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firing order with photos


MEZZZ

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I am really disgusted right now though with the process. I guess I will walk away from it for a bit :(

Probably a good idea to take a breath of fresh air at this point. Don't forget about all of the progress that you have made thus far! Also, you really don't want to sell it when it's not running, so, get it back on the road at your convenience and take some time to enjoy it!

Just for kicks (and based upon an error that I made once), I must ask 'are you sure that there is enough gas in the tank?'

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Probably a good idea to take a breath of fresh air at this point. Don't forget about all of the progress that you have made thus far! Also, you really don't want to sell it when it's not running, so, get it back on the road at your convenience and take some time to enjoy it!

Just for kicks (and based upon an error that I made once), I must ask 'are you sure that there is enough gas in the tank?'

Thanks for the kind words...I was very frustrated yesterday to say the least. I cant sell the thing, I would lose way too much as I overpaid for it to begin with, plus shipping. I made up my mind just to suck it up and throw some good money after bad, it is a fairly straight car, I've seen much worse.

And yes, I thought about the gas too, its reading about 1/8 tank. I actually put a gallon or so in it last week after replacing the fuel filter becasue that thought entered my head and she finally kicked over. I did the same thing yesterday with no luck. I am trying to keep the fuel down just in case I have to (dreaded thought), pull the tank.

I'm off in a little bit to go buy a few diagnostic tools, fuel pressure guage, circuit tester. I will prevail eventually, or, find a mechanic to do it for me :(

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Thanks for the correction Stephen. MEZZ, I'm just stuck on the thought that if it's a later head and with all the PO misinformation about the car, does it have all the correct electrical connections and you still have not confirmed if you are using the 75-77 AFM or the later style. I'm assuming, and shame on me for that, that you are using the 75-77 AFM because you said your car was running. The reason is the fuel pump contacts are in the AFM for the 280z. The only things on these FI cars that I can think that would cause a rich condition would be low ignition voltage, incorrect or non-sufficiant data for the ECU e.g., the temp sensor. I concur with taking a breath and your time. The answers will come. They always do. Dan

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Thanks for the correction Stephen. MEZZ, I'm just stuck on the thought that if it's a later head and with all the PO misinformation about the car, does it have all the correct electrical connections and you still have not confirmed if you are using the 75-77 AFM or the later style. I'm assuming, and shame on me for that, that you are using the 75-77 AFM because you said your car was running. The reason is the fuel pump contacts are in the AFM for the 280z. The only things on these FI cars that I can think that would cause a rich condition would be low ignition voltage, incorrect or non-sufficiant data for the ECU e.g., the temp sensor. I concur with taking a breath and your time. The answers will come. They always do. Dan

Thanks Dan. I wnet out and looked at it, it is part #a-31-060-001 for L28, stamped on it. I did a google search with no results coming back and then I did a search on here and found an old post from Sblake01 with a drawing of the connector. Without pulling it back off, I remember that the pins were all the way across, none missing, so I am assuming it is for a 75-77.

The car was running fine when I bought it last September, I drove it home from the shipping terminal, (about 20 miles), drove it about 25 the next day back and forth from work. I noticed the next day it seemed to be running a little off, then the next day it was missing badly. I had changed the oil and filter up to that point and I also did some cleaning of the engine bay. I did pull the AFM to clean the boots (the PO had spray painted the car, right through the hood vents and there was silver paint everywhere!). Not long after that the car started running worse.

I am thinking maybe i forget a ground on it, so over the past week I removed it, cleaned the connectors and the ground wires very good. Checked the boots for cracks, put it all back together and now i cant get it to fire, it turns but thats it.

I checked this morning for spark with a test light and all 6 plugs are getting juice. That leads me to think its a fuel issue. I couldnt hear the fuel pump "click" when I turn the key but have listened before for it when the car was running and never could. The injector wires have seen better days and need replacing, probably the injectors themselves while I am there.

I am thinking of getting some starter fluid and seeing if I can get it to fire, what do you think? From there, as much as I hate to think about it, start replacing things until I get it, injector wires, injectors, fuel pump, wires for thermotime switch, pull the tank, etc :(

My knowledge is limited, but with this board and all the great people on here I am learning. Spark, fuel, air...I know that much. :)

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Registering 1/8th tank of gas showing on the instrument isn't very much. I don't know beans about EFI, but before replacing anything I would first make sure that fuel is actually flowing, and at the pressure needed. If your tank has crud in it, the inlet or the filter in the inlet side of the fuel pump could be clogged... perhaps the fuel pick-up in the tank has corroded through and you are sucking air? Start at the origin of the supply and work forward would be my suggestion. The advice often offered up at this site is to start with the simple things and eliminate them first before throwing fists full of money at it. (Again, I speak from having a similar experience where I approached things from the wrong end and wasted lots of time.)

