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Need pics..(Axle Stand)


24OZ

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Inf, I also have a Sears 2 ton floor jack, and yes, you have to be careful when lowering the car as it does release kinda quick at times if you aren't careful.

Drunkenmaster, the frame rail you used is just forward of where mine are, either one is OK. Actually the pads on my jackstands are a bit wide, so I used the rail that connects to the ones you have yours under.

George, I've got one set of stands like yours. But I don't use them much anymore since I finally broke down and bought a better set. I got these from Northern Tool, I think they are 3 ton. The main reason I got this set is because of the height.

To everyone, yes, mine is high, but is very stable. I can climb into the car with no trouble. I can also lift the front of the car off the jackstands as I still have the hatch on it and it makes the front a bit light compared to the rear. With the hatch off, I'd say it would be fairly even in weight front to back. I used the floor jack to get it as high as possible, then used my engine hoist to "cheat" a bit. I jacked up one end and then the other to get it as high as it is....:devious:

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I have used cheap jacks but I wouldn't use a cheap jack stand! I prefer a jack with a large platform so that it is less likely to damage the car. Smaller platform can put dents in your frame rails. I also like jack stands that have a thick piece of metal for the platform for the same reason, like the levitating stands that 240Z shows. If you are worried the car might not be secure, find a better spot to put the jack stands or give it a shake test before you get under there. Easier to fix a car than a person! I have had a car fall off a jack but never off of jack stands. Be sure to put them under a major support piece or frame rail and you should be fine. Also, typically the further they are apart the more stable the car will be.

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Thanks all for the great replys.

My jack stand is a 2 ton basic one. Works great but downside is it isnt very low and therefore it is hard to get it under the front spoiler without angling it through the wheel well first.

Most major drawback though is that it doesnt go as high as i would like it to reach, it also requires alot of work to get it moving, non of this fancy 3 strokes and your done :)

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Speaking of dealing with the airdam, do you guys have jacks that let you start to lift without putting the lever through the wheel well or removing the airdam? Do you guys ever use wood blocks between the jack/car or jackstands/car to prevent any damage?

When I jack it up from the side, it tends to try to pull towards me as the jack straightens out underneath, and the opposite occurs when I release it. That movement could be a problem when I try to mount it on jackstands. I even wedged both rear wheels well

but it just pulled against it. Not a lot, but enough that it would make mounting it on jackstands pretty tough.

Andrew

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When I jack the front or back of my car I usually come in from one of the wheel well areas, then when it is up just high enough I straighten the jack out if I have room. Of course the platform on my jack is big enough to completely craddle the front cross member or the front diff mount. You don't want to be moving the jack around with it at full extension. If you don't like that then take a couple 2x4 pieces and make a 45 degree cut at one end. Drive the car up on the short 2x4 "ramps" before jacking the car up.

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Oh, and yes I have used good 2x4 scraps on top of my jack or jackstand to soften the contact area and avoid damage. It is one of the advantages of working on a light car.

Also, regarding jacking from a front wheel well. I often have to lift on the front bumper just a touch with my shoulder to lift the car so I can get the jack under the front cross member.

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