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Darrel

'70 240z in denver

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    Thanks, Carl. Yeah, I'll definitely buy another Z. I just don't know if this is right for me. I really need advice here. I can't spend 10-20K. I know that much.If I could fix what NEEDS to be fixed now, and leave the details and fine points to do a little at a time, I could make this work. But if I'm looking at 10K just to fix what needs to be fixed, and make this thing a solid driver, I'd better keep searching.

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    Thanks, Carl. Yeah, I'll definitely buy another Z. I just don't know if this is right for me. I really need advice here. I can't spend 10-20K. I know that much.If I could fix what NEEDS to be fixed now, and leave the details and fine points to do a little at a time, I could make this work. But if I'm looking at 10K just to fix what needs to be fixed, and make this thing a solid driver, I'd better keep searching.

    Unless the car has dangerous rust all you need for a solid driver is a working drive line (engine, transmission, differential, steering, brakes, etc.). Paint and bodywork don't matter. The interior doesn't matter. It really doesn't take much money to get a 240Z to that point. Some people start out with a car that doesn't drive and completely restore it over a period of years before they can finally drive it. The other approach, which is what I did, is start with the mechanical work, get the car driving reliably, and then worry about the cosmetics.

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    Unless the car has dangerous rust all you need for a solid driver is a working drive line (engine, transmission, differential, steering, brakes, etc.). Paint and bodywork don't matter. The interior doesn't matter. It really doesn't take much money to get a 240Z to that point. Some people start out with a car that doesn't drive and completely restore it over a period of years before they can finally drive it. The other approach, which is what I did, is start with the mechanical work, get the car driving reliably, and then worry about the cosmetics.
    I'll second this, as that's the approach I took with my yellow Series 1. All it lacks now to be drivable is exhaust. It still needs a bit of rust repair, but that can wait. I might have paid a bit too much for it just over a year ago, but I made that up by buying a parts car to affordably get some of the things I needed. I'm in mine for about $4000 now, and the engine, drivetrain, suspension, brakes, electrical and cooling have all been taken care of. If that one runs and doesn't burn oil badly, you should be able to get to that same spot for that much or maybe less.

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    I called and talked to the owner. Real nice lady. She says because of the gas tank it's not really driveable (keeps clogging the filter), but if that's fixed it runs well, has good brakes, etc. I did some google searching for a gas tank but came up with zilch. I guess I could always push it home.:eek:

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    I called and talked to the owner. Real nice lady. She says because of the gas tank it's not really driveable (keeps clogging the filter), but if that's fixed it runs well, has good brakes, etc. I did some google searching for a gas tank but came up with zilch. I guess I could always push it home.:eek:
    Hmm, I've got a decent spare '71 gas tank. Might be expensive to ship to CO, though...

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    Hmm, I've got a decent spare '71 gas tank. Might be expensive to ship to CO, though...

    Thanks for the offer. It took the whole commute home to clear my head and think this through. It's rash decisions like this that caused me to go out looking for a nice older bike to commute on and come home with a ridiculously fast crotch rocket. It took me a year to get that sucker all sorted out. I better stick to my original plan and find a good condition driver. I'm just not worthy of having that car. I'd rather be driving then restoring, and she deserves someone who will take her all the way.

    That said, if any of you local boys have a good solid driver you want to sell and get some '70 240Z seed money just let me know!

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    I used "240z" in search when I found that one.

    Check www.zccc.org the local z club web site. The Odometer is the monthly newsletter. We have meetings the first wednesday of every month at Brooklyns near the stadium.

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    I guess I should clarify my situation. I do have a pretty significant "rust" issue that even with a running drive train, a seat and a steering wheel would still prevent the car from being road worthy. I suppose my point was, for me, a 500 dollar purchase in rural Ohio has turned into a significant financial undertaking. From what people are saying, the car may not be in that bad of shape. I might have a spare gas tank from my 71 parts car but I have no idea of when I will be at a point to remove it. Don't let me talk you out of it. :) Carl

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    ...

    ,,,,snipped.....

    That said, if any of you local boys have a good solid driver you want to sell and get some '70 240Z seed money just let me know!

    How much do you think a good solid driver should sell for? What are you willing to pay for one today?

    Carl B.

