Attn Experts: Engine mystery problem

[CB30]

Well... I did it. It was scarey. Some of the posts on the other thread I posted on this car made me a little timid about the car, but...

I spent about half an hour pulling plugs, pre-lubing the cylinders, checking the fluids, installed new battery. It started after only two seconds of cranking. WOW! Tried to put it in gear so I could pull it onto the lift... NO CLUTCH. Tried to tow it to the top of the sloped driveway so I could coast it to the lift... REAR BRAKES FROZEN. Freed the rear brakes, towed it to the slope, put it on the lift. Clutch master cylinder seals shot, slave frozen. Bought rebuild kit for master (bye bye 16 bucks) freed the slave (all rubber was good) got the clutch working. Dropped the car and tried to back out of the garag... CLUTCH PLATE FROZEN. Pushed it to the top of the other slope, coasted, started it in gear... SHIFTS LIKE A DREAM. Pulled onto the freeway to head to the nearest gas station (five miles) and panics when I realized I was doing 85 in a 65. These cars are SMOOTH.

But on to the mystery. I talked to the owner (who happens to have bought it off the lot - now I know all about the cars history) and he says that the engine dying/not starting when at operating temperature, then starting when left to cool, just started happening before he parked it. He said it sounded like it was flooded or something when he would try to start it. Said it gets spark and the whole nine, but just wont fire. I've run it up to operating temperature a few times, even ran the AC to get it a little warmer than normal, but it's started right up afterward every time. It never stuttered when driving. Not anything at all that I can notice. As this is my first ever project car, and a car I may have to rely on here shortly (CV's and lifter work on the family car about due) I would like to know what's going on or get some tips on diagnostic procedures. I appreciate all the help.

Oh... BTW... For those that posted concerns about the rust on my last thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=41949#post41949

I've check the car thoroughly. The gas tank, floorpan, the whole works are fine. It's just the fender area.

[EScanlon]

And that specific area of the Front Fenders is a known problem area. Look in my gallery to see how I addressed the cause of that rust so that it wouldn't recur on my car. I took my fenders off, sandblasted the back then since all I had were pin-holes I used POR and the fiberglass matting they have.

For the amount of rust shown on your vehicle, you may have to find a body shop that can do metal replacement, or do it yourself. You CAN find fenders both used and new.

If as you've stated, that is the ONLY major piece of rust, and you are comfortable with the mechanical fixes needed, then go for it. Or post the guys address and phone and let one of us jump on it.

Don't let the guys who "hate" 2+2's give you too much static. I'll bet dollars to donuts that if they found themselves Z-less and the choice was a 2+2 or a Pacer, they'd JUMP through hoops for the 2+2.

Besides, in a few years the 260's and the 2+2's are going to be EXTREMELY rare due to people shunning them now.

FWIW

Enrique

[Daniel]

Just a couple of thoughts.If you have carbs,are the chokes fully off when you think they are?.Remember chokes love cool/hate heat.That my be your temp. problem.Also I would guess your rubber brake lines and wheel cylinders are in about the same status as your clutch parts were.Going is great,stopping is better!!