dual point dizzy

[suntadz]

i need to swap out my dual pt. dizzy with the electronic igniton type. Is it as simple as disconnected the second set of points and install a single point type dizzy? i have a automatic so would this effect my timing? Has anyone done this or know who to turn me onto who has? I was interested in the pertonix setup but they say it would not work with my current dizzy. HELP ME!

i really want this upgrade. There has to be something that can be done.thanks for your help!

suntadz

[jcdozier]

I replaced the old points-type distributor in my 71 auto-trans 240-Z with a Mallory Unilite distributor. No change to the timing was required. As part of the conversion, I also installed a Mallory Promaster ignition coil and a set of Mallory's spiral-core, suppression-type spark plug wires, (I think their brand name was Sidewinder).

Installation instructions provided with the distributor and coil were clear enough for a bonehead like me to follow, and the car has run well - once we remembered to re-connect that little green-white wire, the tachometer even worked.

[Guest 240 Al]

You have a number of options you could use a single point backing plate on your current distributor[backing plate being what points are mounted on] or go to a single point dist. I'm using a "80" 280 ZX electronic dist and coil with harness with the ballast resistor in place[this would elliminate the need for the petronics unit], or you could use "75"-"78" dist [single pick-up coil] with module and coil.Be ware that the ZX dist. backing plate has plastic parts that frequently break [$52.00 by Nissan] and vacuum advance pods also fail a lot[$36.00 to$60.00]I have a cheap fix for the backing plate but the vacuum advance is another matter.I strongly recomend the use of a vacuum advance

on a street machine. 240 Al

[note] your dual point dist has an"advanced" and "retard"points

if you disconnect the wire to the "retard" set the car will

still run.The advance wire is the one you want to use for

the other distributor. insulate the retard wire and leave

it disconnected.

[suntadz]

your post has help me alot. Filled me in on some good questions. Thanks

suntadz

[Isabelle]

I'm working through this issue as well, which points connection is the retarded and which is advanced? I have the condensor on the side of the dizzy and a smaller condenser on the lower portion of the housing. I've created a Y cable so both of the screw mounts (going into the square yellowed blocks) also connect to the black wire feed off the dizzy - the car starts, stutters at 400 rpm for a few seconds and then dies. The car ran before changing the points and I foolishly didn't document where this black wire connects to. Thanks in advance!

[Zed Head]

What car? Have you checked the FSM, the ignition system wiring is well-illustrated and described.

[Isabelle]

It's a 72 240Z with a 4 speed, the engine appears to have come from a 240Z auto with dual points. When I connect to the condenser mounted under the housing the car sputters and dies after a few seconds. If I connect the black wire to the larger condensor closest to the engine block the engine doesn't even sputter (turns over but no fuel ignition). I also had to replace the wire inside the dizzy that is about 2" long, it was totally decays and mostly broken. I used 16 gauge to create a replacement for this piece. Also the back wire if a clip {| something like that, since I don't see where that could connect I made a wire the has a | male end to insert into this, then the other end is horseshoe shape connector that I'm mounting on the yellow block, under the condensor's 90 degree horseshoe bracket. I'll check the FSM again, maybe I'm just looking at it wrong, still a bit of a newbie for the old style ignitions.

[Isabelle]

It's a 72 240Z with a 4 speed, the engine appears to have come from a 240Z auto with dual points. When I connect to the condenser mounted under the housing the car sputters and dies after a few seconds. If I connect the black wire to the larger condensor closest to the engine block the engine doesn't even sputter (turns over but no fuel ignition). I also had to replace the wire inside the dizzy that is about 2" long, it was totally decays and mostly broken. I used 16 gauge to create a replacement for this piece. Also the back wire if a clip {| something like that, since I don't see where that could connect I made a wire the has a | male end to insert into this, then the other end is horseshoe shape connector that I'm mounting on the yellow block, under the condensor's 90 degree horseshoe bracket. I'll check the FSM again, maybe I'm just looking at it wrong, still a bit of a newbie for the old style ignitions.

Also I've set the new points to .014 gap for both sets.

[71ZZZZZ]

I replaced the old points-type distributor in my 71 auto-trans 240-Z with a Mallory Unilite distributor...

This is a really good upgrade. Only issue is when the LED module dies, buy a backup when you get the distributor. I've had years of reliable service with mine, only replaced the module once many years ago. Real stable dwell when running...

Edited June 15, 2011 by 71ZZZZZ

[Isabelle]

Thanks. Got it running by gapping the points to .018, next step - replace this with a 280z dizzy setup!