Exciting news! Cylinders 2 and 5 seem to have faulty injectors! As per the fsm prescribed method for testing them!

This is the book you want for doing your electrical tests. It is more clear than the FSM. Do your testing at the ECU plug and get actual reistance readings if you can. The water temperature sensor is important for determining the fuel-air ratio. Make a list of each reading. Most people go too fast looking for the quick find and fix. Then they have to go back and do it all over again. Been there. If the reading at the ECU is wrong then work your way out to the engine.

https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/32-efi-book-1980/

The smoke from the throttle body would be through the auxiliary air regulator (AAR). It is open when cold to allow a high idle speed. It's the torpedo shaped thing with two big hosea and an electrical connector.

Not sure what's up with the fuel pump readings since the engine started.

If you get it running well engough to drive it and it pops back and bucks, try the fuel tweak.

https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

Deeper and deeper he goes...😈

Not sure what it means but I misspelled hoses above as hosea. Prophet of Doom. No offense intended to anyone.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hosea

Edited Wednesday at 02:27 AM2 days by Zed Head

I don't know if you've seen this, hadn't read the whole thread, but you should see the little mark in or close by the notch in the sprocket.

On 7/15/2025 at 10:26 PM, Zed Head said:

Not sure what it means but I misspelled hoses above as hosea. Prophet of Doom. No offense intended to anyone.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hosea

I think that will be the name on this datsuns folder it seems to fit .

On 7/15/2025 at 10:24 PM, Zed Head said:

This is the book you want for doing your electrical tests. It is more clear than the FSM. Do your testing at the ECU plug and get actual reistance readings if you can. The water temperature sensor is important for determining the fuel-air ratio. Make a list of each reading. Most people go too fast looking for the quick find and fix. Then they have to go back and do it all over again. Been there. If the reading at the ECU is wrong then work your way out to the engine.

https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/32-efi-book-1980/

The smoke from the throttle body would be through the auxiliary air regulator (AAR). It is open when cold to allow a high idle speed. It's the torpedo shaped thing with two big hosea and an electrical connector.

Not sure what's up with the fuel pump readings since the engine started.

If you get it running well engough to drive it and it pops back and bucks, try the fuel tweak.

https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

Deeper and deeper he goes...😈

Yes thankyou! I want sute how that was supposed to work also Thank-you for the recommendation for the efi Bible I have read it and looking forward to doing some of the trouble shooting, the throttle position sensor test looked especially useful ! Thanks to everyone and i am sorry if i missed replying to anybody your all a huge help! I will continue to post my progress in so maybe someone else can benefit from all the info!