WingZr0

Yeah DRECO Represent YO!, Way Ta Go ! ! ! :rambo: "Clap CLAP CLAP CLAP ! " ~Z~

Ahh, that might be it. Battery is from 2004 and was left with the inigtion switch in the ON position by mistake for a day or two while it was sitting waiting for parts to come. Battery was so low the Rally Clock was stuck making a whiny noise and nothing would light up or make a sound when I tried to start the car. The wire you mention is a Black one like in the diagram so it may be time for that battery to go which is something I been wanting to do. Never knew it was that bad though. My pal Miguel (who spotted the smoke) did mention it could be to much charge from revving the gas could be it. But he, like me, didn't know anything about the low battery and alternator thing. Learned something new I guess, Now off to Sears I go (another excuse to hit on the receptionist ) ~Z~

Heloo. My 1977 280Z has a fusible link that keeps smoking like it's trying to catch fire! When I first got the Z it had no fusible link covers on either pair of links. Anyhow when I bought new Fusible link covers the rightside (outer most) link in the front box started smoking with the cover on it. The cover also had a melted hole on the top where the link was in contact physically. So I bought new MSA links ,which are shorter and don't touch the covers, and replaced the old ones and new covers (again) as well. Yesterday I gave my car a jump cause of a dead battery then 5 minutes after letting it run on it's own the same Fusible Link started to smoke AGAIN :hurt: Turning off the engine I took the covers off and the smoke started to go way leading me to believe it has something to do with the covers because last time this happend the car was still running when I took the covers off and the smoke stoped. The wire on the link is not burned through all the way but the rubber linning is burnt crispy. What's going on here? Is there a bad fuse connection, overcharging, power surge, fuse or what? Thaynx for any help guys ~Z~

Be sure you get the right ones ! ! ! ! Which ever style you like in the end.... The Rims in the 1st photo you posted have circles in the center and has Spokes that arch smoothly all the way to the edge just like the pics in post #23 and #25 (seen below). Where as the ones in Friar-Tuck's photo have spokes which stop at a Lip Ring on the edge of the rim with no circle in the middle (also seen below). Also note how the Spokes extend slightly out from center then cut sharply at an angle to the outside of the rim. Just some differences I thought you should kno ~Z~

Sic Absolutly friggin Sic Wonderful job! Thats you huh, Are you playin the new Halo 3 in there? HAHA

Cool YO and Fo SHO!

I think those Bums dumped it in the Gas Tank Want to install an inline Filter between the Pump and Tank but not sure where to put it or what kind to use. I got a see through style from WalMart but its 4 inches long and short of, well "bulky". Haven't started the car yet since the install. Checked my Fuel Filter in the Engine Bay to see if it was good and more Rust colored gas feel out the bottom of it. But when I checked last time it came out clear and also was clear when I drained the Gas Tank with 2 1/2 gallons in it. Felt around in the tank with a hay straw through the drain plug and still no rust I'll suck that oil out of the Dizzy ASAP today for sure. That might of been my hesitation problem. I wouldn't of known this if I didn't have to remove it to replace my Thermostat Housing block (which never had a Thermostat to begin with):dead: Either someone had enemies (well the car was keyed) or incompetent mantinace was in order :mad:

Thyanx Bro. I have a rubber O-ring in there but I don't know if it's good or not as theres other things I'm finding that makes me think a P.O. had enemies :mad: For instance, I changed my fuel pump and was knocking the old one on the ground to get the excess fuel out and ROCKS STARTED FALLING OUT ! :mad::mad::mad: Lots and Lots of ROCKS ! ~Z~

YO! I tried search function and kind of lost on this. I removed the Distributor Cap on my 1977 280Z and found all was OK and it was in like new condition. But when I pulled the Distributor itself out of the hole thingy it sits in I found there was some kind of water inside about Half a Shot Glass worth. Is this supposed to be there as some kind of Lubricating stuff or should I pull that fluid out ASAP. It seems kind of darkish clear and filmy and looks like motor oil on your fingers. Thyanx for any replies ~Z~

Heh fellas, I don't know if this is of any help for ya, http://www.datrats.com.au/OS%20GIKEN%20ENGINES.htm

They even came in 10 inch width, 5 lug on this one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/One-15-X-10-Finned-Style-Gold-Western-Aluminum-Wheel_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43955QQihZ017QQitemZ270151597830QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Also Western made some Watanabe knock offs :rambo: quote~"(4) 15 x 7, 5 lug, (unilug) 4 3/4 and 5 inch bolt pattern, 4 inch offset Wheels. These wheels on the back are stamped "Western 15 x 7". They are 10 bar wheels. This is a RARE set of old style Nostalgic Wheels." http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RAT-ROD-RARE-Western-15-x-7-Aluminum-Wheels-4_W0QQitemZ290164357828QQihZ019QQcategoryZ140747QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem ~Z~

