RB30-ZED

Well the 2005 Zed Nationals have now been and gone, but not forgotten. The guys from the Sydney Zed Club organized a fantastic weekend. The concourse had a great setting in Goulburn and the turn out of Zeds was great to see with a big turn out of very well presented 240's. The track day was also extremely well organized and a great fun day, even though oil surge braking in to turn two cost me a big end or two, and a Tilt tray to take my Zed home early. Thanks too the Queensland club guys that made me feel at home at the presentation dinner, thanks very much. Steven

Well its getting closer to the Nationals with only three weeks to go. I drove down to Wakefield last Thursday for a run to see what times I could do and all I can say is I hope Brett240 was joking about 1:11.00 the best I could manage was 1:16.45. The Zed was under steering a little and the pads need more bite, so im working on that now, and hopping to improve a little. I see the lap records are: Driver: Peter Lang SB 1973 Datsun 240Z 20/08/2000 1:11.5700 Driver: Chris Gray SC 1971 Datsun 240Z 20/08/2000 1:13.8800 Do the Historic guys run slicks for those times ???? So what times has any one else managed, or is it a secret till the Sunday :classic: Steven

Well I don't run standard suspension so I cant comment on that, only to say in my car it turns in and changes direction beautifully. I run shortened struts and koni inserts with 300lb Kings springs on adjustable platforms, and rose jointed control arms with the pivot point moved up 30mm. I spent a lot of time to get the engine as low and as far back as I could. Just let me know if your in the area (hour south of Sydney) i'll make sure its got fuel in it for you. Also if you think about it $700 for the twincam 4 vale head with VVT is cheap , it would cost you that to inprove the RB30E single cams head flow with valves and cam. Steven

I think I have to jump in to this post, as I have been using a RB30DE for a couple of years now. There is some truth in this, but its the breathing that has the most effect on the usable rev range of this engine. There are good cams available to suit the single cam head. I took the path of using the RB25DE head, which cost me $450 AU. The head has VVT and uses standard 240deg 7.8mm lift cams, and I can tell you it runs up to 7100rpm at every club day and is still pulling strongly all the way. The block has a full main bearing cradle and at 85mm's stroke is shorter than most 2ltr 4 cylinder engines. Sorry cant say, but the block is not heavy, if you go for the twin cam head then it is a bit heavier, but the total weight of my car is 1120kg (2470lb) so its no penalty. Oh yes id argue that :classic: Have you seen this G-Tec of my RB30DE compared to a standard RB25DET ( I drove both cars the same way on the same road on the same day. Power, RB30DE is black & RB25DET is red 1/4 mile Maybe in historic, but for club competition its 2001cc-3000cc so 2.4 2.6 2.8 3.0 its all in the one class. Now I know you mean that in a nice way Gav, but tell me where the "Bastardizing" is here! :classic: Bastardized ? If you had the chance to drive my car (happy to give any Zed owner a drive any time) you would be surprised with the torque the engine has from 1500rpm right up to 7000rpm and how much quieter the RB is in comparison to the L28 it replaced. Id recommend a RB of any type if your able to do the work your self. Steven

Ah yes i see, that some one how missed it must have been me, my computor died about 3 weeks ago and i just got it running again. Anything else important ive missed? Steven

You have to see this video of this mini in action. Mini video Steven

If I was spending wisely, id have more investment properties and would be looking at a secure retirement in the future,,,,Na enjoy it while you can I say. Im looking at building a nice little bike engine powered hillclimb car next, you know spend $20000 and sell it for $10000, should be fun. Drysdale-Honda OR ard1000 Steven

Well after years of trying to pretend that it didn't really cost me to much, I have to own up to the fact that ive spent (All in Aust dollars. $1AU=70centsUS) $8500 Body and paint and $16000 on suspension, brakes, engine, driveline, engine management,electrical, seats, trim ect ect, So it looks like $24500 at least ($17500US) and as im a motor mechanic there is no labour charge, exept for body and paint. Steven

I walked down to the garage on morning to to take her for a driving lesson and she had her L-Plates stuck on my Zed,,,,,,, In your dreams i said. Steven

Hi, Im selling my Lexus V8 SC400 coupe, if you know anyone in NSW that might be interested id be happy to talk to them. Lexus photos and info Thanks Steven

I dont think we need to protect the gallery. It also stops you cutting and pasting text and web address to photo replys.

