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JohnnyO

920 Gold

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John,

I built the rotisserie. It was more than sufficient for a body of this weight. I even bolted the entire undercarriage on the body before taking it off of the rotisserie a month or so ago. Wheels came from Harbor Freight. I'll attach some pics.

If you're interested, I can get measurements for you.

Terry

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Terry,

I would like measurements. That looks like one of the simplest designs I have seen. It looks like 2 engine stands that have been modified fo hold a Z.

By the way, I am in awe of your Z. I am hoping to be where you are now by next spring. Started last November.

John

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I think that maybe the original colors were affected by the color of the primer. I would use a very light gray or even white for the gold. Even the correct mix would surely be different over medium gray especially in a single stage. jmo

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Theramz, you're right about the primer color affecting the final color. When we did sample boards we used the same primer. I'll have to check with my painter, but I think it was light gray.

John, I'll get the dimensions for you. My nephew has the rotisserie down in SC now but I'll either call him or measure it when I'm there in a couple weeks. My car is moving along quickly now. I just took an early out from work so am "retired" and can dedicate more time to it. Just dropped the engine back in yesterday. I started tearing down my car over 4 years ago, but didn't touch it for over 2 years due to work schedule, etc. Just got back on it last November.

Terry

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I don't think the early paints were as effected by primer. My car is bue and the primer is red oxide. Maybe you could have a white primer tinted to make it really "pop". Your engine bay detail is over he top beautiful!!

I would also like to have the plans for your rotisserie.

Tom

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John..

I am finding the same issues matching my orange Z. The car is at the body shop now. It looks like we may be using the tool lid to match the color--as the exterior is not actually 918.

The outside of my Z was repainted orange in 1984--and I had always assumed it was a close match to the original color. It wasn't until I removed the quarter windows--and found the original paint beneath them--that I realized that the '84 paint job was quite a bit off!

What difference does a 2 stage (base/clear) have on the final appearance? Does the clear make the color deeper? Is there more shine? Or is the clear merely a protective coating?

Edited by Rich1

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More shine and depth to base/clear jobs. You can also get a better finish if you lay more coats of clear on then wetsand all orangepeel out. Nothing better than a quality paintjob that has been fully wetsanded and buffed out IMO.

This thread has made my decision to dimantle my car this winter and build the rotisere. I also plan on doing the bedliner undercoating in the same color.

I just need to decide whether to stick with the orange or go with my other favorite "cactus green"............

Edited by five&dime

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Matching an original color is next to impossible without an expert eye and a perfect sample. Paint changes hue with age no matter where it is. A 2 stage is the best but your stuck with the end result unless you sand it all off. I was at Hot August Nights and looked at no less than 1000 cars. I saw some very expensive paint jobs with flaws resulting from poor prep work. Paint flaking off in corners etc. You have one shot at it so spend the time on the prep.

Eastwood has a forum to help with all that stuff. I go to the auotmotive paint store for help and I'm sure your town has one with a guy that knows all about it.

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A quick point about color variations - the lighting will make a difference when comparing colors. Avoid comparing the color chips from the paint supplier's book to your sample while standing inside at the counter under the flourescent lights. For best results, do your color comparisons outside in the sunlight. Take a look at the two photos of my orange '73. The paint almost looks red under the flourescent lights in the garage.

The primer can affect the color, so it's best to use a light primer with light color paints. Keep in mind that most paint systems allow you to tint the primer with the base color so that fewer color coats will be required for a basecoat/clearcoat paint job. With a bc/cc paint job you only need to spray enough color coat to achieve a uniform appearance. The clear coat seals it, adds depth & shine and provides a durable finish. You could tint the primer if you are using a single stage paint, although you need to apply enough coats to achieve a uniform color and a durable finish. Too thin could cause problems down the road.

I agree with five&dime, there is nothing better than a bc/cc paint job that has been wet sanded perfectly smooth & buffed to a super high gloss. For those pursing a stock appearance this would be over-restoration on a Z car, considering the cars did not come from the factory with show quality paint.

I've had no problem getting single stage paint from my local PPG supplier. And I've had very good luck with the PPG Omni value line of paints. The key, as theramz pointed out, is in the prep work. Expensive paint will be wasted on a car that has had poor body work and poor prep work. Don't paint your car black unless it is PERFECTLY straight or every ding, wave and ripple will stand out like a sore thumb. Lighter colors are more forgiving about the imperfections.

I did my first Z in an orange basecoat/clearcoat, including the engine bay. I'm working on another Z that I plan to use bc/cc on the body exterior and will use a single stage in the same color for wheel wells, door/hatch jams, interior, underside of hood and engine compartment. I've already sprayed the interior and wheel wells. I've got a little body work to do before I can spray the body...

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Theramz, you're right about the primer color affecting the final color. When we did sample boards we used the same primer. I'll have to check with my painter, but I think it was light gray.

John, I'll get the dimensions for you. My nephew has the rotisserie down in SC now but I'll either call him or measure it when I'm there in a couple weeks.

