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Sparx Macgyver

Need some help...

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I don't think the brake lights came on. I'll check that today. The wipers work, but are awfully slow.

For the bleeder valve, I placed a 1/2" hose over the bleeder. I opened the bleeder first, about 1/4 turn, put the hose one, and placed the hose in a container with about 1/2" of clutch fluid in it. doing it that way, we can see when the bubbles stop coming. We kept the fluid filled up, but the bubbles never stopped coming out. It's pretty much the same way I do the brakes.

And I'm going to ask...combi switch?

combi switch = combination switch the one on the right hand side of the steering wheel that controls head lights, wipers, ect.

And the wipers for Zs are notoriously slow and generally only like to move when there wet.

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Ah got ya. I had a feeling that's what it was. And good to know about the wipers. I figured they were just old and dull and needed replacement.

Still working on the brakes, only had enough daylight to do the pass side. Tomorrow, I'll get the driver side drum/shoes traded out. I'm quite ticked at the P.O. for what he did to "fix" the stuck/frozen rear brakes.

I'll have to take a pic or two to show you guys.

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Just a couple more updates.

Since it's too cold to really do much (too dark as well) I went and looked a the fuses in the Fuse Block. Turns out my uncle didn't put a single properly sized fuse in all but a few of them. I flipped through my trusty book and found a diagram of the fuse block, and the proper amp fuse. After about 20 min of checking each fuse to make sure it's the right size and it's a good fuse, I re-connected the batter, and turned the key to the on position. Flicked the lights, and nothing. OK, put the high beams on. Voila, both head lamps are on. Except...wait a sec....Now the pass. light is dull, and the driver is bright.

Turn signals are now almost non-existent. You turn one on, and both just blink twice, and won't do anything more unless you turn them on then off again. Not to mention the volt meter bounces a bit.

Another question: are the running lights supposed to blink if you turn on the signals?

The Fuse Block diagram in my Haynes manual, the Floor Temp Lamp is shown 1 or |, and there's an ST next to it. Anybody know what that is? I can't find it in the book. Is the fuse space supposed to be empty or do I put a fuse in it?

I found this thing attached to my fuse block. I'm sorry for the blurry/crappy pics. I'll take better ones tomorrow. My little digital cam sucks, and I didn't feel like lugging the Nikon D40 down stairs. Anyway, what is that? It looks like a piece of copper wire. It's not connected to anything, just makes a loop. It's sort of twisty-tied to itself.

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Edited by Sparx Macgyver

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And now for those drums. As promised, here's the pics of them. I don't know what he was doing or what he was thinking when he did this but you can see from the pics the damage done to the drum. The damage is to the Drivers side drum. It has several "teeth" broken off and two holes that were drilled into it, right next to each other. The passenger side just looks like it was drilled into a few times.

Far as I can tell, replacing the drums/shoes has solved the brake issue. They no longer seem to be frozen. I still have the volt gauge charge light on, and the e-brake light is on. I even when the car is completely turned off and key is out... both lights stay on...I'm thinking maybe a relay switch somewhere? Have to look at that tomorrow after I replace the CSC.

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Edited by Sparx Macgyver

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It looks like a PO tried to exert his authority trying to remove them. The holes were likely drilled trying to back off the shoes?

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I thing Geezer is correct. I had one of mine lockup and a "mechanic" had to break off the arm to free up the star wheel to get the drum off. I never fixed it and its been like that since 1978. Soon, I will have to fix that now that I am trying to revive the car.

The price of a new wheel cylinder about knocked me over!

I have used a Mity Vac to pull the fluid with great success on Motorcycle brakes. I also have a pressure bleeder that hooks onto the Master Cylinder which is great when your wife dont want to pump no more - the pedal that is.

Edited by oldhemi

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Possible. After looking at that I just kinda went O_O

But it's OK, I guess. I fixed it the right way.

Old hemi, just saw you post.

Yeah, it's up there..

Edited by Sparx Macgyver

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Cleaned my combi switch today. Followed MikeW's instructions. Flipped the switch and lights came on. Hit the high beams on, and they came on. Turned the high beams off/on/off again. And now the headlights are not working right again. We're back to high beams only again. If it helps, when the lights were on, the driver was bright, and pass. was dull.

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I know someone on here will have something to say about this but you "can" drive the car without the clutch functioning correctly. Treat it like a crash box. Apply pressure into the next gear whil gently altering the revs and it will go. BAD BAD BAD though, but if it's an emergency.......