NOOOOOOOOOOOO ! Sold out....?.... I was saving for those. :tapemouth Heh Darbji, did you know the Dukes of Hazzard Vector rims came in 4 bolt style (4x114.3). If I recal I saw a set on Ebay some where and they were correct 10 spokers just in case you like those "Duke Boys" . I don't see a problem DeesZ with 5.5" width rim for the tires. Come to think of it I don't know width of mine but was told they are inset rims. My rims are Per Spec also known as Performance Specialties and member Goose52 in SoCal hipped me to 'em saying they were dealer installed on his Z. My friend Shawn who works at the machine shop which rebuilt my engine in the past said he used to see them on 240z and 260z's as a dealer installed option aswell (around this area anyway). But to see them on a 280z he said was cool Heres a couple links to some talks on 215/60/R14 availibilty and also to what size rims of Per Spec I might have for comparision for you, I believe they are 5.5" width though. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27883&highlight=215%2F60%2F14 and http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24972 ~Z~

I suppose so. Everytime I go by one of those MPH Rader signs in a School Zone, which shows how fast your going, the Rader speed and the Speedo seam to match up 215/60/R14's are hard to find in H rated speed which is good up to 138MPH but you can find them in S and T rated easy though. Seems like 225/60/14 is more popular which is the size I going to use on the rears. Here Is what Goodyear 215/60/14 looks like on the front of my Z which are no longer made by them. The rears are 215/70/14 and look horrible, tall and flat walled :sick: http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u280/Wingzr0/WingZr0s%20Ride/100_2273.1.jpg?t=1184279500 ~Z~

1977 280Z named RUBY HLS30-360104 ~Z~

Heh Max you better get some Fusible Link Covers, the rainy season's coming. Especially if you have hood vents :ninja:

215/60/R14 :laugh: 76Datsun280z, Nice center caps there Bro. ~Z~

Understandable, so far I've been gaffled out of a houndred dollors myself. Patches, Anime Cells, Car Manuals.... Yep it seems like thats what this muffler is though as described by you and Arne. Heres a link to another one of these mufflers they're selling and of one of the Exhaust Headers as well. So far seems to be good stuff I guess, can't wait to see what it sounds like :rambo: http://cgi.ebay.com/Chrome-Exhaust-Muffler-System-Nissan-Datsun-280Z-75-78_W0QQitemZ300155183725QQihZ020QQcategoryZ33630QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/Exhaust-Header-Nissan-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-70-76-NEW_W0QQitemZ300153884663QQihZ020QQcategoryZ33631QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem ~Z~

I just sent you a PM with the tracking number. Expected arrival date is the 28th (tommorow) via FedEx ground delievery. ~Z~

Just so you know, the Westerns are 30 spokers

Sound about the right thing to do. I got torque wrench for about 30 bucks, kinda generic though but it does the job. Make sure you have all the right suckets though in Millimeters befor you take trhe head though. Lord knows how many times I had to go to the parts store to another socket for the right size of bolt :rambo: Pretty much I'm making my troll set as go :cheeky: I'm tossing my Head in the garbage though and going with an HKS Steel racing headgasket from MSA I hope. Because the rubber head gasket on there now is starting to leak in areas it didn't before, problely from the over heating. As long as the head, which is fixable, hasn't warpped. Still have to replace my Dizzy and Cap but it sounds like thats the only thing you have to do to get back on track If you have to pull head after that for some reason make sure you have ALL the tools for the job though or else you'll be at NAPA Auto more times than a Starbucks lunch break

Helloo Not sure if any ones heard of this but I bought this Muffler System off EBAY today and from what I can tell it looks like a ANSA but I believe they call it a Trimill system or something. Does Trimill makes sense to any of you? I'm trying to determin what brand this is at least. It's 2 inch diameter set, comes with muffler with attached resonnator chrome tip and what seems like most of the exhaust line leading to the exhaust manifold. Not sure if this is New Old Stock NOS, or just plain New. Here goes a photo and a link to the auction page. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=020&viewitem=&item=300152518053&rd=1

HA HA, at least you running on 6 cylnders I've changed Plugs to NGK, plug wires. Now since Ruby's been sitting, Fuel Pump, Steering Rack Bushings to MSA Polyurethanes and now thermo housing. She runs smooth then starts running rough at 3500 RPM's. Valves still need adjusting and such but at least I'm doing the work I can in the mean time on my own. Trying to buy a new head since #6 FI Port is clogged dead solid leading me to believe theres more problems with my head than I relize so far. Yeah, those P.O.'s messed my Ruby up :mad: Had a look inside my Distributer, since I had to take it off to get to the thermo housing bolts, and saw there was some kind of water inside the part where the Dizzy sits into. I'm not sure if this is supposed to be some kind of lubricating fluid but I'm doing a search function now to find out. Anyhow I'm not sure which way or what part to Advance and Retard but I know the anwser to which direction is in the search function, I just forgot it though :cheeky: :stupid: ~Z~

It's been suggested you get a 180f thermostAt like me. I just replaced my entire thermostat housing today and boy what a fun that was My '77 280z was doing the same thing as your Z and was Red Linning at 250f in 10 minutes flat. When I took off the thermo housing I found there was no thermostat inside thanks to a P.O. :mad: Anyhow I'm back flushing my Radi/coolant system in 2 days when the sealent dries and see how she runs then. I'll update and let you know the results :rambo: ~Z~

Right you are Scrap the car, if that G nose was legit I would've jump all on it for that price

Thyanx all for the lesson I say go with the easiest first Jimmy and build the NA version then build the Force induction 2nd if that makes since. It sounds like it would be quicker to make the NA if you don't have to make the valves and stuff also. Forced Induction sounds like theres tons of possiblities you can opt out for that one though for all kinds of combinations and HP Just my thoughts ~Z~