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Taking out the diff?


theianmonster

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You have to drop the front and rear control arm brackets (the front bracket also has the front diff mount built in), but the arms themselves can stay on the car. The stock setup is really really badly designed for working on the diff. 510s and 280ZXs are MUCH easier.

Sorry, but there is no magic trick. It's just a PITA.

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I've done it on the early cars (with the flat mustache bar) by simply pulling the two nuts holding the diff to the M-bar and dropping the front crossmember. Not too tough, I didn't think.

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Or more simply put.....

Unbolt the driveline from the diff

Put a jack under the diff

Remove the 4 bolts holding the front diff mount

Remove the 2 big nuts that hold the diff to the mustache bar.

Remove the 4 nuts on each side of the diff holding the axles to the diff.

Slide the diff forward to get the two bolts to slide out of the mustache bar

Then lower the diff and pull it out from under the car.

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Hmm... seems to me like the strap was in the way when I tried it the way you guys are describing. Maybe that has to do with poly mustache bar bushings or something. Then again it could be that I was doing it the hard(er) way for no good reason. Try it on a 510 or a ZX and I think you'll agree it's a bit more of a chore on the Z though.

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The strap sits over the diff in case the front diff mounts breaks, As far as I know, It keeps the diff from hitting the body in case of mount failure.

I had to do it three times in a row so I got my instal and removal practice hours in. Now I may have to do it again when I get my Quaif ATB LSD diff rebuilt. Yah fun. NOT!!

Dave.

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The strap sits over the diff in case the front diff mounts breaks, As far as I know, It keeps the diff from hitting the body in case of mount failure.

I had to do it three times in a row so I got my instal and removal practice hours in. Now I may have to do it again when I get my Quaif ATB LSD diff rebuilt. Yah fun. NOT!!

Dave.

Hey thanks! I was wondering what that strap was for!

I just swapped out my diff a couple of weeks ago. I did it just like Zs-ondabrain describes, axles, driveshaft, front mount and the two rear bolts. The only thing that was a real pain in the butt was getting at the driveshaft bolts.

I highly advise soaking down all the nuts and bolts with a good penetrating oil, preferably overnight or longer. It helps big time on old car nuts and bolts, nothing sucks worse than rounding off a really hard to get to nut or bolt. It can turn a fairly simple job into a nightmare from hell.

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Two guys can remove and install a 240Z R180 diff in 30 minutes. One person can do it in 45 minutes to an hour. I've done it many times between sessions at a race track. Just sucks to have a hot diff laying on your chest as you wiggle out from under the car.

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Two guys can remove and install a 240Z R180 diff in 30 minutes. One person can do it in 45 minutes to an hour. I've done it many times between sessions at a race track. Just sucks to have a hot diff laying on your chest as you wiggle out from under the car.

That paints a very funny picture in my mind. I've been there minus the heat, and did the same thing with the tranny. It's a bit heavier though and probably a lot more fun to watch. I'm glad nobody saw me. LOL

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That paints a very funny picture in my mind. I've been there minus the heat, and did the same thing with the tranny. It's a bit heavier though and probably a lot more fun to watch. I'm glad nobody saw me. LOL

Hehe, I am my own tranny jack as well. I'm sure it's amusing for bystanders to watch...LOL

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In the event that the driveline bolts are a pain, and please corect me if this is wrong as I am recalling this from memory, you can remove the half-shafts and follow the steps minus unbolting the driveline, then pull the driveline and the diff out as one unit as the drive line slides outa the tranny.

Watch for fluid running out after the drive linecomes slides out as this is a mess in the works.

~Brian

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Agreed, but my 4 bolts are so messed up from the previous owner's install that I think that I am ahead by doing that!

There is noise from the backlash being off in the rear end anyway and I think that the chances of the pinon nut being backed off are slim...

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Agreed, but my 4 bolts are so messed up from the previous owner's install that I think that I am ahead by doing that!

There is noise from the backlash being off in the rear end anyway and I think that the chances of the pinon nut being backed off are slim...

Have you searched "diff clunk"? There are lots of reasons that you might get a clunk when you go from off throttle to on throttle, and I can't remember anyone ever finding out that the problem was backlash. Backlash is set by shims on the sides of the pinion, not by the pinion shims or nut torque. Usually that clunking noise is the diff mount/strap, the control arm bushings, a bad u-joint, or worn splines on the stub axles.

BTW I think I figured out why mine was such a bitch. I have a 70 and I moved the diff back and swapped it for an R200 but didn't move the strap back (figured that one out years later). I actually had to jack the front of the diff up to stretch the strap over the front of the diff until I could get the front diff crossmember bolts in. So yeah, the strap was in the way, and yeah, I was being a dumbass.

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Yea I thought of all those things, the only reason that I am going with a gearing issue is that there is a kind-of high pitched howl that just about makes you want to jump outa the cabin tooling down the road.

Also, when I am almost rolling to a stop, you can actually hear the gears in the diffy almost as if they are not "meshing" together right....

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