Removing Paint Overspray

[EScanlon]

...snip...plastic headlights that have gotten dull and sort of cloudy looking.

Not necessarily. Some plastics are "burnt" by UV rays and there is no fix for that. If the surface of the plastic has a chalky feel, or if the clear lens has acquired a milky-yellowish color, then it has been damaged by the UV rays. No amount of polishing will remove that color as it is IN the plastic. Polishing only affects the surface.

2¢

Enrique

[ZIII]

In this case he wants to harm the paint ...

Mike,

I can assure you that prep-Sol will NOT harm the paint. I have used it for years without any problems at all. On my Vette which has a clear coat I use it to get the tar off the bottom rockers…. On the Z which is enamel it's no problem. I use it on plastic or rubber and have never had a problem.

So, I am struck by your comment. Have you used it? Are you speaking from experience in using Prep-Sol?

George

[Jayru]

Mike is right. I want to harm the paint (on the rubber molding only). If prep-sol doesn't hurt paint, how can it help to remove paint from the rubber molding.

[MikeW]

So, I am struck by your comment. Have you used it? Are you speaking from experience in using Prep-Sol?

I'm afraid you misread what I wrote. No, I've never used it. Would you recommend it to someone who's looking for a paint remover that won't harm plastic?

[LanceM]

Not necessarily. Some plastics are "burnt" by UV rays and there is no fix for that. If the surface of the plastic has a chalky feel, or if the clear lens has acquired a milky-yellowish color, then it has been damaged by the UV rays. No amount of polishing will remove that color as it is IN the plastic. Polishing only affects the surface.

2¢

Enrique

You're right on the UV, I should have been more clear, often you see them and they are dull from dust abrasion and what not, these you can buff out to look like new.

[ZIII]

I'm afraid you misread what I wrote. No, I've never used it. Would you recommend it to someone who's looking for a paint remover that won't harm plastic?

The original question centered around how to remove over spray paint which is totally different than removing paint. Thinners are way too radical, in my opinion. Prep Sol is a pre-sanding solvent more of a cleaner if you will. Now, it is harmless on plastic and rubber. I have used it around plastic light lenses to get the wax out. For instance, on the side marker lights there are serial numbers on the plastic and sometimes wax finds itself imbedded in there. A toothbrush and some Prep-Sol quickly solves that. For over spray I have used it on rubber…. Dab a piece of rubber with it, wait a minute or so, and then wipe it off with a clean cloth. Of course, if the over spray has been there awhile and has really baked itself on you may have to do this several times. But on plastic that is rarely the case. It should come right off. Rubber would be more difficult to work on as the rubber may have actually absorbed the paint. My point is, Prep-Sol will not harm your paint at least it hasn’t harmed mine and I use it all the time.

Now, about thinners. I have used lacquer thinner to remove paint from plastic and I should say hard, colored, plastic. Painters use it to remove paint from house light fixtures, wall socket covers etc, and if you are concerned, just use a wet sponge immediately afterwards. In other words, do not do this on the car….. Clear plastic, like gauge covers, are another matter . There I would not use any thinner. However, any kind of polish, like brasso, or even a mag polish, usually will do the trick.

Back to Prep-Sol…. My suggestion is to see if you can try it before buying it…. Most auto body shops that I know of use it and getting a dab of it should not be difficult. If it works on your particular problem that is great. Just do not worry that it will mar your paint; it won’t.

George

[seerex]

hhm some great ideals , keep them coming rarely does the first thing i every do work on any of my z cars , I have used brasso on lenses before with great results, I just got a buffing wheel and I will try using some products with a bit of rpm's and see how that goes

[EScanlon]

The original question centered around how to remove over spray paint which is totally different than removing paint. Thinners are way too radical, in my opinion. Prep Sol is a pre-sanding solvent more of a cleaner if you will. Now, it is harmless on plastic and rubber

...snip...

Now, about thinners. I have used lacquer thinner to remove paint from plastic and I should say hard, colored, plastic. Painters use it to remove paint from house light fixtures, wall socket covers etc,

...snip...

Clear plastic, like gauge covers, are another matter . There I would not use any thinner. However, any kind of polish, like brasso, or even a mag polish, usually will do the trick.

...snip

The generic term for Prep-Solâ„¢ is Wax and Grease Remover.

Whether you use this or any other brand, the intent is to dissolve whatever wax, grease or protecting film that has been previously applied to the surface.

If the overspray occurred after that film was applied, then the paint should be removed readily. If on the other hand the paint spray went onto the plastic without any protective film, then more than likely the paint solvent will have allowed the paint to adhere to the plastic, and the W&G remover will only clean the surrounding surface and the overspray. If the paint is not firmly attached to the plastic, it MAY scrub / wipe off.

W&G Remover is generally accepted as harmless to all plastics and paints, but that's not always the case. Some flexible plastics will be dried out by it, as well as rubber and silicone compounds. Contact time will also affect whether the material being treated is harmed. Usually, you apply the W&G Remover with a moistened cloth and then wipe it off with a clean dry cloth. (The teaching method used in body shops is the "Karate Kid" movie scene "Wax On- Wax Off", where each hand does one action.) If additional treatments are needed the procedure is still the same and not a soak and wait method.

