Leaderboard

Problem has been solved. First, I thank you all for your help. You group of guys are what keep me wrenching on a car that's 2 years younger than myself. Secondly, I'm an idiot. I'm not generally seen as an idiot, I hope, but here's what happened: When I had the radiator out and was flushing the inside with Muratic acid/water, I pushed large corks into the inlet and outlet so I could really shake/rattle, and roll that stuff through the tubes inside. (you already know where this is going) After that, I decided to paint it before sticking it back in. Apparently, I didn't see the cork in the bottom outlet since it had a fresh coat of paint on it. How's that for an oversight? No harm done, thankfully. Oh, and my Temp gauge settled under the 1/2 mark afterward.

Participants in the project are as unlikely as the subject matter, but it all seems to come together very well! http://www.speedhunters.com/2017/11/gas-monkey-garage-goes-jdm/

I'm tempted to go drop the pump on my seemingly all original 76 short block. It's just sitting there wasting space anyway.

You're doing things right

prelim test with ZH provided 3rd/bearing/ring are looking promising. I did a quick test with the adapter plate in the vice, the knock I heard with the stethoscope was gone. I still have to install the counter shaft bearing and then re install in the housings but maybe this will do it. I sure hope, the only other thing that was suspect was a bent output shaft. I assumed holding it steady will spinning the gears was a valid test, but I may be wrong about that. If this last attempt fails the plan will be to tear down completely and start with a exam of the output shaft using some V blocks and a dial indicator. Thanks again to ZH!!

BTW, 'I do this all the time', and, 'I don't understand why it's such a big deal' are not acceptable responses.

Yeah, right. Everything that could suck away my spare time happened since my last post, but she's done, on the road again! Took it for a spin today and everything feels good, I guess I'll have to observe some kind of a break in period. I got such a smoking deal on this new toy I couldn't pass it up, not sure what I'm going to do with it just yet, but I'm sure it will end up in a Z at some point. This is an S54 M engine 2001 - 2006, the last of the big straight sixes from bmw before they started slapping turbos on everything. 3.2L, cast iron block, aluminum head, DOHC, 24 valve, variable valve timing, 10.5:1 compression, 8000 rpm red line, without the cats 343hp without any tweaks. Best of all it is 3.5" shorter than the S38 engine and has a rear mounted sump so installation would be a breeze compared to the S38. It came with a 6 speed manual trans, engine wiring harness and ECU. Something to play with this winter

In your most recent photos, one (or perhaps both) of your set of frame repair sections has stitch welds running full length along the inside of the long folds. Why? Did you fit a doubler piece inside for extra strength? BTW, I admire your efforts in constructing these repair pieces from scratch and without the benefit of having a sheet-metal brake in your shop. That's a pretty nice result achieved from forming your bends over the jaws of a mechanic's vise!