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    Some Guy,

    Since you live in the Denver area, here's a '73 240Z driver for sale that the owner claims runs good, but you should probably go check it out in person to see what its condition really is:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=006&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBI%3AIT&viewitem=&item=160042069034&rd=1,1

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    Thanks, Steve. It's an automatic, though, and I'm looking to get more car than that.

    Carl, I guess I'm looking in the 5-6K range. I've been searching nationwide to get an idea on prices, and that seems to be where I'd like to fall. For that price it looks like I can get a Z that runs well, has minimal rust, and looks pretty good. I've seen Z's in this range advertised as "no rust" but I've known enough of these cars to take it with a grain of salt.

    http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp;?tracktype=usedcc&searchType=25&pageNumber=0&numResultsPerPage=50&largeNumResultsPerPage=0&sortorder=descending&sortfield=PRICE+descending&certifiedOnly=false&criteria=K-%7CE-ALL%7CM-_65_%7CH-%7CN-N%7CR-500%7CI-1%7CP-PRICE+descending%7CQ-descending%7CX-antique%7CZ-80126&aff=denver&paId=196557208&recnum=7&leadExists=true

    This is the first one I looked at. The upper body areas are in really nice condition, as is the paint, glass, interior. The underside is in bad shape. Pretty much rusted out from front to rear. The engine doesn't run well. Not much power. It clunks really hard going into gear. All and all, a nice looking car, but that's about it. Had it ran really well I might have been temped to do the rust work. Had the underside been better I might have been tempted to tear into the engine.

    I also called about a 72 that's about an hour north of me. It was restored 10 years ago and engine rebuilt 70K ago. The guy talked about a little rust but says very minor (which I figure means a bit more when I start looking), that it runs really strong, handles well, and looks really sharp. He wants $5800. That's more in line with what I want, if the description is pretty accurate. Unfortunatly I don't know when I'll have time to check it out.

    Does it sound like I'm on the right track, money wise (5-6K)? All I really have to go by is what people say in their ads to get to that figure.

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    This is pretty close to what I'm looking for, only a bit more than I can spend right now and a long ways from home. Like I said before, I really don't have time to get into a new project. I'd rather find one that's ready to go, and pay more, than get a good deal and have a lot of work ahead of me. The 70 on craigs really had my mind turning, but it's not practical for me right now. I'm looking to land somewhere between the 2K cars that need work and the 13K cars that are advertised as perfect.

    http://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=1503&cat=1

    BTW, sorry for hijacking the thread. I really didn't mean to, and if I could turn back time would have introduced myself and my desires in the proper area.:o

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    I used "240z" in search when I found that one.

    Check www.zccc.org the local z club web site. The Odometer is the monthly newsletter. We have meetings the first wednesday of every month at Brooklyns near the stadium.

    Thanks, Darrel. I'll start using the variations in my searches, and look you guys up when I get a car. I tried to check out The Odometer, but it doesn't seem to like my Mac. I'll have to try to pull it up in the office tomorrow.

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    Carl...

    snipped....

    Does it sound like I'm on the right track, money wise (5-6K)? All I really have to go by is what people say in their ads to get to that figure.

    Hi Blaine:

    I think your not too far off. As long as you realize that is most likely just the starting point.

    For the most part, if you look far and wide, you can still find a good 240-Z in the $5K to $6K range. It will be good for weekend short trips around town and it will look pretty good from 10 feet.... If you are real lucky it will be "mostly" rust free... meaning the frame rails and area under the battery will be solid... and it might have just a few small rust holes in the floorboards upon close inspection (once you remove the tar mat).

    Then over the next few months, you fall in love with the car, and decide to fix a few things, do a little maintenance etc..(we've all been there..or are still there now).

    The $6K car needs (well it could use) a new set of tires and when you install them, you find the front end still shakes at 65mph... so new shocks, ball joints come next. You notice that the brakes could use some attention because the Master Cylinder just started leaking... or the clutch Master / Slave finally gives out (now that it's being driven often)...

    That exhaust smell has to be fixed..so new weatherstrips/seals in the deck lid and around the tail lights etc. Now we're cruse'n... and darn the clutch is slipping badly... new clutch...

