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Zs-ondabrain

260Z Roof Skin Graft (Thanks Arne)

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    So after receiving my 260Z from the P.O.S. I mean P.O. I found that the roof had been walked on by his neighbor kids. And besides the dents that I did'nt feel confident about fixing myself, it also had it's own fare share of rust, on both sides. So as the title says, Thanks Arne. As his thread on his reroof (skin graft) has given me the confidence to do my own Z in the same manner. And thanks to Ken in Port Orchard (NWZFAN) for the Donor roof from another 260Z.

    So now that Christmas is over, I decided it was time to get back to work. I bought a panel stand at Harbor Freight Tools for for a mere $15 and I'm loving it. I drilled all the way thru each spot weld on the donor roof and peeled the skin away like Anthony Hopkins in a horror flick. Then I flipped it over and cleaned the adhesive off. Pounded the edges true and set it aside to be primered before welding it to the 260Z.

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    Then I started in on the 260Z. Except this time I used a spot weld cutting bit. Drilled a couple spots out then used a heavy gauge scraper to seperate the metals and keep tension on the welds, so they would "Pop up" as soon as the weld cutter cleared the first skin. This kept me from accidentally cutting thru both sheets. (I learned the hard way on the first spot weld)

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    I'll add more to this thread as soon as I grind the spot welds clean, spray weldable primer on those and clean up the surface rust. Just need to figure out if I'm gonna re-Lead or fill the rear seams with fiberglass. Seams like FG would be the better way to go. I got time, we'll see.

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    Well, it's like my momma always used to say, "Dave, If ya put your mind to it, you better have a spatula handy to scrape it back off"

    So I try and make sure I have the tools for the job before tackling something new to me.

    Dave

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    Dont forget to install and line up the rear hatch before starting any welding. The skin can shift slightly so the upper gap isn't square.

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    Hey more pictures of the posses will be great I have a car that the second owners Mom put heave boxes on while in college then he tried to fix it with a dead blow hammer UUUGGGGG. I think it might have been repairable if it wasn't for the hammer.

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    Dave, you might consider using USC Duraglass filler at the seams. It's a good alternative to polyester type body fillers in that it doesn't absorb moisture.

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    GreenZZZ,

    Yup, but it helps to be a Surgeon on the side.

    Ken,

    I'll keep that in mind when I do the fill work. Thanks.

    I should be able to get some work done today, after the shopping and other (Honey Do) things are over with. I'm gonna try and get the grinding done and spray the weldable primer. After that's dry, I'll start aligning everything and notch the new skin to line up just right.

    I'll be back,

    Dave

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    Just for curiosity's sake, did you get any other pics of the structure under the skin? Interested in the area back by the hatch and C pillar...

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    Jon, Took a couple extra for ya. They're at the bottom.

    So I got back out there today and ground down the spot welds, cleaned all the rust and sprayed the exposed metal with weldable primer. Then I fitted the skin to the shell and aligned the front window area first, clamped it down then moved along the sides, which I might add, dropped right inplace. I only had to shave 1/8" off the rear of the panel and they corners dropped in place.

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    More to come after I grind the welds, smooth it out and primer it.

    Dave

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    Edited by Zs-ondabrain

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    Ya, so far........

    Got a little ways to go, finish the welds and gringing, fill the cracks and prime it. I'm almost thinking I should have put the headliner on while the roof was off the car. But then again, I'd like to do the Dynamat on the metal first.

    Thanks again for the inspiration. I almost hurt myself, patting my own back yesterday. LOL

    Dave

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    Dave,

    The re-skin is looking good. It warms my heart to know the roof has a new rust free home on your 260 project. I know it bothers some when I part out a car, but nearly every part lives on with another Z. If we didn't have spare organs, how would we keep our cars alive? You're doing a beautiful job. I'm glad I could help.

    Ken

    P.S to "kenz240z" I have a '71 Series II with a license plate that reads "KENZ240". Too funny. My wife also bought me a t-shirt for Christmas with "Still Plays With Cars" on it. Cracked me up when I saw your signature.

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    Very impressive Dave. I'm curious if you considered using metal bonding adhesive rather than welding during your planning stages, and if so why you chose to weld the top back on? I saw this method used with an early model Mustang last night on a recorded episode of Musclecar and was curious about the pros and cons.

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    Hi, Ken. Great minds think alike! The spare parts are getting harder to find. The Z cars are not showing up in the salvage yards here in northern Colorado like they used to. In fact, one yard crushed out a half dozen or so cars last year :>( I'm starting to consider stockpiling parts in the rafters of my shop. I'd consider buying another Z car or two, but just don't have the space...gotta finish up a few of the others works in progress: 64 Impala, 65 Buick convertible & 73 V8 Z.

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    Very impressive Dave. I'm curious if you considered using metal bonding adhesive rather than welding during your planning stages, and if so why you chose to weld the top back on? I saw this method used with an early model Mustang last night on a recorded episode of Musclecar and was curious about the pros and cons.

    Everything on this project is "On a budget" So when I considered Bonding agent VS Good Ol' fashioned welding, the choice was easy. Welder was in the shop, wallet was empty, no real dispute there.

    I also looked at "Metal Fill"?? or "All Metal"?? an aluminum based filler (bondo) for filling the cracks and such but it was $30 a quart or $100 a gallon, so that was a No Go. And the Dura Glass was also expensive. So I'm gonna mix up some polyester resin with a bunch of cut up fiberglass in the mix, to fill the cracks, Versus doing Lead Work.

    I'm also gonna do the same thing for the Shaved door handles on the doors. I cut out the door handle area's and welded in some formed steel plates, and will fill the low spots with the resin/glass mix. I WON'T use bondo on the doors and roof corners. Too much risk of cracking, shrinking etc.

    KEN, Thanks again for the roof. I myself, am a registered Donor so I totally hear ya. I've bared witness to your Doctoral skills of getting the right parts to the people in need. Too bad Real Doctors don't work that way.

    I'm gonna do some more work on the roof and hatch today so I should be able to report back tonight.

    Dave

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    Hi Zs ondabrain I am not sure if this is the right place for this question but here goes. I am going to be painting my early 260 in the spring. I am painting it orange and absolutly love the color of you car. Would you be willing to tell me the name of this color. There are so many shades of orange it is hard to pick one unless you see it on a car

    Thanks

    Bob

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    My 240Z is actually not Orange. But depending on the light, I can see where you might make the mistake. Anyways, It's a Modified "Chrystler Industrial Red" used on engine blocks back in the 70's, I believe.

    I took a paint sample (Dupli-Color, "DE 1632 Chrysler Industrial Red" Spray can sprayed on a piece of metal) to a paint shop in Everett, WA and told him I wanted "This color but brighter" He said "I can do that" So $100 later, I had a Half gallon of Brighter Orang'ish Red paint.

    But when I paint the 260Z, it'll be Racing Orange from KustomShop. ( http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/kspsb8604.aspx )

    Hope that helps,

    Dave

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    Dave

    Maybe I am color blind and deaf (like my wife seems to think) :) Thats the problem with looking at colors on the computor, every pic. looks different depending on the light. I checked out the color you are going to paint your 260. What a great color! It shows up as almost the same as your 240. I am going to the detroit auto rama at cobo hall in Feb. with any kuck they will have paint suppliers there that have actual samples of their colors Thanks for taking the time to respond to my question

    Bob

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