BRE-240Z

Unscrew the drain plug, and let the fuel run out into another container. Then you'll be able to remove or 'drop' the tank and see exactly where the problem originates. There is a lot of information on this site about how to drop a Z's fuel tank, so using the search tool will give you a lot of info on how to do this safely and easily. Having a gunked-up or rusted out fuel tank is a very common issue with Z cars.

I don't work for Zero Rust, Bruce does. But it's good stuff. Read....... Zero Rust is easy to use and can be applied over fully or marginally prepared surfaces. Sandblasting is not a requirement and top coating is completely optional. http://www.zerorust.com/

Was the fuel originating at the drain plug, or is that just where it was dripping from? I'm guessing if the whole side of the tank is wet, it's coming from somewhere else, right? Just dripping from the plug because that's the lowest point on the tank? A few members have had some success in sealing tanks, even ones with small pinholes, but you will probably want to drop the tank and evaluate it before you decide what to do. Either way, be very careful...working with a fuel tank can be dangerous business.

I prefer Zero Rust, if only because POR15 kills you if you breathe it...... Well, eventually. Seriously, I've used quite a bit of Zero Rust in my time and it is good stuff.

I agree, don't plug it. The hose that you need is large on one end, and small on the other. Readily available from any parts house, Motorsport, Courtesy, whatever. It runs directly between the tube in the block that you described and the PCV valve on the balance tube.

Paul, on the early 240Z this braided hose runs from the block to the PCV valve on the balance tube. See the braided hose in the dead center of the attached photo?

That sounds like the PCV tube to me. Do you have a photo?

Hi Brooks....I just had this done a few weeks back. Old pan zipped out, old frame rail removed (or more likely it fell off), new pan welded in, new frame rail installed..... I ended up paying a shade under $400 to have this done, but I should mention that the pan was coated top and bottom, at the shop, with POR-15. If you wanted to save a couple of bucks, you could do that part yourself.

So, my friend, take some Advil and get cracking.... It's hard to do, but I think I would make the same decision. Parting it out isn't going to be fun, but at the end of it you will be able to point towards a spreadsheet and show the wife that you recovered some money that was otherwise wrapped up in a rusting hulk. That will make her happy.....betcha! Now the question is, eBay or private classifieds....either way, I envy you not! It's going to be a hassle but in the end it will be worth it. Too bad you don't need the driver's side pan....if that had been the case, I could probably have helped you out since I have an extra. But the passenger side seems to be the one that always goes......

If you didn't have the red Z, there'd be no question. The yellow Z would be what you had to work with, the repairs it needs are not all that bad, and you'd fix the car. But having the red Z makes the yellow Z entirely superfluous. It's nice on an emotional level to say 'fix the car!' but the reality is that the yellow car is just a source of funds at this point. What brings the biggest return? That's the only question. Is it worth more as parts? Or as a complete car, minus what it takes to fix up? The problem, of course, that the 'what it takes to fix up' part of the equation is likely to be a significant chunk of change. My guess is that you're better off parting the car.

Thanks, Mark, for the tip. I've been holding onto these OEM Nissan door gaskets for some time now (they're still available through the dealer, but you have to find one that will order them for you). The shop that I'm using is the same place that welded in my floor pans a few weeks back. The shop is here in Asheville. The owner normally restores VW's, but he's extremely meticulous and the paint jobs that he's done (at least the ones that I've seen) look fantastic. If you want his contact info, PM me and I'll shoot it over to you. And yeah, I'm going back to 904 White (which actually seems to be more of an ivory, but anyway).....

Hello, My '71 240Z is finally headed into the paint shop. I know that I'm going to need a windshield gasket and a rear hatch glass gasket, and I'm trying to find the most economic way of accomplishing this, while still doing it right (I have genuine Nissan door seals and welting ready to install after the car comes back, so door seals and fitment won't be an issue). So I have two questions.....first, are the aftermarket front and rear glass gaskets that are available (inexpensively) through Black Dragon good quality replacements for the OEM gasket, or should I pony up the extra cash for the Nissan gaskets? Second, what other gaskets will I need? Inner hatch gasket and outer hatch gaskets are a given. What's the best place to obtain these items? How is the fit? Tail light gaskets? Best vendor? I'm sure a number of you have been down this road a time or two, and I'm really hoping to learn from your experiences. Is there anything else that I should be doing or considering while I'm removing bumpers, etc? All of the emblems, rear hatch lock, radio antenna, side marker lights, etc etc are being pulled right now.....but any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Right. Obviously the head wasn't built for performance on the Z-series engines. I don't know of any application for that head....the block on the Z-series motors was the desirable piece. The first time I read his post, I missed the part about the 'hole in the block'. I guess the block is shot, in that event. In which case I can't imagine a use for the motor other than as a boat anchor. The KA is a terrific motor in a 510, since you mentioned it. A friend of mine has one in his car. You don't get quite the performance that you'll get from a VG, mind you, but it's still very, very good.....

