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sourcing electrical upgrade parts

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Mike, i'm starting to be confused now, there is tree different topics you have started and they tend to get mixed up, atleast in my head.

Please answer these questions.

1. Is the carbs spilling fuel while cranking ?

2. Have you opened the throttle adjustment screw a quarter of a turn on each carb.?

3. Is your electrical fuel pump running, when the car is ?

Chris

  • Author
Mike, i'm starting to be confused now, there is tree different topics you have started and they tend to get mixed up, atleast in my head.

Please answer these questions.

1. Is the carbs spilling fuel while cranking ?

2. Have you opened the throttle adjustment screw a quarter of a turn on each carb.?

3. Is your electrical fuel pump running, when the car is ?

Chris

Don't worry, I'm confused too ;) The carbs talk doesn't really belong in this thread. The main reason that came up is because the leaking has gotten to the point that I need to stop working on the electrical projects until I get the leak fixed. And I think you brought up the fuel pump. I'll go ahead and answer those questions.

1. yes, the rearmost carb is the worst but all three have gas coming out of the horns. The filter on #3 got totally saturated with gas yesterday.

2. No. I didn't want to work on the carbs yet but the leaking seems to have gotten worse so now I have to do it. I ordered service kits from eurocarbs.com last night.

3. The pump comes on when the ignition switch is turned to "on." It stops running only when the key is turned to "off" or "acc". I pulled the fuse when I was troubleshooting the ignition problem.

I think I have a carb thread so I'll try to keep the carb talk in the carb thread.

Okay, let's continue here assuming that is the topic you are referring to.

Chris

  • Author

If you need bigger pics I have the originals.

wiringsm_011.jpg

wiringsm_012.jpg

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Mike, one or two pics would have been enough, let's take the last one.

You have the fuel pump harness, the relay at the bottom left is what is activated by your starter and altenator, that relay activates the relay at the buttom right, the one with green and black wires.

If you take off the 4 wire plug fron the relay at the left and make a jumper and connect two of the wires (can't remember the colors) your fuel pump should run of the original harness, the black/white goes to your starter, if you find the wire gong to your altenator and leave that out, you should jump the two last, hope it makes sence.

Chris

Mike, one or two pics would have been enough, let's take the last one.

You have the fuel pump harness, the relay at the bottom left is what is activated by your starter and altenator, that relay activates the relay at the buttom right, the one with green and black wires.

If you take off the 4 wire plug fron the relay at the left and make a jumper and connect two of the wires (can't remember the colors) your fuel pump should run of the original harness, the black/white goes to your starter, if you find the wire gong to your altenator and leave that out, you should jump the two last, hope it makes sence.

Chris

  • Author

I must have misunderstood you intent in asking for pics. I thought you wanted pics of the relays you were having trouble getting to get your car going.

I'm happy with the current wiring although I might like to have an oil pressure switch in the circuit to prevent the pump running after an accident. I would need a mean to deactivate it for cold starts though.

It might work to wire in two parallel relays for the fuel pump, one is activated (deactivated) by the oil pressure switch (or better a oil pressure fuel cutout switch which is more sensitive), the second one by the starter solenoid wire. In an ideal world you would have also a timer which activates the fuel pump for 2-4 seconds after ignition is switched on to build up the initial pressure in the fuel system.

A simpler solution might be to integrate an inertia switch (fuel pump shut off switch), which deactives the fuel pump on impact. You can get those switches at race equipment stores, retrofitting them to a car is quite straightforward.

http://www.smartracingproducts.com/catalog/electrical.htm

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=87

  • Author
Resets with a simple push on the top of the switch.

For hard nosed racers no doubt ;)

Those look like good option Adrian but I've pretty much blown the z budget for this month. And maybe next month.

I do want to try that starter relay mod and install an IR alternator. I've got all the parts to do those but first I need to find the other end of that mystery wire on the starter solenoid.

Look at post #43

Relay at left has a black / white wire, this wire ends up on your starter, ohm it out and you will see.

Chris

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

How does this circuit look for headlight relays?

dagram-hdlite.jpg

I forgot to add a fuse.

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