Started by cutting out the spare tire area. Will build the cell box this weekend...

Here's a picture of the one I'm installing...

It's a rubber bladder inside of a metal case. There are foam blocks inside the bladder. The metal case helps to keep everything safe in case of an accident. If the metal case distorts or fails, the rubber bladder is supposed to keep the fuel inside. If it fails, the foam helps to keep the fuel from splashing about. ATL (Aero Tech Labs) which made my cell makes them for cars, planes and even space craft.

Yeah, I wonder how the Z would perform on some hydrogen? Might prevent people from squealing at me for removing my smog stuff. Victor.

By the look on your face Rick, I think you were having just a little too much fun with that torch....

Usually the equation:

Vehicle + Beer + Torch = Darwin Award Winner!

Luckily I did remember to remove the fuel tank first :classic:

Not a good picture but maybe it might give you an idea of the finished install? This one is a 12 Gal. unit. One line is fuel a line to the pump and the other is a vent line to the outside of the car. Fuel cells can be messy if you spill or drip fuel inside the car, but in a race application, usually door windows are removed for safety, and you don't get fumes buildup, but that High octane sure has a sweet smell . .

:lick:

Hey Rick, thinking of doing the same application to my Z, how much did yours cost?

Thanks

I purchased my cell from ATL about four years ago for around $360. I know you can get Fuel Safe brand from racer parts wholesale.

One note on installing the cell for SCCA racing -- the rules state that you must have a metal bulkhead between the cell and the driver's compartment. My cell will hang below the deck where a single sheet of aluminum will completely cover the cell. I will be puting a flapper door so I can get to the filler.

Another thing. Since the pick-ups in the cell and hoses are quite large diameter, you will need to get a Holley Blue pump (around $100) to get the fuel out and up to the carbs. The pump comes with a regulator to get things down to about 6 pounds which is what my carbs like. They have modified needles.

Originally posted by tanny

Yeah, I wonder how the Z would perform on some hydrogen? Might prevent people from squealing at me for removing my smog stuff. Victor.

Hehehe, that was the first thing I thought when I saw "fuel cell".

Looks good Rick, love to see a photo of the car after the installation.

Measured, cut and ready to go

Final setup before tacking

Clamped in and ready to weld

Installed. Ready to drill holes and bolt in.

Your cell project is moving along good. Are you running the fuel line through the car or under the car through the tunnel? What is SCCA rule on fuel line through the car?

I have been using the Holly Red pump (which I think is now colored silver or something but still called the Red pump?) and I can still see 5.5 to 6 psi up front, but I knock it down to 3.5 to 4 psi with the Holley Press. Reg., but I don't have custom needles either. I don't know for sure, but I recall the Blue Pump not recommended for continuous use or daily drivers. Short runs or drag racing and as high as 15 psi., so what is the life on a Blue pump anyways? Have you seen one go bad?

Regards Craig

Craig,

I've used my Blue pump for about four years of racing. Each race lasts about 30-40 minutes. I guess there have been more than 25 races total. I have not had it fail or faulter. I do plan on running a second blue pump on this car that will be manually switched in case I do have a failure. This will require a T-fitting and some one way inline valves.

I plan on running all my lines within the car -- including brake lines -- since my car will have limited ground clearance and I don't want to take a chance of pinching or tearing a line when I do any 'agriculture racing'.

The SCCA states that any fuel, oil or brake lines that pass through the driver's compartment must be at minimum braided. They recommend, and this is what I will use, is solid metal line.