Just posted on FB. 

I managed to get it all reassembled and the switch is working ok. I was playing with it a bunch and maybe every 20-30 "toggles" the switch gets a bit jammed. Normally just pressing the switch again fixes it, but one time I had to take it out, manually push it, and then it was good again.

In case anyone stumbles across this the spring I ended up choosing was "BB-31CS" (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/century-spring-corp/BB-31CS/11671413) which is:

OD - 0.105" (2.67mm)
Length - 0.280" (7.11mm)
Spring rate - 0.86 lbs/in

Terrapin. I'll shoot you a message because having a backup would be good anyway

Probably going to have to contact the guy on FB market Place directly.

Oh shoot I misread Terrapins post. I'll reach out to them on FB

Yeah Harold is the guy with the parts. hopefully he still has it. It sounded like just what you were after and a decent price too. 

@hotsho111 Nice rundown of the switch design and components, thanks. I have a related problem. Apologies for hijacking the thread, but this seemed like the right place to ask :)

On my car (05/71 240z) only the low beams work. Flipping the high/low switch does not make any difference.

I’ve removed the switch from the column but haven’t opened it. It’s still connected. When measuring the voltage between the black and the red/yellow, it shows around 12V. When measuring between black and red/white, it shows 0V. This is consistent also when pushing the switch multiple times. I guess this means the switch is broken?

I’m confused though, because when checking the continuity between black and RY, and black and RW, there seems to be continuity between both. This is when using the voltmeter in continuity (sound signal) mode. Is this normal behaviour?

If the switch turns out to be broken and unrepairable, do you know of anyone selling new or NOS switches?