Zvoiture

Purists please delete this now...... Friend of mine has a Shshshshsh-evy 383 he wants to get rid of...Totally completely BUILT to the max. Won't even start to list all the guts here...gear drive and everything is bored and forged and polished and blueprinted and honed and hardened and balanced and O-ringed and on and on and on....Includes flywheel (balanced with engine) and 850 Demon. Has about 6 hours on it. Runs and sounds unbelievable...8.5 (was built with the intention of a supercharger). Wants about 50% of investment. If you ever wanted a smallblock Chevy for your Z....here it is: at a great discount. 500 horse??? Has hardly been out of the garage--he just got 'bored' with it....big block going in. $5000 OBO. Supercharger available for $1500. In San Luis Obispo, CA. Serious only please.... ZVOITURE@aol.com steve77

I'm sorry, but you are going to find a gigantic LACK of information on extreme tuning for Z's from 1975 - 1990. At least the '75 - '83's share alot of info and specs and parts with the 240. The poor Z31 guys don't share with anyone and speed parts are pretty limited. Good luck! steve77

Hmmmm..That's a toughy...never heard of S130.com! And most Z sites just lumps them in with the First gen's (except this one)... steve77

YEah, I always found that pretty interesting too...."Hey, I just found 8 boxcars full of 3.4 R180's out behind the factory! We gotta use these things up!"..... Maybe they felt they had to go to the heavier diffy because the 280 motor was putting out SO MUCH MORE POWER THAN THE 240!!!!! That'll get'em going! steve77

Yeah, this place is REALLY international...you might be beter off talking about FUTE-BOL... steve77

2manyPosts...The Geocities site and myself must quibble a bit on those years. I have a 77 with a 200 and just dismantled a 79 with a 180. Neither of these were transplant situations. Hey, YOU were the one who sent me that link several months ago! steve77

Ahhhh...I see somebody's found www.boners.com steve77

http://www.greatoldcars.com/cgi-bin/view_ads.cgi?ad=10038&ad_template=ad_format.html&template=view_ads_brief.html steve77

If these are rear bars for 240, you have a pretty good deal and a customer here possibly--especially if they come with bracket hardware and end links. Are they leading or trailing? steve77

No problem. That's what we're here for...just bring the car to my place and I will finish it for you. Or drop the kids off so you can concentrate on the car. Your choice. steve77

Yes, inner boot is a good one! Theya rea always all cracked and ripped. My PO had drilled holes in the tunnel behind the radio for mounting or something???? He has also removed the rubber boots from the passenger firewall for wires to pass through...I put a new boot on the throttle too. It had disentigrated. steve77

Anyone catch the streetracing thing on MTV? Been showing it quite a bit lately. Pretty interesting. All about ricers, though. there is a Z in it, though steve77

You can go to ZHOME and it will direct you to a Geocities site with all the STOCK diffy's listed with years and models. That is as start. But do you have the original diffy? The 200 is a lot bigger, but without them side-by-side, you have to be pretty clear on the concept....Look at the two bolt stubs poking out the rear. If they are as fat as your thumb, it is a R200. If they are more like, say, your index finger, it is a R180. OK, I have small hands! steve77

Just the 'sale' price. No taxes, registration, smog fees, improvements or anything. Just the original car. If you don't own a Z, vote for your budget. steve77

Not I. Windows up and floor vents open is the only way to be fume free. And I have done practically everything listed above and some more and "...whittling away at it..." is a good summation. MAke sure there are sealed liners inside hatch and door panels. That one made a big difference. don't forget the Antenae drain hole....Lic. plate light shield...install the latch INSIDE a plastic bag...Make sure you have no exhaust leaks ahead of the tail...Go over the spare tire area and surrounding again...plug everything...Those two big holes at the bottom of the hatch.............................................. I no longer reek of exhaust upon arrival! I also have an open joint at the header/Y-pipe swage. It moves so much I have never had the heart to weld or clamp it. Not sure how much it causes--pretty tight fitting--and no restrictions past it. steve77

Have you guys seen this? Unbelievable funny. http://www.knology.net/~carlos/redneck.htm steve77

I have heard R180=300+ and R200=600+. Remember: HEARD! steve77

Ditto...just go look at your head. You could have practically any head made for the L-series engine. Swaps are pretty common. Look right above the front spark plug. Although it's not IDEAL, reound port headers will work on swuare port heads and I have heard vica-versa will work too... E88, E31, N42 = square port N47, P79= round port I think P90 is square too, but kinda foggy on that one.... Good luck! steve77

Splitfires???? man, I gotta get on you again! Your Z wants NGK's really bad. Go ahead, ask it. I can hear it answering all the way from here. Listen carefully. "BPR6ES. BPR6ES. BPR6ES." steve77

Avoid at all costs the MSA mirrors. While ordering, I spoke with my rep on the phone and questioned him specifically: "Are these crappy mirrors? Will they vibrate around? Will they get loose? Are the mounts BS?" He assured me they were of quality mettle. REALITY: these are equal to IF NOT CHAPER THAN the $h1t you can buy at Kragen or whatever... Miserable, useless, junk mirrors. steve77

Ok, ditto and.... Number 1: Your car is WAAAAAY too mature to be dragging a stupid punk in a Prelude. Learn discretion, man. Number 2: Here's your real problem: "as i hit 2nd at 3500 rpms. " What's this 3500 crap????? Your Z wants to hit 2nd at about 5200! You should be doing 40 when you hit 2nd! steve77

Isn't the diffy you are looking for the R190? Wouldn't any R190 be a fairly easy swap into a Z--at least not any harder than converting from 180 to 200? steve77