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My two swiss S30Z Fairlady Restoration build thread


JDMjunkies.ch

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11 minutes ago, JDMjunkies.ch said:


See here the race and rallye preparation manual for the 240Z: (#3 are the gaskets, #2 is the insulator)
DSC_0248.jpg
 

 

That's for the 44PHH upgrade (over the 40PHH) on the S20 engine in the PS30-SB.

The #2 in the parts list and diagram (16177-A0220) is the solid, phenolic insulator. Same type as stock on the S20 engine, just bigger.

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4 hours ago, JDMjunkies.ch said:

Yes, but only the insulators itself were still available from nissan, from where i got those for the U20.

FYI- All the roadster North American vendors sell reproduction gaskets for the U20 Solex insulator, as that is the only source now (though I did have some NOS ones a while ago and sold to a European roadster specialist). And repros are widely available from Japan also.

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The big Sea-freight shipment from Japan, which arrived last week and constisted mainly Honda Parts, also included something nice for the Datsun Project. A set of Seats:
DSC_0378-Kopie.jpg

Seats? Why more seats? Longtime readers might know i spent quite some time and money on finding "vintage" japanese seats - and i ended up buying Bride histrix seats.
I really like them, but they never really looked that oldschool. They're new seats with a vintage touch.
So when i found a set of genuine japanese Autolook type A Seats for sale recently i had to get them. And personally i think they fit the car perfect, At least for my "Japanese street tuner" Style setup.
Here shown withot seat rails, so final position will be slightly higher.
DSC_0384-Kopie.jpg
 

Luckily i still fit into them, allthough i shouldn't gain a lot of weight 🙂 Here's a comparison between the bride and the Autolook. I think the bride's look way to modern with the glossy Carbon fiber bucket shell on the back. Also it won't be suitable for racing harnesses and has no headrests, so not exactly safe.
And the shoulder "wings" also make the fitment in the Z a bit tight, even tho they DO fit. Personally i just think the Autolook is more authentic and the shape just fits better in my opinion.
DSC_0386-Kopie.jpg

Now for a little history: In the early 80ies a Japanese Company named Autolok started to build these seats, called type A. It was one of the first Japan made racing seats. Here's an advertizment in the 1983 carboy magazine:
2021-11-28-15_05_24-Carboy-1983_5-Seats-

And here another one from the same area:
 2021-11-28-15_06_10-Carboy-19xx_08-Autol
 

The Autolook brand is now owned by the japanese company Latirips, which still makes racing gloves etc under that name. Amon Classic cars used to make the Autolook type A Replica seats (with black instead of yellow buckets) under licence of Latirips, but while still shown on their website, they're sold out since many years.
But since i got the originals one i don't want the replicas anyway. As you've seen they're a bit worn, to say the least, so they'll also need a bit of reupholstry. but in my opinion these seats are just the perfect ones for my build. And don't worry i still have my original Z-seats if i ever want to switch back to original.
Autolook-logo-Latirips.com_.png

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12 minutes ago, Patcon said:

On a separate note, the door strike area of the door jamb has 3 round stud looking projections. What are those? In the US we just have a threaded plate inside the jamb to accept bolts.

these are the original mounting bolts for the door locking mechanism. I left them in place because there's a plate on the inside of the rear quarter area and if you remove all three bults, it will fall down on the inside. at least that's how i understand. so i just removed them one-by-one and put them back immediately to secure the plate on the inside.

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On 12/19/2021 at 8:26 PM, Patcon said:

I believe the plate is captive and held by some tabs inside the quarter panel. My are and I can't imagine them being different for different markets.

I just double checked on my car. They're definitely held in place with something on the inside. So you can definitely remove all three bolts without the threaded plate on the backside getting lost on the inside of the quarter.
But the threaded plate on the inside is somehow movable. I guess to adjust the position of the locking mechanism to align the door straight. So yeah, i can remove those bolts then 🙂

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Recently i ran into a NOS lot for sale again. Turns out a still active Nissan dealership in germany is cleaning out his parts warehouse and wanted to get rid of all the old parts without any stock movement. Well, i signed up for the whole package and got the deal.
It were not exactly many parts, but some really nice scores and some parts are not very common to find NOS.
DSC_0398-Kopie.jpg

