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Replacing 240Z floors Part1


Z Kid

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Hey Z Kid !

Good write-up. I might add that when doing both floors, it is a good idea to bolt in the transmission mount to the tunnel to keep it in location and shape. I know you kept the seat brackets in, and that does pretty much the same thing, but without them, the tunnel can get a little flimsey and the transmission mount will help.

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I looked at cutting the seat mounts out to install, however just having the transmission mount without the main seat mounts in means that you have move the whole trans tunnel to either the left of the right relative to the car without much effort at all.

I agree I probably should have had the trans mount in, but hey it still fits fine :) (pure arse) I guess I struck it lucky, but I would be cautious to take out the front seat mounts and just have the trans X member, it would only need to move the whole engine gearbox 2-3mm to one side of the car and you would end up with the potential to have some awful driveline vibrations, and real difficulties getting at bellhousing bolts etc etc.

Thanks for the tip 26th, and I will remeber to bolt up the trans X member next time I have to do a set of floorpans. I'd also be cautious about doing both floorpans at once though, I made a point of completing one before even removing the other one, theres not a lot of strength in the old Z shell without floors I wouldnt have thought.

Chris

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  • 1 month later...

Z kid,

Your currently my new hero. After attempting and failing to install my new floors for my z at least 3 times... I took some notes on what you did and tried it that way with the screws holding it in place. Worked like a charm, and got my drivers side in and bolted up ( not welded yet ) in under half an hour.

Great post!!!

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Hey Corgan, "Where you at". I'll be doing this soon, I buy many beers and there is always rumplemintz in the freezer. The wife is also a jam up cook. In other words come on by and show me how these things fit up!!!

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Mr Datto; Yeah I got mine from restorers hotline/rare spares here in SA. And there service is second to just about everyone. They are rude, expect payment upfront, then fail to deliver on time, and justify that me waiting 8 weeks to source a part from Sydney is alright, because if I had ordered a rubber kit from the states it would have taken them three months. They then will refuse you a refund and expect you to wait. Awesome bunch of people, and I would have thought by now they would be getting sick of my weekly phone calls and just give me my money back for the parts they havent yet sent. But from what I understand all the Australian floorpans are made by one manufacturer.

Corgan; If your car bends without one floorpan in it because you rolled the bare shell on its back, the car is somewhat unsound. The front seat mount stays in, the sills are still on, the trans tunnel is in, and perhaps the box crossmember too, you really shouldnt be able to twist bend the car in that state. That said I dont think it makes a big difference, except when welding on the under floor rail, welding upside down always sets me on fire. And besides if its upside down, its at the right height to work on no more stooping.

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Zkid,

Good to know... I was going on the fact that many people attempt to increase the rigidity of there chassis due to the fact that the unibody does flex a fair amount when driving. I was thinking that turning the body on its side or upside down may induce some of this flex, and you wouldn't want to weld a floorpan in place if this was the case. More of a "better safe than sorry" comment. But come to think of it, I've moved mine around a good deal trying to get the best fit.

"welding upside down always sets me on fire"

I think that should be the quote of the day...

NCZ:

Good old Raleigh, NC.. .at least until November or so, then I'll be in Good old Marlborough Massachussetts. I'd love to come down and help, but I'm not sure how much time I'll have in the next two months to do so. I have to get my car off the rotisserie and back on its suspension and wheels by move time...

My best advice to you is... cut small, then when your positive the hole is too small, cut larger. Other than that, if you are using Charlie's pans, its easier if you remove the seat mount, by a lot. Just do one pan at a time. I'll post pics once mine are in and neatened up. If I can't get down there, I can at least post pics and help that way

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Thanks Corgan, sorry about the move to Mass. You know theres commies up there!! I get through Raleigh a lot on business. Might have to take a look at how your project is going. Also, are you going to take your rotisserie with you or might you want to sell it. Just wondering. Thanks for the info and (future) help

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Yes, I'd be interested in selling it, hoping to be done with it in the next couple months.

I also have a bunch of other stuff I may sell to lighten my travel load, air compressor, welder, front quarter panels, etc... PM me so this thread doesn't get hijacked....its already kinda wayward now :-)

Commies? LOL, nobody up there but us yankees. I grew up a yankee, came down here for a job... haven't really been able to grow accustomed to it ( seriously.. its 110 out today, what the hell is up with that?? ) so after 4 years, now I'm going back ... Have nothing against people down here, just isn't the life for me.

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