Yes, but its only to keep water out from behind the booster to stop it from leaking in to the drivers floor and prevent rust. Steven

Thought I would share some G-Tec screen shots and explain them to those that haven't used a G-Tec meter. The first screen shot is a comparison of horse power between a RB25DET(2500cc DOHC injected turbo) found in the R33 Skyline and the engine in my 240Z which is a hybrid RB30DE(3000cc DOHC injected) naturally aspirated. The first thing you need to know about G-Tec is that it measures Horse power and torque by measuring G force over time, this gives it a torque figure. It then uses rpm which it picks up from the alternator output noise to work out horse power. But the horse power shown is the actual power used to accelerate the car, so it will look lower than a dyno print out because you have used H.P. to over come wind and rolling resistance which is a good way to see if Aero mods have worked or not. The only thing to remember is to input the correct weight for the car with driver or the figures will sit high or low. So if you had the same engine in a small coupe and a large van of the same weight the reading on G-Tec will show a lower output from the van as it lost more to aero losses than the coupe, which would as expected out run the van. To get a rough idea of rear wheel HP you could multiply the G-Tec output by 20% and the again by 20% for engine HP. But in reality what it shows on the G-Tec is what you have to use anyway you look at it. To do a power run on G-Tec you start in first change in to second straight away and put your foot down to the redline, so times shown on the screen shot are of no importance.H.P. comparison RB30DE V RB25DET The last screen shot is a 1/4 Mile run between the two cars. But if you look closely you can see the Zed was off the throttle before the end as room was running out :cheeky: 1/4 Mile Zed, Lexus SC400 and Skyline If anyone has a G-Tec Pro Comp we could post files for comparison. Steven

"Do unto others as you would have them do unto you" Rules are rule and laws are laws, but in the end this is a meeting place for people how love there Zeds, and even though having a whine is part of life it shouldn't be the focus of the club. Just treat other people and their property as you would wish them to treat you. Steven

The early Zeds use Japanese licensed copy of Bosch L-Jetronic, this system runs simultaneous injection, so they all inject the same amount at the same time, so mixing the injector plugs makes no difference. If you can check the fuel pressure you will be able to eliminate faults related to fuel pressure or ECU. Steven

No the hose from the air cleaner to the AFM. It should close all the way, but you should swing it open fully by pushing it open with your finger to make sure the air door/flap doesn't stick, as is very common for that type of load sensor. No, the thermotime switch only has control of the cold start injector and only for a max of 3-4sec with cold coolant. Im talking about the coolant temp sensor for the ECU, not to be confused with the sensor that runs the dash temp gauge. Its the ECU's temp sensor that has control over Air Fuel Ratio as a function of coolant temp. Its a negative temperature coefficient sensor, so if its got a bad connection or isn't plugged in to the harness, the ECU will think its cold and run very rich. Can be, as its this vacuum signal that keeps the fuel pressure at a constant above manifold vacuum. No I didn't as this is only fixing a symptom not a couse. The only time this modification can be of use is if the operating parameters of the engine change, eg a new cam ect. This EFI system uses a switch type TPS, it should be set with is idle contacts closed at idle, the second switch in this unit will then open about 80% throttle to richen up the AFR from 14.7:1 to around 12.5:1. Incorrect adjustment will course poor idle, but it sounds like the lack of power my be elsewhere. Steven

Firstly your car maybe running rich because it thinks its cold, check the coolant temp sensor for a bad connection and operation. Secondly if your car has a vane type air flow meter take the inlet hose off and check that the flap opens and closes with out sticking, as a back fire can bend the air door and they will stick in an open position which will give more fuel. And last but not least get hold of a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure by teeing in to the fuel line from the pump and the fuel rail , should be about 30psi running with the vacuum hose connected to the regulator and about 35psi with it off. Steven

Thanks moyest Your apology is warmly accepted, just add my name to my photos, no hard feelings. Id also like to say that I didn't think the post would become so discussed and that I feel the posts have been more of an interest in the copyright issue and hope you haven't taken it to personally. Steven

Thanks Mike, I think i was over it by the second or third post, but this thread seems to have been on some peoples minds for a while. I will just have to top my gallery up with some new pics.

Well that might be as we are both on the other side of the wolrd we have been sleeping peacefully while you guys are getting in to it

WOW looks like I opened a can of worms with this thread, id just like to make the point that I don't mind people copying my photos at all,,, but I just thought that if other people start making comment about a photo I have taken of my own car, that the pic should have a credit to the cars owner or he guy who took the picture. It just rubs me the wrong way to see some one else getting praise for two years of my work. Plus it just fills the Gallery with copies of the same photo. Steven