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I suppose...though I think I'll save that trick for dire emergency's only.

Still need to replace the CSC. I have the part, I just need to actually replace it. Unfortunately, the manager of my Apt. complex is strict in that she won't allow any vehicle maintenance. She let's us check oil/transmission, and various little and/or light maintenance, but she won't let us do any heavy work, so I gotta wait till she's not at home to do it.

Looks like Monday will be the time to do it. I hate having to wait to work on my car(s).

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I suppose...though I think I'll save that trick for dire emergency's only.

Still need to replace the CSC. I have the part, I just need to actually replace it. Unfortunately, the manager of my Apt. complex is strict in that she won't allow any vehicle maintenance. She let's us check oil/transmission, and various little and/or light maintenance, but she won't let us do any heavy work, so I gotta wait till she's not at home to do it.

Looks like Monday will be the time to do it. I hate having to wait to work on my car(s).

Why don't you do what I did turn a 10X20 storage unit into a garage. Just find a place ran by some really cool people or find one that no one is their.

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Not a bad idea, AJ. Look into that after work.

I did this with my first 240Z and my second one untill recently when I moved to an apartment with a 17'WX37'DX12'H garage.

When you look for a unit try to get one with an outlet or at least lighting. Also look at ones near switches or outlet receptacles outside. The outside receptacles can handle more power, because they are their for equipment they may need to run. If you get one were the switch is outside the unit you can get them to put a low power outlet inside (usually) if you tell them it's for a battery tender to keep the battery being dead or spilling acid on the ground (two things they would hate). About 15% of storage units will allow you to store cars, check what kind of insurance they have you might want to ad the unit to your renters insurance if they don't have coverage (we are only talking a couple more $ to cover the unit).

Now the unit will cost you more a month, but you would also qualify for collector car insurance. This is provided you own another car and you don't drive it to work. If you think your limited by mile with collector car insurance that is BS, some do but not all. They do however expect you to call and ad more miles if you decide to go over your expected limit. Go with a good collector car insurance you get what you pay for when you compare the collector car insurance to each other (I learned this the hard way). Their is more work to get setup with a collector car policy, but it is worth it, first it is cheap, I pay under $125 a year for a $15,000 value on the car. You get a agreed value so if the car is totaled you don't argue about how much you get paid, it is full coverage on the vehicle. Some companies like Hagertey lobby for collector car rights and have magazines and education materials available to their customers. That reminds me I need to call and have my vehicle policy changed since it wouldn't be on the road for about 6 moths do to restoration I get about 1/2 my money for not driving it.

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An update.

Brakes are bled. No issues there.

Bled the clutch, fired it up, pressed the clutch, and nothing. Pedal was hard to press, so I pushed a bit more, got a "ka-klunk" type feeling and then pressure was gone. No pressure at all again. SO I turn it off, and looking at the bleeder valve, I thought maybe I didn't tighten it enough, so I bleed them again. Same results, pressure again. Ok, cool. So I try to start the car, and now it won't start.

I can hear something turning in the motor and I can hear the fuel pump, but it won't crank over.

So, now it's not cranking and no clutch pressure. Any ideas?

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Make sure the adjuster at the slave going to the bearing push rod is adjusted. If OK, see if any fluid leaked out of the slave or master cylinder. if that is OK take the slave unit out check to see if it is OK if so then check the master. The slave even though it is under the car is easier to remove than the master. My bet that the piston or seals are bad in the mater or slave and fluid is getting by. When you take it out check for any tears, cracks, or soft or hard spots on any of the seals. The slave cylinder is easy to replace and is more likely to weir out. The master is rebuild-able.

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Ok, I'll look at those too.

If it matters, I'm loosing fluid somewhere. It's too dark to locate it tonight, but my MC just empties. Fluid goes somewhere, but I dunno where.

If it helps at all, after the "ka-klunk" feeling, while the car was running, I could place it in gear with no grinding at all.

Should also note my head lights work. Well, sort of. The drivers side is bright while the pass is dull. No change between high/low beams. Also, my turn signal switch is a bit touchy. After I switch from low to high to low again, I gotta wiggle it a bit, but the lights come on.

I should also mention, that when bleeding the brakes, the rear required some good amount of forcing, though allot of particles came out, and brake lines are now full of clean fresh fluid.