I checked the partnumbers beforehand and all of them are definitely S30 parts. but not all might be correct for my 240Z. Nevertheless, i got a good package deal, so i took all of them.
The first one is an exchaust front pipe. It has a few scratches from storage, bot otherwise completely NOS with the factory sticker still there:
DSC_0402-Kopie.jpg

Then an original L-series Oil pan. in excellent shape (Except it needs a bit of dedusting)
DSC_0403-Kopie.jpg

Front lower control arm. I think the Partno. was listed for the 260Z, but i couldn't see any difference on the first glimpse. i'll have to re-check:
DSC_0406-Kopie.jpg

These are pretty cool: NOS rear bumper mounting brackets:
DSC_0404-Kopie.jpg 

A set of genuine Akebono rear drum brake shoes:
DSC_0408-Kopie.jpg

And a set of genuine rear strut inserts (replacement units):
DSC_0413-Kopie.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Today i had my Datsun-Mate Dan over for a visit and as usual we exchanged a few documents and things that we've collected for each other over the last few months. today i got some nice things from him:DSC_0463-Kopie-2.jpg

First of all a few early swiss Datsun pricelists, including the ones which were missing in my collection. Like one of the very first ones from 1968! Now i'm finally ble to put the complete series of pricelists from 1968 to 1979 online!
DSC_0464-Kopie-1.jpg

Then i've got a bit of a curiosity: a Datsun branded Padlock. I first thought it was a random engraved lock like you can buy it at many places, but Dan said he had a second set which looks exactly the same, and what is also interesting is that the "Datsun" name is not only engraved in the Lock itself (easy to make), but also cast into the keys, which makes it more likely something either officially sold by Nissan / Datsun or something from a local marketing campaingn or at least something from a big 3rd party supplier. Nice to have anyway 🙂
DSC_0465-Kopie-1.jpg

Last but not least he once ordered a set of Air intake box repro-stickers and was kind enough to order a set for me too. The biggest sticker doesn't belong to our european 240Z's, so i'll only need the other ones. still good to have, as my original ones are looking bad.
DSC_0466-Kopie.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Today i got an odd little NOS piece set in my mailbox. I found these turn signals a while ago in Germany. 
DSC_0687-Kopie.jpg

When i checked the part numbers, i realized the European Microfiches say it's a "West germany" Spec part.
DSC_0686-Kopie.jpg

1x Left side 26165-N3600 and 1x right side 26160-N3600. This made me even more curious, so i got them.
2022-02-07-20_44_05-classiczcars-copyrig

I'm not sure why they're different. Must probably have been some local law or regulation (Similar to the french taillights), which required different blinkers.
Here is a comparison of three different types.
Left: West germany".  It has a tilted rubber piece, for a more angled turn signal, and a long tail connecting cable.
Center: Original ones that came on my 1972 swiss (european spec) cars, with straight rubber. Unfortunately the cable was cut, so i have no reference here.
Right: Some asian Turn signal reproductions with a short tail cable and different connector and "straight" rubber.
  DSC_0695-Kopie.jpg

I wish i could find out the reason behind this. An odd and probably rare piece. Nice to have in my collection.

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1 hour ago, RIP260Z said:

Rare would be the East German version??!!

Theoretically yes, but overall only a handfull of 240Z were sold in germany at all (they were one of the latest to join the party) so it means in general everything that is specific for the german market 240Z is a bit rare.
"East german" specific parts are not mentioned in the BOM, so i guess they either didn't get the car at all, or it was just the same as the standard European specification.

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When i got my "west germany" Spec turn signals last week, i went through my own parts to compare them, and realized i have everything ready to assemble a nice pair of restored ones. A perfect task for a saturday morning. so i got everything ready and started the project:
DSC_0695-Kopie-1.jpg

From the three complete sets i have, i realize only one of the amber lenses was still without cracks:
DSC_0697-Kopie.jpg

What a difference a little cleanup in warm soap water makes:
DSC_0698-Kopie.jpg

Then i cleaned the rubberpieces and chrome trim with a bit of warm water too and had the rubber seals greased up with a bit of petroleum grease (Vaseline) and the chrome trim cleaned and polished with my secret weapon called "Metarex"
DSC_0699-Kopie.jpg

