Ophitoxaemia

i was reading in my haynes manual about various relays that cut power to the pump. thanks for the tip. i will look around for an rx7 pump this week! -james

excellent point about vapor lock! if i want to buy a new pump, what are my cost effective options? the cheapest ive seen are about $60. do i need to get exactly 4psi? going to a bone yard in my area is hardly worth it- they want way too much money for their junk and most of them are hard to deal with. -james

i went to check the electric pump and guess what? it is missing! the hoses come out of the tank and head on up to the front of the car. -james

i cant seem to surf up a page describing what i need to do to convert to all electric. i think my 73 has both an electric and a mechanical. can you point me to the right place? thanks! -james

well, it doesnt even suck any gas into the pump, so i think its so gone its not sucking gas into the crankcase. the little flap was gunked up, so i suspect it cant suck air well at all. i am planning to take it all the car, take it apart and clean it. the rubber seal on the top part was in perfect, like new condition curiously enough. -james

um, isnt the block mounted pump mechanical? i thought there were two. i attached a hose to the one in the engine compartment and am feeding it from there. sorry, new to z's! -james

i put a hose from the inlet to the pump into a can of gas, then cranked the car.. no gas went into the tube. is this proof my pump needs a rebuild? or do i need to prime it? (i opened it up and put some gas in there). the car has been sitting for many years and all the gass has turned to brown gunk. (i replaced the rubber fuel lines and sprayed gumout into everywhere i could) -james

no problem, car just hasnt run in many years (maybe as many as 20?). just got it and the gas is all turned to goop. in fact, i can see past attempts to revive it and THAT gas has turned to goop yesterday i freed the floats which were glued into the bores with gooped gas. -james

are they really that awful? the car i have is complete and unmolested, so im inclined just to restore it to factory tune. but i dont want to waste time and money rebuilding the flat tops if they are crap. thanks, -james

thats my guess! non-running 73. -james

update: the needles were gunked/stuck in the bores... also no gas, turned to sludge and i pulled the rubber lines. im trying to find a battery that will take enough of a charge to crank it for a bit, so perhaps tomorrow it will fire up. (yah, new oil and plugs) -james

i just got a 240 with the plugs out so i just surfed this today. what i found out was all inline 6's have the same firing order: 153624 15 - too young 36 - too old 24 - just right you be the judge of what that means, but at least you wont forget now -james

im not that familiar with these things hanging off the intake. i was told they are called "carburators". need a good book. actually, ive got the flat top hitachi's, what are good options for carbs. my ITS 240z race car has a rebello motor with SU's, but maybe there are better options? -james

all good advice, thanks! mudge where are you in the bay area? here's some pics (the blue one is an ITS race car and that one RUNS!) http://thevenom.net/pics/zs/ -james

cranks but doesnt fire, spark, no fuel. has been sitting. im guessing the fuel has turned to jelly in the lines... someone suggested i disconnect all the fuel lines... i assume i need to flush them.. whats a safe way to flush them? or am i on the wrong track? when i get it ill spray some ether in there and see if it runs a little. -james

mine is a spool. works ok actually. turns ok on street tires, not well on race tires. -james

3 hours of testing in my new (old) ITS 1973 240z at thunderhill park raceway last weekend. what a fun fun car! felt like i was wearing the car like a suit by the end of the weekend. handling is wonderful. the I-6 generates like 1/8th the heat of my V8 race car, and kicked the crap out of a ton of V8 and boost powered cars on the track. what a difference being on the track with a fully sorted race car- no offs in 3 hours, definitely a record for me. -james

my 73 240z, with roll cage, fuel cell, fire system, semi-stripped and prepped to ITS specs weighs in at less than 2100 lbs. id guess you could make a street version well under 2000 without getting too crazy. lexan replacing glass is another way. (illegal for street use in most places). -james

my 240z has had two bungs welded onto two of the tubes of the long tube headers that run to two exhaust temp gauges inside the car. they appear to the the frontmost and rearmost cylinders. what are these for and how do i use them? they both register about 1400 degrees while running at 4K RPM in 4th. its a recent rebello SCCA-ITS motor- mostly stock 2.4 I6. the timing has been retarded to run on pump gas. thanks, -james

1973 240z, rebello ITS motor (mostly stock). ive swapped my race and street floats and there is a little red oil in there. how much is supposed to be in there, what type of oil is it, and how critical is it that i fuss with it? driving 200 miles today, please reply! thanks, -james

the BFG radial TA's have a VERY soft sidewall- not exactly a performance tire. (i have them on my street wheels for my autocross car). gives a soft ride though! -james

there must be some other motor that will work. ill look into it. -james

for track use, do you think the toyo proxes are better than the kumho V700 victoracer or new Ecsta V700? -james

the stuff leaking out might be synthetic. its a welded diff (spool). is it OK to use mobil 1 synthetic differential oil? 73 240Z. thanks! -james PS while im at it, how hard is it to remove the rear cover and replace the seal? ive rebuilt a couple of ford 8.8 LSD's in the cars so im familiar with the process.

there were two vents per side in the front.. one of them pointed right at the caliper where the brake line enters. now i know why! -james