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Sounds like a good place to start again, but instead using staring fluid use some gas dribbled into the air filter. Starter fluid is so nasty! If she starts and runs for a few seconds you know your gettin closer. After re-reading your previous posts noting that your sure it has gas I'm starting to lean towards the dreaded gas tank gremlin. YOur car is showing the exact same symptoms as did mine, a 76, and because I'm poor I couldn't have my tank professionally refurbished, so I came up with my own method and since I've posted the procedure here before I won't bore anyone with the details, but you can p.m me and I'll fill you in. After all it seems like you've done everything else to eliminate it down to fuel supply. Hope I can help, Dan

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Thanks John and Dan for the insight and the encouragement. I had to play "family guy" yesterday since it was Fathers Day :) so I didnt really have much time to play around with it. I will do a search Dan on your gas tank fix, I did see that POR15 has a kit out to refurbish it, so if I have to go that route and pull it, I will be going it on my own. I too dont have a lot of $jack$ laying around for this project so I have to do everything I can think I can do and only as a last resort (i.e welding) hire a pro to do it.

Maybe I'll try the little gas and see if she at least tries to catch.

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I was able to get her to fire and run for a second here and there using starter fluid, spraying into the intake past the AFM. It would fire and then die, I could get her to fire just about every time doing this.

I pulled the fuel line from the top of the brand new fuel filter and dropped the line into a jar and cranked it a few times and not a drop of fuel came out. I did have fuel come out when I disconnected the line from the line itself and from the metal line it runs into going to the fuel rail.

Is it safe to assume that I either have an issue with my fuel pump, clogged line or (worse yet) gas tank? Should I see fuel squirting out when I crank it?

I looked for a fuel pressure guage but all I found was labled "for most cars except Bosch and certain GM cars.

Thanks!

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You should definately see fuel spurting out under those conditions. At that point, it's unregulated and should fill that jar pretty quickly. The problem could also be in the circuit that controls the fuel pump. You can make your own fuel pressure gauge with a brass tee, an couple of 1/4" hose barbs for 5/16" hose, and a gauge availavle at most any hardware store and it'll cost much less than anything you can buy at an auto parts store. I've been using one like that for years.

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You should definately see fuel spurting out under those conditions. At that point, it's unregulated and should fill that jar pretty quickly. The problem could also be in the circuit that controls the fuel pump. You can make your own fuel pressure gauge with a brass tee, an couple of 1/4" hose barbs for 5/16" hose, and a gauge availavle at most any hardware store and it'll cost much less than anything you can buy at an auto parts store. I've been using one like that for years.

Okay Stephen, an update.

I turned the key to the on position, cant hear the fuel pump running. I bought a multimeter a couple days ago and checked the green/black wires running to the pump from the bullet connectors that run into the old storage bin behind the passenger seat. I got no reading.

I took a hot lead from the battery and touched the positive (green wire) terminal of the fuel pump and I could hear it running. I wnet back up to the engine bay and I can hear a slight "humming" from the dropping resistor located behind the windshield fluid tank. Then I took the lead off the battery, put it back on and after about 2 seconds I heard a hissing noise, like air leaking and I tracked it to the pressure regulator. If I slightly wiggle the pressure regulator, the hissing becomes a bit more pronounced. I looked at the lines and see no visible cracks, etc.

I cranked the car about 4-5 times (I have it on a battery charger with a "jump start mode" and it is only good for 2-3 cranks before it needs to recharge again and could not get it to fire up. Evertime I tried to crank it, I hooked up the hot lead to the fuel pump as well.

I will try again tomorrow using jumper cables vs. the charger as I wont have the constant interuptions waiting for a recharge of the battery. I was hoping that I could get it to crank once I discovered the fuel pump issue.

One thing I read with interest tonight in the Haynes manual was the saftey belt interlock system, claiming it wont allow the car to start unless it is in neutral and the belt fastened. I saw the location of the overide switch but though "maybe if I fasten the belt :)

Can you please give me direction from here? Could it be the relay? Not sure why I dont get power to the fuel pump r where to go from here, your advice (as well as others) is always appreciated.

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