I had a Frankenmotor (Z22 block, L-16 head) in a 510 that I once owned. The guys in the 510 community have worked out the recipe, if you want to go that route...they're not difficult to assemble. The LZ22 type engines are extremely torquey, so they tend to be worth the effort. One link to some info about the NAPS-Z and L-series head combo is here: http://www.srpl.com/~robert/2007/Jason_Gray.htm

Mispronouncing and misspelling words is a regional and/or educational thing. People who haven't read tend to say words like 'eckscape' because they've never read the word or paid attention to the way that it's spelled. My ex-wife used to use that word, and it drove me wacky. The other element in play here, as Nissanman mentioned, is the whole 'text messaging' generation. They are so accustomed to communicating with each other in abbreviated fashion that a) they don't know - or care - how to spell and they think that they can communicate with everyone using the same methodology. Maybe I'm wrong, but I see it as another step in the 'dumbing down' of a whole generation. I work as a systems administrator for a publishing company, so I'm not anti-technology, either. Another reason to like the Z, right? No computer, no voice telling you what to do, no idiot lights telling you it's time for maintenance. You can change the oil and filters and actually maintain your own car without feeling like you have to take it apart first....and driving it is a much more visceral thrill than you will get in any modern vehicle. And while there is a cell phone in the glove box, don't call me while I'm driving my Z, because I will not answer.......

Just a guess, but I would imagine that sometime during the last year and a half, he's managed to solve this computer problem......

I did mine using a cheap variant of this method also. Parked the car outside on a cold day, then went out and got to work with a hammer and a chisel. No dry ice was required. I have never tried the 'heat gun' method, but the cold therapy treatment worked well for me.....

Looks like he's got a decent amount of clearance. I've got those K&N filters on my car, too, although I used TWM velocity stacks. The metal cover to the air filter can't come any closer to the horn than the bottom of the threads on that support rod. He looks like he might even have more clearance than I do......

Going to put some tires like this on it, too?

Ah, gotcha. I thought it looked familiar. I grew up in DeLand, which is on the east side, not too far from Orlando. Nice Z!

I agree. I must be getting old, too, because seeing the abbreviation ' L O L ' on every forum thread makes me want to smack somebody.

Looks like Central Florida to me.......is it?

You could try to sell it at that price..... Same thing with this seller; he can list the car for whatever price he likes. It's just not likely to sell at the price he's asking. Why does every thread lately have to be about this car?

I have only sold one vehicle on eBay - a hot 510 - and have never bought a vehicle on eBay. Honestly, the experience of selling a vehicle on eBay was a mixed bag. There was a lot of interest in the car, and the price ended up at a level that I was comfortable with. Then the winning bidder flaked. "Oh, I just found out that I am really sick, the doctor thinks it's a bad idea for me to take on any projects", etc. You know, the typical BS. I relisted and the sale went almost as high as the first auction, buyer came through, etc. So the relist was fine. But the stress associated with the first auction left a bad taste in my mouth. So I'm not afraid of selling a car (or of buying one, as long as someone I trust checks it out first), but you have to know the risks going in. Member bkelly's experience is not unusual at all, unfortunately......

I've been buying and selling on eBay for over ten years now, and the best advice that I can give anyone is to pay attention to buyer and seller feedback. If someone has a 95% feedback score or less, there's a reason for that and it might be a good idea to investigate. The other thing would be to communicate your desires and intentions to both buyers and to sellers (but especially when you're the seller). When someone buys something from you and pays for it, email them to let them know that payment was received, and send them a tracking number if you have one. Keeps everybody happy. There are scammers out there, so be aware of that. If something sounds odd, it probably sounds that way for a reason....just listen to your instincts.