And here we go, everything cleaned uo and assembled. looks like almost new. I will probably take one of the lenses from the "west germany" spec signals, as they're exactly the same. but until then, i just keep them as they are. Oh andi need new bulbs, the old ones are both quite corroded and i want some nice ones 🙂
DSC_0705-Kopie.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Good news. The Z project is back! Well it was never gone and i've been continuously working on it, but due to an management education i had on the weekend for the past two years, a big step forward in my job and many other things in life, the project was progressing much slower than i wished. But i'm a guy to make long-term plans and i've always had the plan to get things done when life allows me to. So here we are. My school is completed. Well i still have my exams in mid april so i'm working hard on that, but until then that and my job will still occupy most of my free time. The advantage of my new job position is that i earn some more money and in the meantime i've saved some especially to complete this project. I've also really longing to get back into the garge and get my hands greasy. Over the past weeks i've been looking for a bodyshop to complete the work. The old one was OK, but there was a bit of a difficulty when it came to communication and it was always a side-project for the bodyshop, which was earning money with small repairs, insurrance cases and fixer-upper projects of US-cars. He had a strong history in japanese cars, but i had the feeling he lost a bit of interest in my project. The other thing is - he was a talented panel-beater, but didn't have the tools himself, so whenever he had to bend some sheetmetal, he had to go to his friends shop. this was time consuming and i had the feeling i paid for much of it. So i decided instead to go to a more upperclass Oldtimer specialist, which usually deals with cars in a different price range. I was asking around and got some good tips. Finally i have a nice bloke coming over to check out the car and details in the coming days. we'll see how that turns out. so far i have a very good feeling. But i also started to collect all the panels required to complete the project
DSC_0842-Kopie.jpg

Yes, puzzle time 🙂 Only the box section on the LH side is missing, but i hope the panelbuilder can make this himself.
DSC_0835-Kopie.jpg


Labor is expensive in switzerland, so i decided to get these ready-made patch panels from the US, to delete the US-spec turn signal holes on the US spec rear quarter panel, which i got. Why pay a dude an hour of work to measre and create such a panel, i can buy a ptch piece for 20 bucks?
DSC_0838-Kopie.jpg


Additionally a collected a few NOS items from some nice guys.- like an original hood hinge:
DSC_0843-Kopie.jpg


And a complete choke cable assembly (ok, this one isused, but in almost mint condition!):
DSC_0844-Kopie.jpg


and some more parts. Engine gasket kit, Starter solenoid, Rectifier diode, SU carb gasket kit and a wheel bearing:
DSC_0877-Kopie.jpg

DSC_0879-Kopie.jpg

DSC_0880-Kopie-rotated.jpg

DSC_0881-Kopie.jpg

DSC_0882-Kopie.jpg

DSC_0883-Kopie.jpg


I also (again) bought a nice set of vintage swiss Datsun stickers. You may have seen them before, but the special one in this set is the white one:
DSC_0825-Kopie.jpg


Its from the early 70ies and the slogan "Datsun bringt neue Werte" (Datsun brings new values) was used on many of the original Swiss Datsun (240Z) Documentation:
DSC_0826-Kopie.jpg

Here is an 1971 advertizing where you could order above stickers for free (see center)
redspot-merch-ordering.png


I also found this nice swiss Datsun keychain from the early eighties. it was cheap, so i had to have it 🙂
DSC_0822-Kopie.jpg


From the same era is this 1984 Datsun / Nissan brochure, which i will use for my Datsun switzerland chronicles story which i'm working on. The swiss Prince / PMC Mikado pricelist from 1966 has already been added to the "Prince" part of the story
DSC_03-Kopie.jpg


For the coming "commercial vehicle" chapter, i obtained a few nice and rarer brochures of commercial vehicles, like this datsun Homer, King-cab, Urvan, and Vanette brochures:
DSC_0830-Kopie.jpg

DSC_0848-Kopie.jpg

That's it for today. I have some more documents for the story on the way currently, and also a nice JDM-only piece for the Z is on the way from Japan. so stay tuned for more news soon...

Edited by JDMjunkies.ch
Added advertizing for sticker
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Those NOS lower frame rails (and the LHS upper frame 'horn') are real unicorn pieces.  Where did you find them?

Also:  If time permits, it would be of interest to some of us if you can show some pictures of the internal details of the lower frame rails (reinforcement pieces, weld-nut fasteners, etc). 

Also: What metal gauge was used for those lower and upper frame pieces?

