Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
748 topics in this forum
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- 5 replies
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I had taken my manifolds off and found this hole under my intake, N47, and was told it was in the Heat Riser. I have taken a sawz-all and "deleted" my EGR from the intake for header install. My Dad says it's nothing to worry about but he's never and will never own a "Furrin Car", he retired from Good Year tire company so he's all about buy American. So I'm asking the Z crowd if he's right or should I buy another intake?
Last reply by ZCurves, -
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I've tried my best to read up/ research and be thorough, and I'm still failing with my diagnosis... Here goes. 1975 280z, all stock l28e. Valves adjusted, all filters replaced, new plugs, coil, efi temp. sensor, all vacuum lines replaced (Inc. under the dash), except for the evaporative system, which I've disconnected and plugged from the manifold and vacuum advance for the time being *to remove that variable. I use the car as a daily driver. About a month ago, the car suddenly started running poorly (bucking, loss of power, weak idle), and I found that tweaking the mixture cog in the afm richer by about 45 deg (as per the Atlantic z-car site) improved the car to normal. …
Last reply by NiiChan GT-R, -
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I found this on walmart.com for $20 bucks. I'm going to get one. I don't care about radios just want some gauges to look at.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Just got through looping the neighborhood (cops probably soon to come) about 4 times. with the gauge on drivers windshield blade. start up 24psi, cold. patted throttle went down to 22psi. started my 1st loop medium warmth 24psi, up a hill climbed to 28psi, back down other side dropped to 24psi. middle gauge heat range (hot) 24psi, rev up drops to 20 to 22psi. hot idle 24psi @800rpm. ran terrible. unplugged TPS, ran worse, got a little smoother after 3k rpm. plugged back up TPS. unhooked vacuum line from bottom of FPR and clamped it from intake side. 34psi and ran way better until I got caught at redlight. maintained 34psi but sputtered and fluttered until excess gas burnt…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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I put my pressure gauge in today and got some questional readings. Gauge attached to hose from filter reads 48 p.s.i, hooked to the fuel rail drops to 25. Unplug vacuum from FPR goes to 34. Plugged vacuum line from intake and ran it without FPR getting any vacuum. Runs waaay better. If I let it sit at idle for a few minutes it loads up. A couple of rev ups and it clears up. I'm hard headed and stuck on the idea that the FPR is bad. $60 dollar part, but if it ain't broke..... Any advice?
Last reply by ZCurves, -
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Will this work on my '77 if I need one? "These MSD boost adjustable regulators are designed for turbo or supercharged engines. As boost pressure increases, more fuel is required by the engine. These regulators feature a boost reference circuit that adds more fuel in relation to boost pressure." Seems like boost would be the opposite of vacuum. I have a stock motor. What do you all think?
Last reply by cygnusx1, -
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Can a copper or other type of tubing be slipped inside the original line to repair the rusted pickup tube. I have a 78 280 that has no fuel pressure 1/2 tank or less. It has pressure, just no fuel. Has anyone ever tried this before? Thanks
Last reply by pegasus76, -
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I was replacing some wonky fuel system parts while I was trying to find out why my NOS fuel pump is howling like it's got a belly-ache. I decided to replace the Fuel Damper. Having already flushed the tank, I installed a filter between the fuel tank and the pump (as I had read in the hundreds of earlier posts) as well as the Pressure Regulator -but alas the pump is groaning like its had too many Jalapenos! Finding a Fuel Damper was not as easy as I thought, so I remembered that these were Bosch L-Jetronic systems and that there were many cars that used L-Jetronic. What I found was a Mercedes part (W0133-1615150) here: http://www.importeccatalog.com/item.wws?mfr=BOSCH&a…
Last reply by donplau, -
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Could Seafoam maybe break something loose and mess up my Fuel Pressure Regulator? When I unhook vacuum to FPR my car runs like it did before Seafoam (better).
Last reply by cozye, -
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A while ago,there was a"spirited" discussion as to "hot start issues" related to fuel delivery.My symptoms were that the car was hard to start when parked for 20-30 minutes.Cold -no issues,also when hot-no issues when parked for 5-10 minutes or longer than an hour. Last night(2000 hrs) i charged the system and at 0700 today,i still had 30+ psi of fuel pressure. The final test was today during some "errand running" with a ambient air temp of 106.5 degrees,190 degrees running temp and 220 degrees at re-start. No more starting issues PERIOD.In fact the car starts better at all temps and runs smoother. All i did was clean & flow all the injectors(CSI included)and installe…
Last reply by Z train, -
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I was in the salvage yard the other day and found an in-line Schrader valve on the fuel lines of an Isuzu Rodeo. I've looked around on the internet for something similar but could never find anything. The Schrader valve is common on today's fuel injected cars, as a port for a fuel pressure gauge connection, but the old Z cars don't come with them. All of the newer cars I looked at have them installed on the fuel rail so not easy to transplant. I haven't installed it yet but it fits 5/16" hose like the stock 280Z lines so should be easy to splice in. It will be convenient for fuel pressure checks or adjusting, and for relieving pressure if I need to remove any fuel sy…
Last reply by ZCurves, -
- 6 replies
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When I push in the clutch at Stop Signs or Red Lights or any other time I'm about to stop my '77 stays between 2,000 & 2,500 RPM for about 5 seconds then falls down to normal idle. Any advice as to what it could be? Opened Throttle Switch, black box on manifold, looked like new. Air sprayed the dust and cleaned the plug-in with electrical cleaner then Dielectic grease. Still does it. So I think extra fuel is burning off but I don't know squat. Help.
Last reply by siteunseen,
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