Next, don't confuse LACQUER THINNER with MINERAL SPIRITS, aka Paint Thinner. Mineral Spirits are used to thin oil based paints used in homes, but not on cars (except for the really creative). While a simple wipe with Mineral Spirits will remove oil based paints while they're still wet, once the paint is dry it will take a good rubbing to remove it.

Lacquer thinner on the other hand, is a true SOLVENT. It's primary use is to thin lacquer paints for air spray equipment, as the viscosity of paint straight out of the can will not allow the paint to be atomized evenly. On dried paint, it will dissolve lacquer based paints and on enamel paints will attack them such that they'll lift and wrinkle. There are different thinners for use in different temperatures as well as humidity levels.

For what we are suggesting here, the typical inexpensive thinner available at most hardware stores, is strong enough to remove the paint without being overly aggressive on the plastic / rubber.

Clear plastic is a very touchy material. If handled incorrectly you can seriously marr it's surface so that you will actually render it unuseable. Thinner on the clear lenses on the instruments is a definite no-no, as it will have it's surface softened and will marr with the slightest touch. Brasso, toothpaste, and other polishes have a very small amount of grit in them in order to "scrub" the surface they are used to polish. While you can have some success using these products, you should be extremely careful with them as any scratches or imperfections will have to be polished out.

In my opinion, to clean the clear plastic on the instruments, if they have any stains or paint on them, try that product used to remove price sticker glue or Goof-Off. Both of these have very mild ingredients and in my use have not harmed clear plastic.

But the original question was on the front turn signal lenses. Both the front and rear lenses (if OEM) are of a plastic that is unaffected by lacquer thinner. This is from personal experience, as I bought a couple lenses that had paint on them but were otherwise in good condition. The plastic used on these is of a type that is not readily harmed by the thinner. Then again, we're not recommending you SOAK them in it, just a lightly moistened cloth and a light wipe.

Rubber, on the other hand, reacts very diffently to solvents than plastic. If you have paint overspray on your rubber, you will find that to remove the paint you might loose that shiny smooth finish from the mold. The best way I've found to remove paint from rubber is to flex the rubber to crack and loosen any of the paint and then use a good rubber cleaner.

Hope this helps.

Enrique

[EScanlon]

...snip...I just got a buffing wheel and I will try using some products with a bit of rpm's and see how that goes

Be very careful when polishing plastic as it doesn't take much friction heat before the temperature / pressure is enough to deform the surface. Voice of experience here. Higher RPM's need an ultra fine touch as they'll literally burn through the surface in record time. Ever heard of burning through the paint when polishing it?

Enrique

[ZIII]

Enrique,

I agree with you completely and your advice is well stated. Myself, I would never confuse Mineral Spirits with Lacquer Thinner; they being two entirely different products. I have always used the rule of using the least abrasive product first and then moving up. There comes a time, however, when you have to stop and not try anything more abrasive, least you really ruin whatever you are trying to fix. That point becomes known after trial and error or experience or a combination of both.

George

[EScanlon]

...snip... There comes a time, however, when you have to stop ..., lest you really ruin whatever you are trying to fix. That point becomes known after trial and error or experience or a combination of both.

George

That's the exact reason why I post my "clarifications". Not to be argumentative, nor to denote myself as some sort of guru or wizard. Simply that many of our fellow Z lovers would have to endure that same trial and error/ experience that I have or others have had.

If these posts allow ONE member to avoid the dog poopoo on the sidewalk, then they will have served their purpose. Remember, all of us had to learn what we now know about the Z from someone and/or someplace.

It behooves those of us who have Z's that are in any condition - good or bad, whether by our actions or those of others to advise others as to what to avoid.

That's just the giving part of the "Golden Rule". The other part is in receiving...how others then share their experiences, pitfalls, and solutions.

I posted a bit about repairing and adjusting the Wipers, then Bambikiller posted some excellent posts with pictures regarding disassembly. I remember some posts regarding electrical problems and upgrades needed on the electrical system, I've chimed in and in turn was able to buy an excellent upgrade relay system for the headlights from Zs-ondabrain.

That's what's so important about this club, at least to me.

Remember, we all get something for what we give. In a very cynical way you might say that every altruistic motive has a selfish motivation behind it. Here, with the Z's, hopefully by giving our best, we'll receive others best.

So, now ... group hug and back to enjoying the Z. (and if that's too much "fluff" for you......PFFFFFFT!!!)

Enrique

[ZIII]

I neither felt nor assumed any argumentative tone whatsoever in your response. Rather, it was a clarification, elaboration and insights that needed to be said and I am sure are, or should be, appreciated by the person asking the question. Even I learned as I read and as you say that is what’s great about this forum. I have owned my Z for 32 years and there is not much that I have not seen, replaced, repaired or substituted at one time or another. Yet, I am learning almost every time I am on this forum. It’s great. Group hug back at you…..

George