.

Dropped the orange 72 off at my restoration guru.....pics to follow as Chuck works his magic.

Eiji at Datsunspirit.com may have several nice ones.......at least he did a couple weeks ago.

Good taste in cars......and dogs! Japanese car.....German Short Hair Pointer.....nice!

Jeff......If by chance you do remove the struts to adjust the height, might I suggest that you buy a quart of single stage 112 Lime paint and paint the wheel wells with a paint brush. You can't tell the difference between a spray job and a brush job under the wells (rough texture), and you've done such a beautiful job on the struts, brakes etc. , it would really set off your restoration. Also, IMO, Eibach springs are really cheap and give you a good ride height......why not order a set so you know where you're going to end up? Nice work!

greg Ira executive 240z at Sebring. Type this into YouTube and you can see it on its first run.....

Mike.....I also switched from State Farm to Hagerty's. My rate for Hagerty's is $1,000.00 per year for all 5. Four are insured for $25,000.00 and the fifth (71) is insured for $30,000.00. I have a friend who totaled a 65 Porsche with $57,000.00 agreed value...Hagerty's stroked the check....no problem.

It always amazes me why Z owners try to change things that work so well.....the stock point distributers work so well.....why futz with them! The only two times I can remember losing everything in a Z was when number 1, I lost a fusible link....number 2, I had a loose wire on the distributor. Zedy .....Check the crimp on your distributor connections and your fusible link...if that isn't the problem, bolt on one of those old fashioned stock distributors and see if that fixes the problem......IMO

Sounds like low compression.......do a compression check. I bent some valves once (over revved) and it wouldn't run under 2500 rpm's.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/34448-new-l-28-my-72-a.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/31001-new-l-28-goes-1970-a.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/42488-new-engine.html Hope these help......I used shaved and shimmed P79 heads in all 3 builds, also used Isky Stage III cams in each........Guy

Thanks e-trek......I have many sources for parts, from Z owners to MSA , Black Dragon etc. If you need a particular part, PM me and I'll try to help steer you to the vendor or person to best help you. I'm enjoying following your restoration thread. BTW......the orange Z should be going in for paint soon.....I'll update as Chuck starts working his magic....he's amazing. Regards.......Guy

Thanks Matt.....I just love these little cars....always have!