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Por15


new_2_z

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This is not saying go out and buy it. Ill try to get some pics up soon. If you already know or didn't i had some rust (cough cough ) on my floors(holes). I took the advice of the smart ones and replaced them. well I did not really replace the floors just did some patching which is not all that hard if u practice with a welder.(which i had to do) over all i was happy with it. i wanted to make sure that the floors say as good as they can for years to come. so what i did i ordered the por15 floor pan kit. i did all the prep and i applied the fabric with the por15 paint. one thing about this paint is that its thick. unfortanly i got some on my hand right now and it takes some scrubing to come off. yes iv tried the paint thinner and gas it just this stuff likes to stick to you. :stupid: . i have already had this stuff on me and it take about 4-5 days to come off. since i had some por15 paint left i went ahead and did the whole inside.(spare tire,shock tower...etc). Over all im very impress with this stuff. You do get your money worth if you do the prep work right. So those who question about the por15 way it worked for me and im happy. Im still in the process of a strip down on my car so im getting rid of all cancer on her.

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I've just recently treated a fair bit of my sunny with POR15. Gotta say I'm quite impressed so far. Previously I'd done the driverside floor and a few patches that needed fixing for road worthy. The engine is out at the moment so I've gone and done the whole engine bay, crossmember, radius rod mounts and a few other bits. There was a lot of surface rust in there before, so certainly look MUCH better now.

Before

before.jpg

After (in straight POR15 and that's how I'll be leaving it):

after.jpg

Crossmember (top coated in matte black):

xmember.jpg

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Big D I've got all the por15 stuff you'll need at the shop.come see me and we'll set you up with what you need. and yes you will need to prep the surface before you paint it.like I said come see me at the shop.

p.s. remember the control arm w/the por15?

JZM

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In order to protect aganinst rust, the POR must be in direct contact with either rusty metal, or properly prepared metal. If applied over paint, it is simply another coat of (expensive) paint. I don't know how engine heat would affect regular POR15, although they do make high temp coatings.

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I've just recently treated a fair bit of my sunny with POR15. Gotta say I'm quite impressed so far. Previously I'd done the driverside floor and a few patches that needed fixing for road worthy. The engine is out at the moment so I've gone and done the whole engine bay, crossmember, radius rod mounts and a few other bits. There was a lot of surface rust in there before, so certainly look MUCH better now.

I'm planning on doing the same thing to mine when I do my engine work. Can you please tell me more about what you did? How did you strip the old paint? How did you do your prep work? How did you apply the POR15 (bursh or spray)? etc, etc.

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look out people.por15 is great if you prepair/repair the surface well[yes it works over rust great].it does not work well on suspension pieces even if you treat the surface well its not near as good as powder coating [on suspesion and under car applications] at our body shop we've tried everthing to get it to stick well [it likes to chip].however it works great under the hood and in the engine compartment and inside.as for temp control I have applied it to a couple of engines,transmissions and diffs we'll see how long the surface last.I'll let you know.

JZM

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one thing about this paint is that its thick. unfortanly i got some on my hand right now and it takes some scrubing to come off. yes iv tried the paint thinner and gas it just this stuff likes to stick to you. :stupid:

You tried paint thinner and gas but not the POR15 solvent that comes in the floor pan kit?

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