    At this point you are five to six months down the road.. you've spent eight to ten weekends on various fun projects like changing the clutch and shocks etc... and although the engine had been rebuilt by the PO... the carb's have throttle shafts that are leaking and it's all but impossible to tune the car out perfectly... nothing a rebuilt set won't cure.... need to change all the rubber fuel lines as well... might as well do the belts...

    OK - so $6K for the car plus another $3K to $5K for the needed service (depends on how much time you have to do the service yourself, or how much your local Z Shop will charge for some items.)..

    You can usually buy the cars outlined above - that the PO how has $11K to $14K and a lot of personal work in - for around $8K to $9K. Might be a bit less West of the Mississippi.... The PO's will have extensive documentation / service bills / parts bills etc - and they will have done all this work within the last three years...

    Personally, I'd spend the $8K to $9K today if I found the car that had been recently gone though... You are time and money ahead at that point.. the drive the car across the State or across country... and start thinking about "refreshing" the paint and body work ;-)

    FWIW,

    Carl B.

    Carl Beck

    Clearwater, FL USA

    http://ZHome.com

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    This is pretty close to what I'm looking for, only a bit more than I can spend right now and a long ways from home. Like I said before, I really don't have time to get into a new project. I'd rather find one that's ready to go, and pay more, than get a good deal and have a lot of work ahead of me. The 70 on craigs really had my mind turning, but it's not practical for me right now. I'm looking to land somewhere between the 2K cars that need work and the 13K cars that are advertised as perfect.

    http://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=1503&cat=1

    Hi Blaine:

    That car is at least $2K under the current market ... lots and lots of work already done - and most likely done correctly (I happen to know John)... A Series I car at that... for $6,850.00 it's a bargain... I'd find a way to go get it.

    This one is ready to go - as a daily driver, with the possibility of doing a full restore in the future... Clutch, tires, wheels, suspension, etc etc all done... heck you'd be paying $1,500.00 for the car...! and saving all that time... just paying for the a fraction of the parts/labor you'd put into another $5K car..

    If that ad has been there for very long - it's most likely sold already.

    FWIW,

    Carl B.

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    Carl is so right. What he says is exactly what happened to me. I got a 98 thousand original mile 73 for $6K a year ago. It was purchased in Pennsylvania and I live in San Diego so add another $900 for transportation. Once I got the car, I did not like the tires so I got new ones, then I did not like the exhaust, next I was onto springs and struts, next the points had to go, so in goes the Petronix, then the cooling system is not to my liking so I buy a 14" aux fan. A man who loves to listen to tunes as he drives, I needed a stereo, which lead to me needing a speaker box for MSA. Now I am getting ready to replace the original 2.4 with a 2.8 which is more $$$, I also want to get new interior plastic and diamond vinyl from Classic Datsun. Of course the car was not perfect, it needs a small repair on the passenger side floor board right under the tar mat which noticed when I had to fix a bottom out dent caused by bad springs and struts. Doing some simple math I am in to this car for over $9K and still needs the $3to5K paint job. Right on Carl, you know what you are talking about.

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    Thanks, Carl. Wow, I had no idea that was your website. I've been reading a lot on there over the past few weeks. Excellent site. I understand that there will always be something I can fix or replace or improve. Just part of the love I guess.

    My bike is a good example. I paid 3K. It ran strong and handled well. I probably could have ridden it as is for a long time. I replaced the clutch, exhaust, added stainless brake lines, new speedo cable, windscreen, seat cover, water pump impeller, radiator cap and a rear tire. Then I did the body work and paint. I've now got about 4K in, and I could upgrade the suspension, a big bore kit, billet clutch basket, etc etc. But it runs great, performs well, and while the additional things would make it even better, they aren't necessary to enjoy the bike. I'm just looking for something similar in a Z.

    Blaine

    post-13044-14150798718923_thumb.jpg

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    Hi Blaine:

    That car is at least $2K under the current market ... lots and lots of work already done - and most likely done correctly (I happen to know John)... A Series I car at that... for $6,850.00 it's a bargain... I'd find a way to go get it.

    This one is ready to go - as a daily driver, with the possibility of doing a full restore in the future... Clutch, tires, wheels, suspension, etc etc all done... heck you'd be paying $1,500.00 for the car...! and saving all that time... just paying for the a fraction of the parts/labor you'd put into another $5K car..

    If that ad has been there for very long - it's most likely sold already.

    FWIW,

    Carl B.

