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Jason240z

1970 240z uk project

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Its now getting some paint on

Etch/primer/stone chip/paint/lacquer etc etc. Loads of seam sealer, really hope I don't have to do all this again!

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I love the colour when its out in daylight :)

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As a thread revive.....

 

Its now painted...

 

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I've no idea where to start, I've removed the panels, they're hanging safe.

A couple of bits to sort out.

 

I'm thinking......

protect the box sections with dinitrol

prep and paint chassis subframe parts

Sort suspension

Fit the above

Run loom's

Fit glued on interior parts

fit fuel and brake hoses

tidy and fit tank

 

Sound about right?

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43 minutes ago, Jason240z said:

I'm thinking......

protect the box sections with dinitrol

prep and paint chassis subframe parts

Sort suspension

Fit the above

Run loom's

Fit glued on interior parts

fit fuel and brake hoses

tidy and fit tank

That sounds like a good start..

Good to see you making progress again!

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Wow that fresh paint looks fantastic!  I like matching the spoiler to the car.

That 2x4 holding up the bonnet scares me.  Tie it up to a rafter overhead.  That's how I remove mine and reinstall by myself. 

 

 

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Looks great, all that hard work paid off and now you are into the fun stuff. I know she's pretty but you might consider covering up alot of that beautiful paint work with some old towels and blankets, a scrape or scratch now ...:cry:

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I've taken all the panels off, they're now hanging from the garage roof while I start getting it together.  Its already collected some 'patina'!

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As a thread update, I wasn't happy with some parts of the paint, just some of the finish.

Next week its off have the engine bay media blasted to bare metal then a general going over. 

I've been spending the past year researching and collecting parts to put it together.  I'd like it rolling in the next 3 months.

These should help

 

 

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Nice long springs, full stroke dampers, all just nicely done. 

The suspension is one area i'm really worried about as it will make the car, I value the feel and handling over anything else.  It was lots of research and traveling to see various companies/options.  For me intrax from VA motorsport was the best option as a higher quality, tested and proven setup.  very high quality dampers.

 

https://www.va-motorsport.com/

http://en.intraxracing.nl/merken/datsun/datsun-240z-260z-280z-(nissan-fairlady-z)/dat5503rsa/

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As a small update, the cars away again having the paint sorted.  Had to blast the engine bay back to bare metal.....

While its out of the garage I've started on bits that should speed up getting it rolling.

I made a bearing guide on the lathe to support the control arm after bending one myself.  Took just over 8 tonnes to press it in!

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I had a load of stuff plated.

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Took some advice and just gave a tub full to a company, who cleaned and yellow zinc coated it.  Great work and surprisingly cheap.  Saved me a couple of days work also.  I know the bonnet supports should be body colour but I don't like how the paint can rub off.

36534141621_a4a59590ae_o.jpgIMG_4696 by jason spencer, on Flickr

Finally made my mind up about calipers.  It was helped by the fact the replica mk63's aren't being made any more.

1.8kg vs 4kg.  The should look very subtle behind the wheels.  I'm going to run 280x25mm discs.  I'd like discs and bells but the budget won't allow for now, however I think i've found a disc I can use by just redrilling.  I'm going to buy the cheapest version I can as a test(£25ish), then go for a quality version once I know I can measure correctly.

36277046690_23c2554342_o.jpgIMG_4685-1 by jason spencer, on Flickr

36277046630_a72361a449_o.jpgIMG_4687-1 by jason spencer, on Flickr
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The setup saves 1kg per side which I wasn't expecting given the extra weight of the discs.


Just to compound things. A replacement rear arm i've got has damage/bend and seems to be a couple of mm out so I need an arm again.

I'd like to get all the chassis parts ready to bolt on(ish), when I get the shell back.

Edited by Jason240z

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I'm looking forward to seeing your brake setup. The available kits on the market now don't quite offer what I'm looking for - but what you're doing looks to be very much in line with what I'd like to do.

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Thats the problem I had.   a lot of 'bling' looking setups about, mostly the same as each other.  I wanted something that'd suit a bit more. 

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8 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Stealthy. So what was it about the AP calipers that you liked more than the standard Wilwood  stuff?

In no order.

history, quality, looks, fit, details, colour, weight.  The thing that really did it was that their such a proven caliper in all situations.  Look a little more correct also.

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ETA, The main reason is that a 240z is one of my dream cars, I've also always wanted AP calipers, so i'd put the two together!

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Finally got the car back again.  I had to get all the 'new' paint stripped/engine bay shot cleaned and done again as I had Micro blistering.  Killed by joy for the car for a while.

However its back again now, looking better than ever.  Painter did his best to keep the panel edges crisp where I asked.  Engine bay detail on the paint is about 10x better.

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While its been away, i've been gathering the rest of the parts needed.

I decided to go down the Kameari route for engine parts, good value and the best history for our cars.

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The best thing is the weight saving with forged rods and Kameari pistons

 

 
5166g overall vs 6972std.

34.9593495934(ish)% lighter than stock. All rotating mass. Amazing really given that they're both 'budget' options.
 
 

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Hubs have been made up, struggled with the rears binding, all correct castings and the correct distance piece, ended with with a copper shim to allow nut torque but free rotation.

I've worked out discs for the front.  All fits under a 14" wheel, without wheel spacers.

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Not decided on wheel colour.  I fancy a clash with the orange so I might go a green or gold shade.

 

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To match the intrax suspension, i've got a set of VA-motorsport top mounts.  Give a little more caster/camber, race race proven. 

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Any ideas what caused the blistering? Rust? Solvent entrapment?

The rotors are cool looking with that fish hook type grooving

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2 hours ago, Patcon said:

Any ideas what caused the blistering? Rust? Solvent entrapment?

The rotors are cool looking with that fish hook type grooving

Its not rust!  it was 100000% rust free, looks like moisture in the airline for the paint.  Gutted wasn't the word.  it means its spent over 3 years in paint shops!

That's the past though, I can look forward to putting it together now.

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3 years is a long time!!

I have seen surface rust cause the same thing when they are left in bare metal too long

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On 1/26/2019 at 7:28 PM, Patcon said:

3 years is a long time!!

I have seen surface rust cause the same thing when they are left in bare metal too long

it was only in bare metal about 4 hours.  Its a long time indeed, I often wonder how far along it might have been!

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