If, when I torque it down it gets hard to rotate, then that would mean the distance piece is too short right? If that is the case then I should be able to measure the distance piece that I have and purchase the next size larger to make it right. I just got an email from Courtesy Nissan. The shims are NLA but I can get the distance pieces still Am I on the right track or did I open a can of worms?

*** all of this ASSUMES that the bearings have been fully seated, and there are no "assembly" issues causing your problem.

Step one would be to look on the strut housing to see if you can find the Code Letter to tell you what distance piece the housing requires. Second, would be to disassemble and see if you have the shortest, or middle length, (or longest) piece. Only then will you know which, if any; of the pieces you need.

In other words, if you HAVE the shortest distance piece in your assembly, you could need either the middle, or longest distance piece. (or something else is causing the problem)

If you have the middle length distance piece installed, you could need the longest piece (or something else is causing the problem)

If you have the longest distance piece installed, and the housing requires the longest piece. (something else is causing the problem)

Just my $.02

Thanks Carl. You just reinforced what I was also thinking. You all are the greatest. Is there a specific location on the strut housing where it should be marked?

I don't know. Actually, I wasn't aware that there was supposed to be a mark on the housing until David (panchovisa) mentioned it.

I distance pieces are clearly marked A, B or C on the outer surface. However, I don't think the hub housing is marked since it is only one of two pieces that contribute stack up tolerances to achieve optimum bearing alignment. The other is the stub shaft. The only way to determine which length to use is to take very accurate measurements of the hub and the stub shaft coupled with the bearings to be used. Cannot do it with a yardstick. Only other option is trial and error using the 2 distance pieces other than the one currently installed ...... risky and time consuming.

I have scanned an old S30 chassis and body manual and will try to attach.

The spacer and the housing are BOTH marked. The housing appears to be marked on the top near where the flex brake line clips to hard line.

The distance piece only relates to the distance between the "lands" in housing. The stub axel has no effect on spacer length (the inner bearing presses onto axel until it stops against "land").

Spacer "C" is the shortest (2.063"/2.065")

Spacer "B" is middle length (2.067"/2.069")

Spacer "A" is the longest (2.071"/2.073")(manual has a typo here, I corrected)

Spacer "A" for housings 2.072"/2.076" between "lands"

Spacer "B" for housings 2.068"/2.072" between "lands"

Spacer "C" for housings 2.064"/2.068" between "lands"

Notice the spacers can be from -.005"/+.001" from length of hub.

The rear axel end play is 0.0"/.0057"

This can be the reason that the axel nut torque can range from 181/239 ft-lbs. to keep the axel shaft turning start torque is 28.7 oz or less pulling at a wheel stud.

I would back off the torque on axel nut until start turning torque is in spec, then measure end play and verify axel nut torque is in range.

Yes Regis, this is my final answer!

PS can't seem to get scans attached.

Of course you dont have the halfshafts on or the brake drum on when adjusting start turning setting!!!!!!!!!!

I went back to the FSM and looked at pages RA-9 and RA-10 and it shows where the marks are "suppose to be" and so I went out and looked at both sets of strut tubes and I'll be if I could find any. I will just measure my current distance pieces and buy the next size or two larger. More money and more put together and tear apart but no guessing once it is completed. Arrgh I hate used cars!!!

Well as long as you have decided to rip it all apart

"I would back off the torque on axel nut until start turning torque is in spec, then measure end play and verify axel nut torque is in range."

Or not.

I went back to the FSM and looked at pages RA-9 and RA-10 and it shows where the marks are "suppose to be" and so I went out and looked at both sets of strut tubes and I'll be if I could find any.

See attached picture of one of my spare suspension hubs. It is marked "B" for the middle length Distance piece. You might need to apply solvent and a wire brush to the hub to clean the surface in order to see the stamped mark.

Thanks to panchovisa for guiding me to the mark.

See attached picture of one of my spare suspension hubs. It is marked "B" for the middle length Distance piece. You might need to apply solvent and a wire brush to the hub to clean the surface in order to see the stamped mark.

Thanks to panchovisa for guiding me to the mark.

Carl...THANKS!!! That helped out tremendously I was able to find the marks on the replacement strut tubes. Now all I need to do is measure the distance pieces I have and verify/order the correct ones.

Got it all back to gether today and all is well. The wealth of knowledge on this site is very welcome. I have been a member of other sites where if and when you got a reply it was some smart A-- answer that didn't help. You guys and gals saved me a bunch of headaches and money THANKS!