    John's car (in the linked ad) is a definite buy, and that car as well as the low-miles Series 2 '71 I bought last month (see my third 240Z) show that this $7000-9000 range may be the sweet spot right now, if you are patient, but diligent in searching them out. John's car is perhaps even a better buy in some ways than mine was, unless you are after strict originality. Because as good as mine is, it will still need tires, weatherstripping, all cooling and vent hoses replaced, struts, carpet, etc. But John's car looks to be ready to drive right now. If you can swing it, you should do so.

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    I agree that it sounds great and is a good price. If it was in Colorado, or even a surrounding state, it would be very hard to pass on. I can't hop a flight to California right now to chase a car, and I would never buy a car I hadn't seen or driven. Plus, it would do ugly things to my bank balance. If I need to jump to the 7-9K range, I really need to wait a few months.

    It's a nice car, but it won't be the last car. I don't need to buy today, though I would if I found the right one. Unfortunately, this isn't it. Not today anyways.

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    No need to wait until you get a z to attend any of the meetings. Any one is welcome even if you own a mustang. ;-)

    There might be a z or 2 for sale if you let them know you're looking for one.

    For the right car you shouldn't have to think twice about hopping on a plane and going to get it or even to look at it if the seller is truthfull. And with the endorsment carl gave the owner of the car, it definitely has merit.

    There is a thread on hybridz about a guy that flew from the east coast to Utah to pick up a 510 wagon and drove it back.

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    Blaine, Carl Beck knows of which he speaks. I bought a "perfect" 73 in Denver last year for $8,000. It had 69,000 original miles(real) and I bought it from the first owner who had kept it garaged all it's life. It had NO rust and although I felt I probably overpaid I have very few of the issues others have had with their more "used" cars. Then came the fun...had to get rid of the white vinyl roof(dealer installed and beginning to peel, that required a new paint job. Then a few rubber parts, then a new exhaust system, then new struts,and as long as I was doing that,new bushings, ball joints, tie-rod ends. I was unable to tune the 71 S.U.s so off they went to Ztherapy. Then the seats were saggy and my 60 year old butt just needed some new foam. Then, of course I needed some tunes.......you see where this goes. I'm now into the car for a lot more than I paid for it and I will never get the money out of it, BUT, I don't care. I'm having so much fun with this car that the money just doesn't matter all that much. I can do 90% of the work myself which is very satisfying and then I can do like I did on Monday and take the Z for a spin in the mountains up to Estes Park and over Peak to Peak down to Boulder and that is really a blast and a great stress reliever. It really doesn't matter how much you pay, you will pay more as time goes by. As Carl said when I was first looking..."get the BEST car you can afford and go from there". Check out my picture gallery to see what I have been talking about.

    Good luck with your search and remember these cars are not an investment that will make you money. They are for fun and that's worth a lot.

    Cheers, Mike

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    I second all that has been said by he with the "60 year old butt".

    My car cost about 6K of your US notes. I have spent about 2K on parts and in the process of parting with another 6K for to the car to be taken back to bare metal, new panels fitted, rust removed and of course new paint. You pay for what you get in this world and I have no illusions that I will not see a profit on this car unless some nutter in Japan wants a low VIN RHD 240z in his collection that has almost every part either rebuilt or new. Oh, and I'm not selling it either.

    Best advice anyone can give is DONT RUSH INTO BUYING ANYTHINGn (I did and now I'm hurting). Take your time and get a bloody good feel for what they are worth and know where to look for the hidden problems. The hardest thing to do is to set your emotions aside when actually viewing with the intent to purchase.

    Heh Mike, it should back from the shop in about 8 weeks, give me about another year to put it all back together and she's all yours for your next God Zone trip.

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    Darrel

    Didn't someone at ZCCC have a 240 for sale. I want to say his name is Gary A very nice guy that had a heart attack last year or so. I have seen it but not up close. It has the rear defroster and looked really clean.

    Eric

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    Yeah, that's Gary Bracken. he had a stroke last yr. I'm not sure how interested he was in selling it. He bought it last year or the year before. He used to have it for sale in the odometer but more or less to fill out extra space in the classifieds.

    lonetree steve saw it at the car show so he would probably have better idea of the condition. I never paid that close attention to it as i have 2 cars that occupy my time. ;-)

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