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Alan2fast

73 240z help starting

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Bought this 73 240z year ago that had a 350 swap attempt. Also came with original motor and trans took it apart and cleaned it up and replaced ever thon with new parts new electric fuel pump new mechanical fuel pump new spark plugs and wires all new filters complete carburetor rebuild by pal tech but the car won't start there is fuel to the carburetors there's spark to the plugs I just don't know what to do anymore any help is appreciated?

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1. Make sure the distributor is pointing to cylinder 1 when the engine is at TDC.

2. Make sure the wires are in the correct order: 1-5-3-6-2-4 CCW.

3. Make sure the distributor is not 180 degrees out.

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Yea it points to cylinder 1 and all the timing marks also line up and i have double checked the firing order is correct but not sure how to tell if 180 out

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I should have said "TDC on the compression stroke". If the distributor is pointing at #1 at TDC on the compression stroke, the distributor cannot be 180 out.

 

(Sorry about the scattered info. I should have posted this all together.)

 

Do you have the stock points or an electronic ignition?

If stock, did you set the points? Are the points new?

Have you compared how your distributor looks at TDC with pictures from this site? I'm sure Blue has posted some.

How did you verify spark?

 

How about posting pictures of

1. your coil & ballast resistor

2. your distributor with cap and rotor removed

3. your cap inside & out (wires off)

4. your rotor.

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Not sure what you mean by stock points the distributor is new and also new cap and yes i have compared to the site pictures all look the same and for the spark unpluged spark plug wire to some thing metal i will get pictures off those things also the coil and ballast are new

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I should have said "TDC on the compression stroke". If the distributor is pointing at #1 at TDC on the compression stroke, the distributor cannot be 180 out.

(Sorry about the scattered info. I should have posted this all together.)

Do you have the stock points or an electronic ignition?

If stock, did you set the points? Are the points new?

Have you compared how your distributor looks at TDC with pictures from this site? I'm sure Blue has posted some.

How did you verify spark?

How about posting pictures of

1. your coil & ballast resistor

2. your distributor with cap and rotor removed

3. your cap inside & out (wires off)

4. your rotor.

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Not sure what you mean by stock points the distributor is new and also new cap and yes i have compared to the site pictures all look the same and for the spark unpluged spark plug wire to some thing metal i will get pictures off those things also the coil and ballast are new

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

Many people have converted their distributors to electronic ignitions or Pertronix igniters.

 

You have stock-style points. Check the gap per page EE-28 of the 1973 FSM.

 

I also believe that your coil is wired backwards. The positive terminal should have the black with white stripe wire (and the condenser). The negative side should have a ground wire that goes to the distributor. That shouldn't keep your car from running, but it will weaken the spark.

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I dont think it is wired wrong just because it started for 5 second and turned off the frist time

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So i was looking at some other people posts and some one was saying you should have 12v in the on postion at the coil and if on both sides the points are closed well i have 6v on both sides what does that mean

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Ok some thing else here on the pass side coming form under the battery area black wire with white line dont know were it connects

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You have the dual points distributor, which is from a automatic transmission model. Not a problem, but you need to make sure you have a condensor connected to the set of points you will use. I only can see one condensor in the photo.

 

I suspect the black/white wire is for the oil pressure sending unit.

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Ok guys got the car started sounds good only thing is when i go to give it gas it pop at the front carburetor when i let off the gas

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You have the dual points distributor, which is from a automatic transmission model. Not a problem, but you need to make sure you have a condensor connected to the set of points you will use. I only can see one condensor in the photo.

I suspect the black/white wire is for the oil pressure sending unit.

The wire for the oil sender is already in place

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Great that you goot it to run. What was the problem?

 

The wiring diagram shows the black/white wire is a switch +12V feed having two branches in the engine compartment. One goes to the voltage regulator, the other goes to the thermo switch to control the EGR and for automatic models the relay that selects which set of points to use.

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The points gap was to big had to tight it up a bit and my wire to the coil were wrong so i was wrong on that any ideas on why its poping after i release the gas when reving up

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It turns out the thermo-switch is in the passenger-side footwell on an assembly containing several relays and related devices. See the attached page from the service manual. A bit odd considering the wiring diagram shows it being attached to wires in the engine compartment. Anyhow, you don't realy need it unless you are required to maintain compliance with smog emission rules.

 

Thermo Switch.pdf

 

The popping is likely to be related to the tune-up adjustments. Have you done a complete tune-up? Adjust the valves, clean or replace and gap the spark plugs, set the dwell and timing, sync the carbs and idle mixture, an so on? Have you done a compression check?

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Cool thanks ill just set that aside but ill have to check ever thing else again know that its running ive got one other thing the rpm gauge does not work

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