Edited by Sparx Macgyver

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Make sure the adjuster at the slave going to the bearing push rod is adjusted. If OK, see if any fluid leaked out of the slave or master cylinder. if that is OK take the slave unit out check to see if it is OK if so then check the master. The slave even though it is under the car is easier to remove than the master. My bet that the piston or seals are bad in the mater or slave and fluid is getting by. When you take it out check for any tears, cracks, or soft or hard spots on any of the seals. The slave cylinder is easy to replace and is more likely to weir out. The master is rebuild-able.

How would I check the bearing push rod? I'm learning as I go..sorry.

I have a new slave cylinder already. I had bought one with the notion form the P.O. that it may be bad, so I picked one up (fairly cheap at my local auto parts place).

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Your 'ka-klunk' happened to me, same symptoms. Master is blown. And the fluid is leaking inside the cab. I was able to get the 2 day old carpet out of the way before being soaked. Hardest part was the clevis pin removal and install. I used a wire hook for removal and needle nose plyers for installation.

Bonzi Lon

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Your 'ka-klunk' happened to me, same symptoms. Master is blown. And the fluid is leaking inside the cab. I was able to get the 2 day old carpet out of the way before being soaked. Hardest part was the clevis pin removal and install. I used a wire hook for removal and needle nose plyers for installation.

Bonzi Lon

Well, that's a let down. Though, it makes sense. The fluid is disappearing, and if it is leaking into the cab, that would explain where it went. OK, so I have a better idea of what to go looking at tomorrow.

Anybody have any idea about the motor? I don't understand it. It fired up, and then 15 min later, nada. She won't fire anymore. I thought maybe it was out of fuel (not really much in there) but it doesn't even crank at all.

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It sounds like a low fuel delivery problem, something may not be letting enough fuel in constantly

I know you replaced the filter, pump and fuel did you ever check the screens in the carbs? To do that on the float their is around thing that has a 90 that you hook the fuel to if you take the bolt off the end and pullit apart you will find some screens clean them out if they have a lot of stuff clean them to valve in the float also.

Try this as soon as it is about to stall squirt some gas in the float chamber and see if it keeps going if yes the it is a flow problem

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How do you get the master to unhook from the bloody pedal assembly? I can't get the flipping thing to let go, so I can't remove the MC to remove/inspect/replace it? I can't seem to get it to come apart.

Meanwhile, I noticed a yellow wire not connected to the starter motor. Lovely. Connect it, still nothing. Just the whirring noise in the motor and the fuel pump hum. Went back, and inspected the wire. Turns out where the connector is on the wire (where it connects to the starter motor), the wire is cut. Well, maybe not cut, but it's not connected all the way. Would it be safe to cut off the wire and attach a fresh section of wire to it?

And the hunt continues to repair the car to road worthiness.

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Meanwhile' date=' I noticed a yellow wire not connected to the starter motor. Lovely. Connect it, still nothing. Just the whirring noise in the motor and the fuel pump hum. Went back, and inspected the wire. Turns out where the connector is on the wire (where it connects to the starter motor), the wire is cut. Well, maybe not cut, but it's not connected all the way. Would it be safe to cut off the wire and attach a fresh section of wire to it?

And the hunt continues to repair the car to road worthiness.[/quote']

That sounds like the starter is not engaging the flywheel. You might want to take the starter out and test it

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The car came with a spare starter motor, so I'll take the one off the car, and the spare, to the auto parts place and let'em check'em both.

Still, what about the wire? can I just cut the old and put a new one in?

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The car came with a spare starter motor, so I'll take the one off the car, and the spare, to the auto parts place and let'em check'em both.

Still, what about the wire? can I just cut the old and put a new one in?

You can cut and splice a new wire in, just don't cut corners and make sure you use the right gage wire or you can burn out the car. I would recommend replacing bad wire. I knew a guy in high school who burned up a 66 Mustang, because he didn't want to replace the worn out wire, because it was the original. That was the last day we spoke on good terms he was a guy that hated when someone was wright and he was wrong.

I told him I'd help out with the car never told him he scewed up I just found another mustang in a junk yard and asked if he would like to get parts and fix it up again, he junked it.

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Yikes. Poor 'Stang.

I fixed the starter issue. I had the connector backwards... -_-

Now to do the clutch issue.

Bonzi Lon,

I can't seem to find where its leaking into the cab. Couldn't detach the mc from the pedal, but it doesn't appear to be leaking into the vehicle..

Maybe I should just replace both mc and sc...

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