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Floor Rear Frame Repair?


hogie

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I just picked up a 72 240z and noticed some wonderful frame repairs after the fact.

For the most part the rust is just on the surface and can be easily removed. However there are a couple of areas that I am very concerned about. These next two pics are the back edge of the floor pans as it rises up above the axle.

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I am betting these are important for structural strength, but I searched and didnt see any posts pertaining to repair/replacement of the rear frame rails. If i just chop out the rust and re-weld as opposed to rivet these back to the pan will it be safe or is a replacement piece available?

Thanks

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I had this same issue with my '72 and, even though I was using Charlie Osbourne's (Zedd Findings) floor pan parts, they didn't go back as far as the rot. I ended up bending some replacement panels and adding them in. I'll be able to add in some pix tomorrow if you're interested.

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same here. Charlie Osbornes panels didn't go far enough back, or far enough forward, but it wasn't too hard to fab up the necessary panels, especially since it wasn't me doing it ;) You have to think of those panels as patch panels that will get your floors looking fairly original, because they have the right stampings. The pedal box and rears of the floors are not included.

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I tried to post this yesterday, but had connectivity issues.

My car (HLS30-46372) is an early '72 (9/71 build date) but it was assembled with leftover '71 parts, such as horizontal defroster wires and non-retractable selt belts (no idiot light in the fuse box cover either). However, the chassis had pockets for the belt retractors.

In fixing the floor rust I went with pans from Charlie Osborne (Zedd Findings) but I chose Bad Dog Parts frame rails and rear extensions because they are much thicker and I want as much stiffness under my butt as possible.

I decided to have the seat belt retractor pockets removed (a) because they are unnecessary for my purposes and (B) because they seem to provide a lovely spot for damp crud to collect and start the rust monster up all over again. You can also see in the pix that we simply used flat panels to bridge the gaps between where the floor pans ended and the good chassis metal resumed. A bit of the work is out of sight now as there's a layer of Sherwin-Williams Duraglas over the interior work.

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Thanks, l may have to pick up a pair of those bad dog rails. They look like they would add a good deal of stiffness.

you might want to email him first, i found out his wont work but he sent me somewhere that will

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