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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/11/2015 in Posts

  1. Hey all, I just got an email from Mike at Whitehead performance. He is having my restored 1971 blue on blue 240Z appraised so I can update my insurance. I don't have the report in hand yet but it's going to be valued north of $50,000!!!!! I know I wouldn't get that price in a sale, but for insurance coverage thats great news! I'll be interested to see the report, It may be time for a review of your agreed value with your insurance company! Mark
  2. I have these, highly recommended. Very, very easy install. No more having to contort yourself to find the shoulder part that unclipped from the belt part. No adjustments necessary if you're wearing a thicker jacket.
  3. rossiz, I agree its all Blue's fault, but I'm good with it. Now you need to show me the way, because I would love to do the exact same thing. Lot's of pictures please.
  4. I would think it threads on. Cutting it off and welding sounds like a bad idea. Even if you can get it welded back on; which you might not be able to do depending on what it's made out of. How are you gonna keep it from rusting? The original is plated. The new welds won't be.
  5. it's all blue's fault - he posted a link to the megajolt lite a while back and i've been obsessed with the idea ever since. i set up an MSD ignition on one of my bikes a while back, made a little pickup to trigger off the cam layshaft. it works amazing and is so clean and bulletproof, and i was able to dyno tune significant performance gains with the advance curve from a laptop. love it. i've been wanting to get rid of the spaghetti on top of the valve cover, as well as the wobbly dizzy and difficulty of playing w/the advance curve. i have no delusions about getting the kind of perfomance gains as on my bike, but it certainly won't be any worse, and i'm very concerned about dialing out any detonation since i'll often be running cheap gas. gonna go w/the LS2 coil-near-plug setup and a crank-fired ignition. megajolt lite is the current strategy. don't want to use a wasted spark eids system as the coil pack is a little clunky, the dwell is limited to half the time for direct coil and it just puts spaghetti on the other side of the engine. from what i've read, the LS2 coils make a helluva spark and come with ignightors built in so i just need to send a sequential low-volt signal to them which the megajolt should be able to do just fine. will make a bracket to mount up the LS2 coils under the heater hose using the two threaded block bosses that hold the heater hose clamps. was thinking about coil-on-plug, but they get kinda tall & spindly looking, plus in order to have enough pigtail length to pull a single plug you wind up w/more spaghetti... i've got to pick up a crank position sensor and will design an appropriate sized trigger wheel and have it water-jet cut for me at a local shop, then fab up a crank sensor mount on the front cover. then i plan to cut off the top part of the dizzy drive spindle, block off the dizy mount and enjoy the empty space around that side of the engine bay with no more coil, dizzy, etc. on the fender well. crazy, i know, but it's all blue's fault...
  6. Ordered a set of SU carbs from ZTherapy this morning. If I can run them as long as I ran the originals, they should keep me and the Z on the road until I'm 112. There's a 30 day waiting list for delivery that I hope goes by quickly. My mechanic suggested a Weber conversion kit, but I prefer to stick with SUs. Dennis
  7. Is this wired correctly? My car is working though!! Just want to be sure!
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