This week I get into stripping the many many layers and years of paint and bog off of the Z. It is a very slow messy job, but it has to be done.

Music has been changed in this one. Better? Worse? Give up?

 

 

This week I have a go at making a stud puller to do some dent repairs and I pull the engine out of the car.

 

Jeff, music's definitely better. That stripper is messy stuff.

Edited October 20, 20177 yr by SurferD

On 10/3/2017 at 12:13 AM, SurferD said:

Jeff, music's definitely better. That stripper of messy stuff.

Unfortunately, I am finding getting the paint off is messy no matter what way I tackle it. Getting there though  

This week I tackle stretched sheet metal with the bonnet repairs, and I start pulling apart the engine.

 

This week I tear down the bottom end of my L28 and repair some rust holes in my front cowl.

 

 

 

 

 

This week I stripped down my P90a head to see what I am working with. I also tackled my most difficult rust repairs to date.

 

I am not a body work guy but was wondering if using a file to cut the weld down may work better to control heat.

5 hours ago, Dave WM said:

I am not a body work guy but was wondering if using a file to cut the weld down may work better to control heat.

Possibly, but it would be super slow. The problem with MIG welds is that they are really hard, which is why they take so much grinding.

30 minutes ago, Home Built by Jeff said:

Possibly, but it would be super slow. The problem with MIG welds is that they are really hard, which is why they take so much grinding.

roger that. After posted I did some research, seems gas fusion (oxy/ace torch and just heat up ant fuse) is discussed a lot for thin sheet metal (not as hard as mig). I am sure welding is an art form that takes a lot of practice to get really good at. Hope to give that a go some day.

I think the missing step and cause of the metal warping during welding is that Jeff is not "planishing" the spot welds as he goes.  Just like the metal shrinking technique that Jeff used to fix oil canning, each spot weld shrinks the metal when it cools and creates little stress points at each weld.  If you grind down the spot welds (after each pass around the repair area) followed by a little hammer and dollie work, you relieve the stresses in the spot welds that cause metal warping to occur.  Repeat after each pass.  The issue is that it takes a lot of extra time and work and sometimes a little judicial panel beating and filler is much faster/easier.

Simply "google" planishing for the details.

7 hours ago, David F said:

I think the missing step and cause of the metal warping during welding is that Jeff is not "planishing" the spot welds as he goes.  Just like the metal shrinking technique that Jeff used to fix oil canning, each spot weld shrinks the metal when it cools and creates little stress points at each weld.  If you grind down the spot welds (after each pass around the repair area) followed by a little hammer and dollie work, you relieve the stresses in the spot welds that cause metal warping to occur.  Repeat after each pass.  The issue is that it takes a lot of extra time and work and sometimes a little judicial panel beating and filler is much faster/easier.

Simply "google" planishing for the details.

I did that this week with the initial spot welds. To be honest, you could do a little bit of hammer and dolly every spot weld as you go, or as I have, a little bit at the end. The warping I got was nothing major, but I think the main thing that people need to know, it whatever you do.

Edited October 23, 20177 yr by Home Built by Jeff