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1972 datsun 240z ammeter not working. Easy fix or should i get a used one?


jalexquijano

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10 hours ago, cgsheen1 said:

 

No, the needle sits at the center point without voltage or current.  I have one in my hand (and I'm not sitting in a Z...).

Just reading what others have said I don't think your gauge is the problem.

From Steve's post...

If the ammeter has failed completely, typically the car will not start since current will not flow through the ammeter. For starting the car, power goes from the battery, through the fusible link and ammeter, and to the ignition switch.

And that's the starter not the alternator you're checking voltage on.  I'm sorry I can't be more helpful.  Good luck.

Where does the needle point when the car is off?  Should be at the center.  Then when the car is running does it go all the way to the left, negative?  If it stays at the left running or not, I would disconnect the battery and see where the needle goes.  Again, good luck.

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5 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

Just reading what others have said I don't think your gauge is the problem.

From Steve's post...

If the ammeter has failed completely, typically the car will not start since current will not flow through the ammeter. For starting the car, power goes from the battery, through the fusible link and ammeter, and to the ignition switch.

And that's the starter not the alternator you're checking voltage on.  I'm sorry I can't be more helpful.  Good luck.

Where does the needle point when the car is off?  Should be at the center.  Then when the car is running does it go all the way to the left, negative?  If it stays at the left running or not, I would disconnect the battery and see where the needle goes.  Again, good luck.

Negative battery pole disconnected, tap given with closed fist to the gauge, needle went tobñ center and viola ammeter working again. Thanks to all of you for your great help throughout these 4 years and exhaustive patience. Happy new year! 

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28 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

Just reading what others have said I don't think your gauge is the problem.

From Steve's post...

If the ammeter has failed completely, typically the car will not start since current will not flow through the ammeter. For starting the car, power goes from the battery, through the fusible link and ammeter, and to the ignition switch.

And that's the starter not the alternator you're checking voltage on.  I'm sorry I can't be more helpful.  Good luck.

Where does the needle point when the car is off?  Should be at the center.  Then when the car is running does it go all the way to the left, negative?  If it stays at the left running or not, I would disconnect the battery and see where the needle goes.  Again, good luck.

Sorry for the misrepresentation of the part. Anyway problem fixed. Thanks to all of you. By the way i wish my air conditioner would blow more cold air. The gen ii mini evaporator need more flow.

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Im reading a book that describes the development and problems this car faced regarding vapor lock. Havent taken the car out for spin during stop and go traffic jams on week days. I was thinking that my 1972 240z could also have the symptoms described. 

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Edited by jalexquijano
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3 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

@jalexquijano Happy New Year Buddy. Glad you coerced the gauge back into working condition again. A word of caution. The problem will reoccur and too many thumps on the plastic faceplate will eventually crack it. V.O.E. Don't want to hijack the thread but how's your Z running these days?

When I bought my '77 the face of the oil gauge was up against the needle.  The guy I bought it from thought the gauge was bad I reckon?  He tapped it out of the holding ring.  I doubled up some duct tape and pulled it back into place then rebuilt the motor with a turbo oil pump. LOL

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  • 1 month later...

WHere can i purchase a 24" high quality negative battery cable with a soldered terminal and additional 4 inch cable which will be fastened to the firewall?  Maybe something similar. I would prefer the original negative battery cable for my 1972 240z.

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery-cable/duralast-battery-cable/570458_310040_0

Please advise if it the original negative battery cable was  24 inch long?

 

 

 

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19 hours ago, siteunseen said:

rockauto.com has a lot of information and part numbers for '72 240Z battery cables. There is a difference from 6/72 to 7/72 also manual or automatic. Not sure what it is.

Happy researching.

Mine is  1/72

On 12/31/2018 at 12:34 PM, siteunseen said:

Just reading what others have said I don't think your gauge is the problem.

From Steve's post...

If the ammeter has failed completely, typically the car will not start since current will not flow through the ammeter. For starting the car, power goes from the battery, through the fusible link and ammeter, and to the ignition switch.

And that's the starter not the alternator you're checking voltage on.  I'm sorry I can't be more helpful.  Good luck.

Where does the needle point when the car is off?  Should be at the center.  Then when the car is running does it go all the way to the left, negative?  If it stays at the left running or not, I would disconnect the battery and see where the needle goes.  Again, good luck.

Negative battery pole disconnected, tap given with closed fist to the gauge, needle went tobñ center and viola ammeter working again. Thanks to all of you for your great help throughout these 4 years and exhaustive patience. Happy new year! 

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