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25 minutes ago, Namerow said:

Those NOS lower frame rails (and the LHS upper frame 'horn') are real unicorn pieces.  Where did you find them?

Also:  If time permits, it would be of interest to some of us if you can show some pictures of the internal details of the lower frame rails (reinforcement pieces, weld-nut fasteners, etc). 

Also: What metal gauge was used for those lower and upper frame pieces?

Here is another picture from the backside: https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2013-01-11/240z-new-frame-rails/ i think there more pictures on my website, but need some time to find them.
I haven't checked in detail, but usually the KFvintageJDM parts are pretty close to OEM when it comes to such details.
Here is where i found them in 2012: https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2012-09-28/240z-datsun-parts-heaven/
Here is where i found most of the pother parts last year (also includes a set of frame rails, but all these parts have ben sold already): https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2021-02-23/240z-the-big-barn-find-parts-lot/

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On 3/2/2022 at 5:05 PM, Namerow said:

Those NOS lower frame rails (and the LHS upper frame 'horn') are real unicorn pieces.  Where did you find them?

Also:  If time permits, it would be of interest to some of us if you can show some pictures of the internal details of the lower frame rails (reinforcement pieces, weld-nut fasteners, etc). 

Also: What metal gauge was used for those lower and upper frame pieces?

@Namerow: Since you cought my interest on this, i decided to have a deeper look into this. I have two different sets of NOS frame rails, one is grey and the other one black. one set is already sold, one grey item has already been cut up by my previous bodyshop to fix my chassis:
Here you can see the two sets with the partnumbers labelled on it.

The main differences are the mounting brackets (see red circles), some "wings" which were added on the grey version (see blue marks), and the extended length of the tension rod mounting "buckets" (sees green circles)
Otherwise the two are pretty much the same, aside from some small clamps and brackets which have been added:
DSC_0888-Kopie.jpg

-E4150 is used up to June 1972 according the european microfiches. and it also seems to match with my late 1971 production chassis i have.
-N4150 is not clear. i didn't find it in any of my parts list, it seems weither to be from the 2+2 nor any other model, but because of the part numbering system, i just think it's an July 1972+ item.

grafik.png

I didn't measure every single part, but wherever i checked on approx. 5 random spots, it was always 1,5mm thickness of sheet metal:
DSC_0889-Kopie.jpg

here are some additional photos, see additional cable clamp in the black version,
DSC_0891-Kopie.jpg

DSC_0892-Kopie.jpg

Additional "Wing" is well visible here:
DSC_0893-Kopie.jpg

extende shape of the inside reinforcment:

 

DSC_0895-Kopie.jpg

slightly different shape of the inside mounting bracket / reinforcement (left edge):

DSC_0896-Kopie.jpg

Here you can see the end "wings" on the grey one, but it seems like the "leftower" piece on t he black ones have just been bent up in the grey version.
DSC_0897-Kopie.jpg

Small additional bracket on t he grey version (center)

DSC_0898-Kopie.jpg

Here you can nicely see the different style of mounting brakets: (the center one of the grey one is bent, i t would look similar as the other ones on the grey one.
the additional "holes" on the left side are because the bracket on t he inside has been drilled out by the bodyshop, these wouldn't usually be there:
DSC_0899-Kopie.jpg

Here's a closeup:
DSC_0894-Kopie.jpg

Here the overall sisize difference of the tension rod mounting bucket is well visible:
DSC_0900-Kopie.jpg

From what i can see and what i've experienced so far, the KFvintagejdm parts (no advertizing here) come pretty close to the black ones from the picture. The only part missing here is the "bucket" for the tension rod:
KFD240Z-38A.jpg

they currently sell them only in two pieces, but if you look at the photos and drawings in the parts manual exploded view, you can see even the original ones where produced like this and then welded together. so in my opinion this is the best you can get if you can't find OEM ones. It's not well visible in my photos above, but even the "teeth" visible on this one seem to be as on the original ones (the part where the upper and the lower part join). Look closely in the last photo which i posted above, then you can see the "teeth" on the original grey one from a side view):
KFD240Z-11g.jpg

 

 

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On 12/21/2021 at 9:21 AM, JDMjunkies.ch said:

Recently i ran into a NOS lot for sale again. Turns out a still active Nissan dealership in germany is cleaning out his parts warehouse and wanted to get rid of all the old parts without any stock movement. Well, i signed up for the whole package and got the deal.
It were not exactly many parts, but some really nice scores and some parts are not very common to find NOS.
DSC_0398-Kopie.jpg


And a set of genuine rear strut inserts (replacement units):
DSC_0413-Kopie.jpg

Great acquisition of parts.  What is the part number(s) of the strut inserts?

