body strengthening

[240kconvertible]

I'm aiming for the same amount, shouldn't be too hard to get. I expect we'll be doing high 12's to low 13's with that kinda power.

I sold an RB30 block recently for $200 the bastard only wanted the block so I still have the head ecu gearbox etc etc in my garage.

The vert is now booked in for early september with SWR to get the engineering side of things done so hopefully should get on the road for summernats next year.

[khughes]

that is good to know they do engineering there (i guess that solves my who should engineer the car question).. did they give you an idea on price of engineering? pm me if you don't want to discuss publically..

hehe.. do you want a spare RB30 head then? (in all seriousness i think it is time for a rubbish dump run)

[240kconvertible]

Heh heh I know it's due for the bin but there are so many other things that should go with the head that I can't be bothered starting. There are 2 engines to get rid of, 1 x gearbox, 4 x lancer mags, assorted hilux parts, truck petrol tank, assorted rb30 parts and 7 rims & tyres. I really should list it on ebay with $0.01 cent reserve and get some other sucker to pick it up.

In regards to the engineering I don't really have a price for certain yet, Trent didn't even want to start on it for a while due to other commitments, these being 3 x 180b rally specials and 1 x 240z rally special for a rally in Kenya. The job has grown quite a bit from my inital 3k quote from the original engineer who fuc&*d me around.

I emailed them a list (check below) of what I want done and a price I'm happy to pay and they didn't seem scared and we're willing to take on the job. Although nothing is in writing and the start date is still a while away.

List of Mods I offered $5500 to complete

(1) fitment of 300zx rear cradle, diff, suspension and brakes.

The rear arches will need to be widened, and holes cut out for the shocks + mounting points as well as 4 new mounting points fabricated for the cradle & tail shaft connected.

(2) fitment of R31 front crossmember, suspension, rack & pinion steering.

The steering would need to be connected - column to rack, crossmember & suspension made to fit

(3) fitment of engine and gearbox

Mounts would need to be made for both. The front firewall and tunnel will need to be cut to allow room for the gearbox bellhousing. I would like the front cylinder of the V8 to be in line with the front axle line. I have placed a bare block inside the engine bay and it appears that it will fit quite nicely.

(4) A pillar to B pillar support bar fabricated

(5) Brake booster master cylinder & lines + upgrade to hoppers style kit for front end.

As you can see there is a heap of work to be completed and SWR has asked for 2 months to complete it. Summernats is now off the cards for another year sadly. When it's completed I'm going to ask Alfa for verfication on weather or not it is the most modded C110 around I'm quietly confident he won't be able to find one with more mods :classic:

[khughes]

wow.. i would be hugely impressed if they could pull that off for what you want to pay!

i got them to do fitting of R34 front calipers and disks, fit camber plates, supply and fit front shock inserts, fabricate gearbox mount, fit DR30 brake booster, fabricate driveshaft, R200 moustache bar and bushes, fit 260Z rear stubs/half shafts, supply and fit rear disks ($2500 alone), fabricate 1/2 roll cage.. i think that was it.. but it came to double what you are looking at..

i was happy to pay it, they do great work, but it certianly was a rude shock when i found out how much i had to fork over, it was around $3k more than i had expected.. but then again you pay for what you get

i still need to get my R200 diff fixed, get larger driveline bolts installed, and have the driveshaft binding issue fixed.. but i know when i book it back into them i may get carried away again and spend a fortune

[240kconvertible]

So would I

You should have put a whole rear cradle into yours as Trent agreed that $1500 would be enough for fitment of the cradle without brakes connected. I get the feeling he didn't take into account the arch flaring though. I'll probably end up doing the flaring of the rear guards myself and also the A - B pillar supports to save costs.

I think that when they see the car for the first time and we discuss all the mods the price may vary. $2500 sounds a bit steep for rear disc upgrade though.

The cheapest way to get it all done is to go to a welder/boiler maker and then get an engineer to sign off on it all. I wasn't happy to go this route because of the risk of not having the wheels in the right position. You'd be surprised at how cheap this route is.

Do you know what they were charging you an hour? The price you've mentioned seems a bit high for the work you've had carried out. For example you can get 2 tailshafts cut and welded together & balanced from $250 in sydney and Hoppers bolt up kits from $1100 for brakes, at least I know that your happy with the finished result and I can go to sleep knowing my wheels will be aligned properly. . . . . . . . . I'll start preparing for a rude shock

[khughes]

the 1/2 cage was about $1250 from memory, the brake setup on the rear was a kit thing that they do, using falcon disks and commodore calipers with the banksia brake.. the tailshaft was around $900 i think for a custom 1 piece balanced etc. um.. i think the front shocks cost me came in at under 1k (it wasn't a straight forward replacement).. i think the rear moustache bar was around $300 or so.. the rest was for labour and bits and bobs.. i can't remember the labour charges, but i have a reciept somewhere...

fitment of the rear cradle will be interesting, can't wait to see it done.

[240kconvertible]

The tailshaft sounds like a nice little bit of equipment. I would be interested to find out what they charged you an hour for all that work.

It will be nice to get the engineering stage completed as I've been waiting for 4 months already. The 300zx cradle is a lot wider than the standard one and I'm having trouble deciding weather or not to put the plastic flares on or flare the steel in the arches to accomodate the new cradle. What do you think?

I was leaning away from the flares as the front wheels won't stick out as far as the rear ones will when the new suspension goes in and I get the feeling they won't fill the flares at the front without spacers.

[Noddle]

Are you a Handy Man, have access to a workshop, welder, oxy etc..?

why not make one your self ?

I was looking into making one, done some rough drawings to get an idea what I needed, This may give you an idea on how to make one

Nigel

Sorry for dragging up and old thread, but I'm been slowing making my strut brace,

I had these laser cut out of 6mm mild steel, I think its a bit thick, but not seeing one in the flesh, I'm not sure of the correct thickness,

these cost me $25, pretty good I though.

I have a .DWG (Auto Cad) drawing if any one wants it.

Nigel

[Requiemk]

All i don't see any problem in bringing up old threads in this forum. Yes please would love a cad of that AM not to sure on if its thick but if its already made up no point changing, thickness wont affect anything in my point of view.

[Noddle]

.DWG file.

Strut Brace.dwg

[Mastadd240K]

Thanks noddle that will come inhandy!

[Noddle]

3. strut brace. a peice of 6mm tongue welded to the reinforing plates on the strut towers. then bot a 30mmRHS tube assy on. why does it need to be adustable?

I had always though of making it adjustable, with left and right hand threaded bar, but after reading what matt240K said, I'm going to put it together on the car and weld the main cross brace, the picture show its better than I have explained it.

also I decided that 6 mm was to thick, so I ask my brother to "spin" it down to 4.5mm on his lathe.

Nigel