what do you think, I see oil leaking right at the pan gasket joint. I am hoping its not the rear seal.

 

 

The cheapest fix I know of is to tighten/re-torque your pan.  That is always a good thing to do anyway.  If the leak isn't very bad I wouldn't  worry too much about it though.  Replacing a  rear seals (I think there are 3) means pulling the tranny and oil pan, or pulling the engine, either way that's a lot of effort for a few drops of oil.   It's all part of the fun of Z ownership IMO.

you might try putting some dye in the oil, drive a few miles, then shine a black light on it. it will glow, and show you right where the leak is.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/supercool-u-v-leak-detect-dye-9497/10639818-P?searchTerm=leak+dye

Edited November 4, 20169 yr by sweatybetty

its time for an oil change so will do.

The problem with ignoring a main seal leak is you will be replacing the clutch disc as it will start slipping...ask me how I know. Just got done replacing clutch, resurfacing flywheel, and main seal...and unfortunately I'm seeing a small drip in my drip pan in the place under the trans/engine join...sigh. It is very difficult to properly set the main seal without the right sized seal setter tool. It gets cocked-off to one side or the other. Just sayin'.......

Cheers, Mike

so far no clutch issues. But I do have a 5 speed that I am waiting for cooler weather to install. So when I pull it  presume I will be able to see if there is any leaking.  I am surprised by all the issues folks report back on the main seal. I would not have thought it is so problematic. From what I have read the main issues are

Proper lube (no dry starts)

Proper tool to install (per you post about getting in square)

side seals on main bearing cap (different styles OE vs non OE with external steel.

sealant on side seals of main bearing cap.

So my plan is to continue to research and try to figure out the best way to address these issues.

Edited November 4, 20169 yr by Dave WM