master cylinder check list

[siteunseen]

From what I read beforehand, the vent was to keep the pressure from building up inside the booster's hole.  My backing plate had a small gap at the bottom, booster side, and leaked fluid from there but the booster's hole was dry.  So I don't know what to think about the difference in mine and your's Captain but I damn sure won't be rotating that booster.  That was a HUUUUGE pain in the rectum.  I'll go look at my 280's position later this morning, it's original to the car, and let you know.

The sealer was there from Nissan so I put it back.  I wasn't thinking theories and logic, I'm a worker bee. 

I just thought of something, my booster has one way to mount because of the vacuum hose, so it's right.  More questions than answers but the clock says 0:00 and the confetti has fallen.

[siteunseen]

12 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

A very little bit right on the very tip would probably be OK, but you don't want any of that stuff to come in contact with the vacuum seal that rides on that shaft. I wouldn't want to assume that rubber seal is compatible with that grease. I think a better choice would be silicone based brake grease. Something safe for rubber seals.

Just the tip?  That's funny, reminds of being young and horny.

I'm too lazy to walk down there now but it was a black molly-graphite lubricant that I ended up using.  My lithium grease is a spray on, this other I rubbed on with a finger.

[Captain Obvious]

Yup. Just the tip.

As for the o-clock positioning of the vent, I was remembering incorrectly and talking earlier as though the vent passage was in the aluminum spacer, and it's not. My vent passage is not in the aluminum spacer, but is stamped into the booster clamshell. Mine points right at the vacuum hose connection which is in the same place as the one in your pic (mine's a 77).

So the bottom line is that my vent hole is at maybe 4:00?

[Captain Obvious]

And before I forget... I'm planning to cut another vent passage into my aluminum spacer as close to 6:00 as I can. I just rebuilt my booster and even remade some of the internal parts out of stainless, but I don't want that thing to ever suck brake fluid again. Getting that thing apart and together again is not something I plan to make a habit out of!

[siteunseen]

Just had my "oh snap" for the month.

Drove for an hour or so, good stiff pedal and felt great finally.  Pulled it in my garage put clean cardboard under the engine bay to check for leaks, it's become an every drive habit as I have empty beer boxes out the ying yang.  Went back downstairs to take this pic and had two brake fluid drips going on.  Reservoirs were at the FULL level so I got under there and saw they were dripping out the two drain holes on the front rails.  Apparently fluid had seeped in there over the past few months from the leaky M/C.  I haven't moved the car in over a month but after a drive today the fluid decided to drip out.  Fingers crossed but everything looks good and the levels are staying constant.

Captain Obvious the 240 is at 11 o'clock.  280 is 4 o'clock like your's. 

[siteunseen]

Drove it for two hours. Parked in the garage spot, clean cardboard and two hours later drier than the sawdust around my toilet. 

That problem is gone for the next 20 or 30 years.  My nephews will replace the next one if they have sense enough to keep the car?  They're pretty rotten kids now, maybe they'll grow up!

[Captain Obvious]

Cool. So they moved that hole. Wonder why.

Anyway, glad you're back on the road. I've got a couple months to go yet before they stop salting the roads up here.