Terry

The primer that I stripped was light grey on top of red oxide. I am going to get a quart of your formula and paint the inside with it. I will start with the floor boards and tranny tunnel. I have some very nice paint examples that were under the vinyl on the strut towers. This paint appears to be the color I am expecting so I hope it hasn't faded or darkened alot.

The dimensions would be great. Not too big of a rush, I won't be working on the floor pan supports and under carraige for a little while.

Thanks for the help.

John

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John,

I built the rotisserie. It was more than sufficient for a body of this weight. I even bolted the entire undercarriage on the body before taking it off of the rotisserie a month or so ago. Wheels came from Harbor Freight. I'll attach some pics.

If you're interested, I can get measurements for you.

Terry

That's truly first class, and far exceeds what I'm doing.

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Finished a total restoration of my 5/70 build 240Z #3833 last year. The car is Datsun 920 "Safari Gold". After we finished stripping the car and revealed the paint in the previously covered areas, I was somewhat surprised to see that those areas were "brighter" than the exterior. Using the unexposed paint as a sample, we matched it with PPG urethane single stage, applied 5 coats, wet sanded and rubbed (a lot!). I think the results were outstanding (pic attached). I am positive if we had simply ordered the 920 gold without color matching, it would have been a darker tint than it was supposed to be. I also think that the chemistry of modern paint is so much more advanced than it was back in the late 60s/early 70s, that it will hold truer over time.

And as far as I can tell, 920 Safari Gold was only available on the 240Z from 10/69 mid 1971. It was also available on the 510 in that time frame.

FWIW

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Edited by zcar70

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The color is beautiful, but seems lighter and less brown than the original Safari Gold. It could be the light but the attached seems to be closer (IMO).

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Do you know if the guy above did a color match or used a code card from the 70's? The reason I ask is that the color in your picture (post 38) looks similar to the samples I have seen from the PPG cards from the 70's.

John

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J.0. ........That car is out of Woodlands Texas....the owner is named Frank....Zedyone originally posted the picture and I liked it so much I saved it. When I asked him what he used he said 920 gold with 3 coats of clear...I just P.M.'d him and asked if he would respond on this forum. Hope he responds so we can get details...his car is certainly close to a perfect match of 920 gold (IMO).

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Zcar70. My dad and I both love the color of your car. We both agree that shade looks better than the factory color. Do you have the formula???

It's beautiful!!!

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Thanks for the compliment. All I can tell you is that we used a paint sample from under the dash and the paint matching computer came up with this. The color seems to "pop" more than the original enamel. I really think that it is due to today's superior paint chemistry. The old paint seemed to darken a bit over time. I didn't notice it much until we stripped the car.

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Evening all ,I have been following this thread for a while and the more pics I see of 920 gold ,the more I like it . My Feb-71 #23215 was gold and thankfully some of it still remains . The light in these shots don't really show as well as they could although you can see what untouched paint looked like in 71 . The exterior of the car has been repainted black but everything else still is there as factory condition . If I ever did a complete teardown like the car from Michigan I would seriously consider the 920 as well .

And yes for those who might be wondering , that is the original Bridgestone laying there in the tub .

See ya and always love to see the beautiful work that is being done to these Z's .

Chris

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Apologies for the delay. Haven't been here for a spell.

My Z is 920 with a bit of gold metal-flake tossed in to give it a bit more snap in sunlight. The paint brand is PPG, Deltron 2000 line. The now-faded label says "OEM 920 Nissan."

Hope this helps and is timely to some of you.

Frank

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And yes for those who might be wondering , that is the original Bridgestone laying there in the tub .

See ya and always love to see the beautiful work that is being done to these Z's .

Chris

Chris,

Nice Bridgestone, but I have a general comment about securing the spare tire in the tub.

Is it just me. It seems that, more often than not, when someone posts a picture of the spare tire, the hold down bracket appears to be installed upside down with the rubber protected edge of the hold down facing upward, instead of down and against the steel wheel for protection.

Interested in opinions if I have this all wrong.

Dan

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Finished a total restoration of my 5/70 build 240Z #3833 last year. The car is Datsun 920 "Safari Gold". After we finished stripping the car and revealed the paint in the previously covered areas, I was somewhat surprised to see that those areas were "brighter" than the exterior. Using the unexposed paint as a sample, we matched it with PPG urethane single stage, applied 5 coats, wet sanded and rubbed (a lot!). I think the results were outstanding (pic attached). I am positive if we had simply ordered the 920 gold without color matching, it would have been a darker tint than it was supposed to be. I also think that the chemistry of modern paint is so much more advanced than it was back in the late 60s/early 70s, that it will hold truer over time.

And as far as I can tell, 920 Safari Gold was only available on the 240Z from 10/69 mid 1971. It was also available on the 510 in that time frame.

FWIW

Why is the rear spoiler black?

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Apologies for the delay. Haven't been here for a spell.

My Z is 920 with a bit of gold metal-flake tossed in to give it a bit more snap in sunlight. The paint brand is PPG, Deltron 2000 line. The now-faded label says "OEM 920 Nissan."

Hope this helps and is timely to some of you.

Frank

Frank, what kind of metal flake did you add, and how much?

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