Thanks,

Keith

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1 hour ago, zed2 said:

Great acquisition of parts.  What is the part number(s) of the strut inserts?

Thanks, Keith

They're Part No. 56105-N3785 from the 260Z 2+2, so they're not the correct ones for the 240Z, allthough they would most probably fit. i just got them as part of the package deal and use them as a reference for my Suspension post
You can find the correct part no for the 240Z in the parts manual or here: in the said suspension post

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22 hours ago, JDMjunkies.ch said:

@Namerow: Since you cought my interest on this, i decided to have a deeper look into this. I have two different sets of NOS frame rails, one is grey and the other one black. one set is already sold, one grey item has already been cut up by my previous bodyshop to fix my chassis:
Here you can see the two sets with the partnumbers labelled on it.

The main differences are the mounting brackets (see red circles), some "wings" which were added on the grey version (see blue marks), and the extended length of the tension rod mounting "buckets" (sees green circles)
Otherwise the two are pretty much the same, aside from some small clamps and brackets which have been added:
DSC_0888-Kopie.jpg

-E4150 is used up to June 1972 according the european microfiches. and it also seems to match with my late 1971 production chassis i have.
-N4150 is not clear. i didn't find it in any of my parts list, it seems weither to be from the 2+2 nor any other model, but because of the part numbering system, i just think it's an July 1972+ item.

grafik.png

I didn't measure every single part, but wherever i checked on approx. 5 random spots, it was always 1,5mm thickness of sheet metal:
DSC_0889-Kopie.jpg

here are some additional photos, see additional cable clamp in the black version,
DSC_0891-Kopie.jpg

DSC_0892-Kopie.jpg

Additional "Wing" is well visible here:
DSC_0893-Kopie.jpg

extende shape of the inside reinforcment:

 

DSC_0895-Kopie.jpg

slightly different shape of the inside mounting bracket / reinforcement (left edge):

DSC_0896-Kopie.jpg

Here you can see the end "wings" on the grey one, but it seems like the "leftower" piece on t he black ones have just been bent up in the grey version.
DSC_0897-Kopie.jpg

Small additional bracket on t he grey version (center)

DSC_0898-Kopie.jpg

Here you can nicely see the different style of mounting brakets: (the center one of the grey one is bent, i t would look similar as the other ones on the grey one.
the additional "holes" on the left side are because the bracket on t he inside has been drilled out by the bodyshop, these wouldn't usually be there:
DSC_0899-Kopie.jpg

Here's a closeup:
DSC_0894-Kopie.jpg

Here the overall sisize difference of the tension rod mounting bucket is well visible:
DSC_0900-Kopie.jpg

From what i can see and what i've experienced so far, the KFvintagejdm parts (no advertizing here) come pretty close to the black ones from the picture. The only part missing here is the "bucket" for the tension rod:
KFD240Z-38A.jpg

they currently sell them only in two pieces, but if you look at the photos and drawings in the parts manual exploded view, you can see even the original ones where produced like this and then welded together. so in my opinion this is the best you can get if you can't find OEM ones. It's not well visible in my photos above, but even the "teeth" visible on this one seem to be as on the original ones (the part where the upper and the lower part join). Look closely in the last photo which i posted above, then you can see the "teeth" on the original grey one from a side view):
KFD240Z-11g.jpg

 

 

Thanks.  Great job of assembling photos and details.  These will be an useful resource for anyone planning to do a front frame rail replacement.

I've always been intrigued by those 'teeth'.  Its an odd design detail.  Maybe a strategy for reducing warpage along this flange during the factory spot-welding process?  If so, why wasn't it used along the other (longer) flanges?  Any ideas?

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It would be great to cut the post on the front frame rail differences and pictures into a separate frame rail thread to make them easier to find in the future

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  • 1 month later...

