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Finally going back together!

Zvoiture

By Zvoiture,
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Zvoiture VeZeran

Zvoiture

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Oh... and check out my new studs. Yes, they are 1/2" (X 20 X 3")! Please don't tell Alan. He'll write me out of his will for sure...Shoot, they were 1/1,000,000th the price of Comp 60mm ones. Heck, 2many, they came from some neckcar place in Virginny (stockcarproducts.com They were wonderful).

steve77

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2ManyZs GrandMaster Z

2ManyZs

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I hope this is going to be an auto-X car and not do any road racing....or much street driving either...looks like it would be a kidney buster on the street....

Not trying to rain on your parade Steve, but a buddy of mine road raced his car with springs nearly as short and ended up riding around on the bumpstops most of the time..... only had about 2 inches of total suspsension travel....

I was always surprised that his springs never jumped off the perches.. of course, if he'd had an "off track excursion" it might have been different... :ermm:

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Zvoiture VeZeran

Zvoiture

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I think I am going to be OK. I actually think I will end up with more travel than the green 280. It has about 1.5 inches of travel in the front but never bottoms out--that I can tell.

On this new car, I have new strut assemblies that match the springs. They are BRE. the tubes are stock length, bit the perches are higher. Also the springs are 200 and 225. I haven't had this thing down with an engin in, of course, but with halved bump stops and a 2100 lb car, I think I will be ok.

I have everything sitting here for a disk conversion (except the brackets) but I have this pile of solid discs and aluminum drums and I just want to burn them up. See, I am a crappy racer, I don't use the brakes enough. But I'm learning.

steve77(and soon 73)

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HS30-H GrandMaster Z

HS30-H

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Originally posted by Zvoiture

Oh... and check out my new studs. Yes, they are 1/2" (X 20 X 3")! Please don't tell Alan. He'll write me out of his will for sure...

steve77

IMPERIAL sized studs? What on earth were you thinking of!? You are now officially OFF my Christmas card list.........

Seriously though, I can see that they make a lot of sense. You get a whole new world of wheel nuts to choose from in that size too.

Don't they do a 6 inch version? You could be like Queen Boudicca of the Iceni - rolling through the Roman army with sword blades on the wheels of her chariot. You could cut the tops off the cones on the Auto-X course. She did suffer from terrible unsprung weight problems though, and had trouble finding performance tyres for her 36-Inch twelve spokes.....................

Like 2Many I'm a little concerned about your springs jumping off the perches on full extension. I've had this happen to me and it ain't funny. Mashes up spring perches and sounds really nasty too. I've seen suspension legs wired-up to limit extension as a cure for it. Some of the later Works Z rally cars used a system like this. Hopefully you won't experience a problem but with such a short spring combined with a damper that will extend a LONG way from

where the spring is seated, you might have it happen to you.

What dampers / shock absorbers did this BRE setup originally use then?

Alan T.

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hmsports ProfiZient

hmsports

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I've seen some guys use small diameter twisted wire cable to make droop keepers (looped them around and used crimps) for their springs so they stay on the perch.

Dale Smith's E-Prod car uses them to keep the springs at the top so the caps on top that have bearings and the like for his camber adjustment don't come apart. He doesn't have to worry about the bottom because the perch is simply a flat plate without the stock style cup.

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Zvoiture VeZeran

Zvoiture

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>>>>What dampers / shock absorbers did this BRE setup originally use then<<<

Hmmm good question. I will try and find out.

So you all are saying ideally the springs should be used with a very short cartridge. Since the tubes are stock length, that would mean a very short cartridge with an extension. Or do some of the more $$$ struts have adjustable extension stop?

steve77

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Bambikiller240 GrandMaster Z

Bambikiller240

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Originally posted by Zvoiture

Couldn't work on the car at ALL last night! Someone was saying "she hadn't seen me in a couple days...." Hell, I saw her at breakfast...what's the problem?

steve77

Hey Steve, Share some of your wine with her. When she's had enough to drift off for a nap, you can sneak out to the garage for a couple of hours.

just a thought.

Carl

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Zvoiture VeZeran

Zvoiture

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Front is finished. Ready to roll. Rear suspension should be ready to come home mid week, so started on some miscellaneous tear-out in the rear half. Am thinking about a tank swap which may or not include a spare-tire-well removal. Dropped the tank and drained the gallon or so of apricot jelly (or was it orange marmalade?). Nasty. And this car was running! Found a disconnected electric fuel pump back there.... L24 that came out had a mechanical installed. Whilst dropping the tank, found another reason to swap tanks: The spider web of hoses wrapped around through the trunk and around the tank going to that 'recovery' or 'expansion' thingy in the quarter. What on earth is the function? While we are asking questions, got a couple more:

Did they BUILD the car around the filler neck/hose? Unless that thing was A LOT more flexible when new, they HAD to have welded the rear fender on with it installed.

When they balanced the driveshat at the factory, did they allow for 1/4" of undercoating being applied to one side?

FACT: R200's are a HECK of a lot easier to pull than R180's.

Is there any benefit to a rear-oriented rear sway bar? I have the option of either. The only thing I can think of is that it would make changing a diffy or driveshaft easier?

Could you safely mount a muffler UNDER a fuel tank?

My idea is to cut out the well, weld in a flat floor and install a ZX fuel tank (because it is long and flat, without the hump). Pros and cons. Center of gravity rises, but not more than installing one of the well cells. Bottom of tank will be well behind and up under the rear valence. Won't show from the rear and tons more ground clearance. Tank is larger/heavier (17 gal.) but no one says you have to FILL it. My ZX harness and gauges would be plug and play. ZX's have a top access panel in the trunk for the tank that holds the level thingy and sending unit. Very convenient.

But exhaust.... I would really like to run twice pipes out the center. Installing a flat, shallow tank up against the deck would give plenty of clearance for this, but i wanted to put a double tip muffler at the rear. It would be right under the center of the tank. Heat problem?

Starting to think about dropping the motor in. How much more difficult or easier is dropping it in with the tranny and header already on?

steve77

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Zvoiture VeZeran

Zvoiture

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So, by loosening the clamp and undoing the retainer tab, you can pull the return line out and reverse it, so the warmed fuel returning from the rail is domped out into the tank and not directly onto the pick-up. Probably not a big deal, but seemed logical...... And very simple.

steve77

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