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So you gained a nice sized deck, cool. So am I to understand those are homemade burgers? I love burgers! Took wife on a week cruise to the Caribbean and they had this joint called "Guys Burgers" (Guy Fieri owned) on the ship and I ate there for lunch like 5 times!

"PPG Industries’ (NYSE:PPG) automotive glass and services business, which is under contract to be sold to a new company being formed by Kohlberg & Co., LLC, Mount Kisco, N.Y., and PPG, will begin using the name “Pittsburgh Glass Works,” effective Aug. 1, 2008. The newly-formed business will continue using the name following closure of the transaction with Kohlberg & Co. that is expected in the third quarter of this year." "PITTSBURGH, OCTOBER 2, 2008With the completion of the sale of PPG Industries’ (NYSE:PPG) automotive glass and services business, Pittsburgh Glass Works officially launched business operations, yesterday, October 1, 2008. Affiliates of Kohlberg & Company will own 60 percent and PPG will retain approximately 40 percent of equity share in Pittsburgh Glass Works." " About Pittsburgh Glass WorksPittsburgh Glass Works (PGW) supplies automotive OEM windshields, rear and side windows, sunroofs and assemblies for auto and truck manufacturers, and it supplies and distributes replacement automotive glass products for use in the aftermarket. It also provides insurance claims services through its LYNX Services subsidiary, glass management software and internet marketing services through its GTS subsidiary, and e-business solutions through its GLAXIS offering. Automotive glass products are manufactured and fabricated in nine North American plants located in Berea, Ky.; Creighton, Meadville and Tipton, Pa.; Crestline Ohio; Evansville, Ind.; Evart, Mich.; and Hawkesbury and Oshawa, Ont., Canada. In addition, nine satellite parts assembly plants are located throughout North America, and two LYNX Services claims management call centers in Ft. Myers, Fla. and Paducah, Ky. Combined, the businesses employ approximately 4,400 people." " About Kohlberg & Co., LLC Kohlberg & Company, LLC is a leading U.S. private equity firm which acquires "middle market" companies. Since 1987, the firm has organized six private equity funds, through which it has raised $3.7" In other words, the windshields you have are manufactured by what used to be PPG Industries' automotive glass division. Same design/technology (presumably), same manufacturing facilities (USA), new ownership/name/management. PGW does, indeed, have operations in Poland, but I doubt that the Z windshields come from that location.

Get rid of the points distributor, ZX E12-80 electronic ignition was good for me. Choke lever holder mounted to the tunnel instead of the console makes a much firmer movement of the the choke. Clean and seal the fuel tank, replace all the hoses too.

Turning the engine by hand will not tell you much about ring seal. The air leaks past the rings too fast to get a usefull pressure reading at that speed. A leakdown test is better but if the piston goes to the bottom it can be misleading since the bore is not worn much at the bottom. You might be just as well off to install the engine and run it. It seems the question is: Would you rather install a tired motor only to take it out again or tear down a good one only to find out it is ok?

Upgraded wiring harnesses for headlights and parking lights. Updated fuse block, too, if your OE unit is 'toasted'. Follow with upgraded headlights.

1. You need to unscrew and remove the black damper caps, they're thumb tight and slide out with a damper-plunger on the end, they may be wet with oil, FYI. 2. Unscrew the 3 or 4 screws that hold the dome down and lift it straight up. this will uncover the piston and piston return spring. 3. Remove the spring (it just lifts out) 4. Very carefully lift the piston straight up, the needle is attached to the bottom, so lift straight up until it is free. The centre of the piston where the damper came out of may be FULL OF OIL, so be careful not to tip it by accident. There may also be a plastic washer that sits below the spring, so don't lose that. Those are your needles. If you decide to remove them, note that there is a shoulder at the thick end that isn't beveled. That shoulder must be flush with the lower area of the piston, not the notched out groove it's mounted in. For example, when re-seating this needle it would be wise to turn your jet adjustment nut all the way up so the top of the jet nozzle is flush with the jet sleeve. Slide the needle into the piston, but not all the way, tighten the needle screw enough you can still move the needle into the piston without much force, hold the bottom of the jet asembly UP and lower the piston into the chamber. This would seat that needle at the same height as the nozzle sits, in each carb. If anyone has anything to add or remove, please speak up as I'm new to these things.

TD - I've also got a '73. If I were you I'd do the following: - $158 - Relay upgrades for headlights http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10d06/12-4651; - $62 - Parking Light Relay Harness from MSA - which one depends on date of manufacture of your '73; - $199 - MSA fuse box (I installed mine 10+ yrs ago and have had no issues since) http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10a03/50-5010; - $130 - Upgrade to internally regulated alternator - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4068 - ~$100 - if you're still running points, do as suggested by Siteunseen, upgrade to the ZX E12-80 electronic distributor, I did this in 1998 and have had no issues since; - ~$160 - inspect & replace ball joints, tie rod ends if required - ~$100 - high performance brake pads, I've been running Hawk HP+ pads on my 240z for ten years, dusty, noisy if you don't brake hard occasionally, work good when cold but OMG do they work when warmed up! IMHO the stock brakes with upgraded pads work very well; - ~$20 - speed bleeders for front and rear brakes, can't believe it took me 24yrs to install SB's, makes bleeding brakes a simple one man job! - ~$20 - quality brake fluid to flush and bleed your brakes; - $35 - MSA Tension rod kit, http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20j/23-4190, just installed it this winter, wish I'd done it years ago - $14 - 2x Tension Rod Rubber bushings for the back side ot the MSA Tension rod kit (IMHO you don't want urethane bushings on the T/C rod mount); - $600 - replacement strut cartridges, I just installed Tokico Blues - $45 - don't forget to change the front strut bearings and rear strut spacers when you change the inserts - $45 - strut bellows to protect your shiny new strut inserts - http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1209170&parttype=7592 - $240 - lowering stiffer springs, I installed Suspension Techniques Sport Springs 15yrs ago and love the way the car handles - $230 - sway bar kit, I installed Suspension Techniques kit 15yrs ago with above springs, love my Z's handling - $720 - front and rear JDM style clean bumpers, http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=131&Itemid=118 - $70 - early 240z front bumper mounts, required to install smaller front bumper on '73 240z, '73 rear bumper mounts will work with early rear bumper Total - $2,938 + shipping, tax, etc may be close to $3,000. If you do the above, I think you'd be very pleased with the results. Let us know what you chose to do and how it turns out.