KFVintageJDM has been pushing out new panels almost weekly. i saw they now even released a whole damn reproduction rear quarter panel! Something many people have been looking for for a long time!
DSC_1010-Kopie.jpg

One of the lately released parts are the inner rocker seatbelt mount's. I'm  not even sure if i need those, but since they were available, i added them to the package.
DSC_1011-Kopie.jpg

I got myself a partial firewall. I only need the lower section, which is quite messed up in my car, but thought it might be easier to have something to work with than make it from scratch:
DSC_1012-Kopie.jpg

As you can see on the left the part that is inside the fender is pretty messed up with various welds, rust, bondo and whatnot, so it's definitely good to have a replacement.
DSC_1013-Kopie.jpg

More news tomorrow and next week again...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yes! On monday the shell is going back to the bodyshop. I chose a new panelbeater with a bit more professional background. The other one was OK, but this time it goes to a specialist which is usually handling cars in a more exclusive price-range. Also he's not alone but has a hand full of people on hand and compared to my previous guy - has all the tools required in-house. Also he just seems a bit more of a "do-er" and less of a "talker" - my kind of guy. And he promised me to complete the body until the end of the year for a fair price. So let's have the fingers corssed that the project is back to 100 again now...
This means i had to prepare a few things for the bodyshop. Aside from a few drawings with measures and dimensions and other details, he asked me to prepare the passenger side. the first thing he's going to attack is fix and finalize the work of the previous guy. on the first look he told me the work was pretty good, but there are a few small details to rectify especially the rocker panel that doesn't align with the door. something the previous guy wanted to fix himself before i took the car back...
So first: there is still a lot of media from the sand blasting falling whenever you move the car...
DSC_1080-Kopie.jpg

So i took out the vacuum cleaner and tried to suck out all remaining sand wherever possible (2nd attemt, and for sure not the last one...)
DSC_1081-Kopie.jpg

The previous owner t hought it was coo to have the car "clean" and closed all the holes for the fender and hood emblems. Luckily i have a good fender with the original holes in stock. so i took measures there
DSC_1084-Kopie.jpg

...and transferred them to the other fender, to drill the holes. I'm quite satisfied with the result (only temporary mockup, emblem is not fully pushed in)
DSC_1085-Kopie.jpg

Ignore the black marks. they were wrong, but after drilling, i decided to give the holes a bit of rust protection by spraing it with some primer. i probably went a bit over board with the sprayed area 🙂
DSC_1086-Kopie.jpg

Time to put it on the car:
DSC_1094-Kopie.jpg

The panelbeater also asked me to install the doors and locks so he can align everything neatly and make sure the panel gaps are nice everywhere.
DSC_1096-Kopie.jpg

And the doors side. Feels good to "assemble" something, even though it is only a temporary mockup with some "scrap" parts. Will be nice to install the other set which is freshly zinc plated or rechromed...
DSC_1095-Kopie.jpg

While working on the doors i also realized there is some rust on the welds inside the door skin. The welds came from the previous panel-beater, who made sure the bodylines are there again. it seems the previous owner also "cleaned" those.
i cleaned the welding spots with a brush and added some rust conversion primer there (no photo of that):
DSC_1117-Kopie.jpg

While sorting through the doors parts i thought it was about time to give my "new" sandblaster a try:
DSC_1089-Kopie.jpg

Worked pretty well, except i realized my compressor is too small. Luckily i already have a deal with my father-in-law to exchange ours (he needs a smaller one, i can have his more powerful one):
DSC_1093-Kopie.jpg

If everything goes well you'll see some picturs of this car being loaded onto a trailer on monday, along with a load of parts. So happy to see the project taking up speed again...

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Finally - the day has come, where the car left the home for the second time for a visit at a bodyshop. This time a different one...
DSC_1137-Kopie.jpg

The agreed timeline is to complete the body until the end of the year (roughly). I said quality comes before a tough timeline, but also they agreed on not letting the car sit in a corner for 5 years like the previous panelbeater did...
The plan is to straighten the chassis, which needs a bit alignment, replace all rusty panels and then add the bodypanels and align all gaps, before having everything dismantled again and ready for the paintshop....
DSC_1138-Kopie.jpg

And until then i'll plan my next steps. They already took some panels with them too, but i'll visit them soon, bring the passenger side door and seat rail for test fit and have a look around their shop.
I'm as motivated as i haven't been in a long while to push this project as far as possible again...
DSC_1142-Kopie.jpg

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