Posted December 10, 200321 yr comment_60242 my from bumper of my 72 wasn't bolted on the side and I wanted to take off the bumper guard so I removed it to find one of the bolts for the side had been broken off in it, I drilled it out and used a reverse tread removal bit and snaped the bit in it , I tried another bit to try to retry the process , I assume the bit is some super metal because it let anything drill into it , what do you think a machine shop a bumper shop or a welder? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/9261-any-ideals/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 10, 200321 yr comment_60244 I had the same problem. I used a cutting tourch to get it out and then tac welded a nut in place. Worked well for me.- Jeff Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/9261-any-ideals/#findComment-60244 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 10, 200321 yr comment_60246 It's hard to tell from the picture how big the broken tool is but you may be able to take a really small drill bit and drill a bunch of small holes completely around the perimeter. If you're unable to salvage the threads you can always just put a washer and loose nut on the back side. That attachment point is really just to keep the bumper ends from moving up and down; it doesn't require much strength. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/9261-any-ideals/#findComment-60246 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 11, 200321 yr comment_60252 Most taps, and bolt removers are made from super hardened steel. This is why they are so hard to drill with standard drill bits.Since they are extremely hard, they also become brittle (typically). The bolt remover may or may not have space between it and the bolt. If it does it will make this procedure easier, if it does not, it just makes it a bit harder, but it should still work.Get a HARDENED punch with a point on it. Then placing the point on the remover and aiming at an angle away from dead center, hit it hard with a hammer. (Be sure to wear safety goggles.) With a proper hit and luck you should fracture the remover. Remove what pieces you can and continue. At some point you will crack it enough to remove it.Alternatively, heat it up with a rosette torch. The heat will cause it to lose it's temper and allow you to drill it out.Hope this helps.Enrique Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/9261-any-ideals/#findComment-60252 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 11, 200321 yr Author comment_60270 thank you , gonna take it to a friend to use the torch on it , tired of it right now , so i store it out of my view in the garage til then , spent like 4-5 hours on it , thanks again Jeff Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/9261-any-ideals/#findComment-60270 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 12, 200321 yr comment_60399 I have removed these so called E Z outs before by drilling all around the edge of the bolt with a small drill likd Mike w said. Just be careful that the little drill does not hit the E Z out because it will catch and snap off also. I use an e z out as a last resort for this vary reason . For me they brake off 7o% of the time. Since I started using Kroil and or PB blaster I havent needed them. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/9261-any-ideals/#findComment-60399 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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