The dreaded spindle pin removal and more!

[MEZZZ]

I pulled out some of the rear suspension last week. My plan is to replace struts, springs, brakes, brake lines, bushings, install the R/T mount, etc.

After some hassle, I got the half shaft bolts out and dropped each side at the lower control arms. I used some penetrating oil on the spindle pin lock pin and let it sit over night. Came out and backed off the nuts and hit it with a hammer and the spindle pins moved fairly easily from side to side. I used a punch and was able to get both out without any issues! I gimped up the ends a little but have an extra set ready to use.

My question lies with the inner and outer bushings. One set slides off very easily, the other side seems to be stuck pretty good. I got a pic off of Atlantic Z where the guy uses a pipe wrench to twist it off (with rubber intact.) I simply sheared the rubber part of the bushing off attempting this.

Any suggestions?

I have no real rust issues underneath the car, it is pretty clean actually.

Also, I am having trouble getting the driveshaft seperated at the flange. I sprayed it heavily a couple times and cant get the nuts to budge, the ones where the bolts are a "D" head. Its seems I cannot get a box end on them, same problem I had at the half shafts until I ground down a couple 14 mm wrenches. Am I looking at the same thing with this or is there an easier way?

Thanks in advance. (Photo courtesy of Atlantic Z Car Club) although this is my favorite site by far

Edited April 24, 2010 by MEZZZ

[Pop's Z]

Here's what I did. Take that 14 mm wrench you ground down. Put it on the nut. Rotate the driveshaft (tranny in neutral) until the wrench contacts the body, or whatever (righty tighty, lefty loosey). Now take a long screwdriver or lever of some kind. Put the end into the u-joint area and use that to turn the drive shaft. The longer the lever the better the mechanical advantage. You will find that the nuts turn very hard the first time you do this if they've never been off. You can only turn the nuts a little bit at a time. Because I'm right-handed I found that I could do this operation from the left side of the car head towards the front. Tighten the nuts the same way only opposite of course. The washers will drop on top of the diffy mount. Wear safety glasses as much crap will fall down into your eyes. Have fun.

Cheers, Mike

Edited April 24, 2010 by Pop's Z

[MEZZZ]

Thanks for the info, I will give that a try. I am thinking the nuts are 12mm that I am attempting to bust free on the driveshaft. I will grind one down and see if I can get your tip to work for me.

Thanks!

[a7dz]

I had to cut the inner sleeve to get it to come off. You have to be very careful not to damage the shaft. I only cut about three quarters of the way through and then split the inner sleeve of the bushing. Right side was the worst.

[MEZZZ]

Here's what I did. Take that 14 mm wrench you ground down. Put it on the nut. Rotate the driveshaft (tranny in neutral) until the wrench contacts the body' date=' or whatever (righty tighty, lefty loosey). Now take a long screwdriver or lever of some kind. Put the end into the u-joint area and use that to turn the drive shaft. The longer the lever the better the mechanical advantage. You will find that the nuts turn very hard the first time you do this if they've never been off. You can only turn the nuts a little bit at a time. Because I'm right-handed I found that I could do this operation from the left side of the car head towards the front. Tighten the nuts the same way only opposite of course. The washers will drop on top of the diffy mount. Wear safety glasses as much crap will fall down into your eyes. Have fun.

Cheers, Mike[/quote']

Mike,

I finally got around to working on my differential removal today. I took your advice and it worked like a champ! Thanks so much for the tip.

Unfortunately, I had to grind down a 12mm to work. 3 of the 4 came off easily, the 4th seems like I had stripped it in my earlier attempt. I ended up cutting with an air saw and that was a pain. I finally thought, put a vice grip on it and torque the shaft like the other 3 and it loosened right up.

I have to have one of the FILTHIEST diffs out there. It was covered in some places with a 1/4 inch of sludge and dirt.

I have everything else out, spindle pins removed, bushings out, brakes taken apart. I scruubed, blasted, sanded and painted everything. Once I get the diff cleaned up and painted, I start the process of putting it all back together.

I got one of the R/T mounts from Dave on here. Then all new bushings, Tokico Illuminas, Eibach springs, s.s. brake lines, new wheel cylinders, shoes, brake hardware, etc. The front end was completely rebuilt last fall, this has been long overdue.

Thanks again for the help.

Edited June 1, 2010 by MEZZZ

[beandip]

Just in case you don't know , and for others that may read this thread. When you reassemble the control arms and spindle pins. Put all together but do not tighten the bushings with the car up off the ground. Lower the car onto the tires and add a couple of hundred pounds into the back of the Z. Then torque everything down. I roll the Z back a few feet then roll it forward and up on 2X6s so I can reach under and use my toque wrench. If you don't do this and torque everything down with the suspension hanging down you will be adding a bunch of twist to the bushings and they will fail prematurely.

Gary

[MEZZZ]

yes, I did read about that. I didnt do it with the front end rebuilt but have put less than 10 miles on it since then.

I asked my wife (and received) a set of ramps for a christmas gift just for that purpose.

Thanks!

Edited June 2, 2010 by MEZZZ

[Pop's Z]

Mark, glad it all worked out for you. I was wrong about the 14mm...it was a 12mm wrench. As a matter of fact I did this just Sunday putting in a "new" F54/N42 combo. What a pita the driveshaft bolts can be. Fan to waterpump, too. My fingers are just not that small.

Cheers, Mike