arrrggh...clutch bleeding issue

[Zed Head]

The slave cylinder has a spring behind the piston that pushes it out to a certain spot and holds the rod tip against the fork. If things are right, the spring will take up all of the play between the rod tip and the seat on the fork, so that the next stroke give maximum travel. You can actually push the rod in to the cylinder to remove it if you wanted to, if things were right. It's fairly easy to take the slave cylinder apart, you might do that before you go too far. I think that there is a simple circlip holding the piston in. Maybe there's an obstruction in your slave cylinder.

You could also take the rubber dust boot off of the fork at the transmission and get a better feel for if the fork is seated on the pivot pin and held correctly by the springs. And somewhere out there I have seen a diagram of the angle of the fork when it's seated properly. If the fork is on the pin correctly, it will have a little bit of play fore and aft but will be held firmly by the springs. If it's not held by the springs you'll be able to tell. It's hard to feel with the boot on though, you'll need to pop it off (it's hard to get back on though).

Just a few ideas before you take it out. And, by the way, I think that you're using engage and disengage backwards. Engage is when the clutch pedal is up and the engine is tied, or engaged, to the transmission. Disengage is when the engine is released from the transmission by pushing on the clutch pedal.

[ollie]

Thanks Zed for your comments. I removed the dust cover easily off the fork, and the fork appears to be in the correct position with exactly the play you referenced, fore and aft. I am starting to think the release bearing collar could be the issue. The car is on a hoist so pulling the transmission isn't a big deal, just frustrating when all seems in order but obviosuly something is not. I will get the transmission out tomorrow night and will start measuring....kicking myself for not having kept the original clutch parts for sure.

[Zed Head]

Here's a recent thread that's relevant. Opposite of your problem. We figured out the "magic number" - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47279&page=2&p=416109&highlight=clutch%20collar%20height%2092%20stack#post416109

If the collar is too short there should be lots of room for the collar to move back and forth on the front cover before it contacts the pressure plate fingers. Just another thing to maybe confirm your suspicions.

I feel your pain, I took a transmission back out in less than a week after I installed it because it was leaking 2-3 drops of gear oil per day. The pivot pin threads in the cover hadn't been sealed. It had to be done.

Edited January 3, 2013 by Zed Head

[FastWoman]

Is your clutch pedal adjusted correctly? The push rod is adjustable from under the dashboard. First enlist the help of a friendly leprechaun to climb up under your dash. Tell him to loosen the jam nut on the push rod, adjust the length to take up the slack, and then re-tighten the jam nut.

Wade: "That will be one six pack of beer, please."

Here we are at the beginning of a new year. Isn't it about time you admit you have a problem? Hmmmm?

[ollie]

On the eve of pulling the tranny I decided I would yank the clutch master. Sure enough it was seizing at the end of the throw, limiting it by 1/2". I bench bled the new master then bled the line, done. Thank you all for your input.