Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,555 topics in this forum
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- 6 replies
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Today I installed my RT diff mount. I went the bump-stop and lower cross-member route. Cut-off 3/4" from the bump-stop worked great. No iterative cutting & fitting required. Did have some initial difficulty getting the RT mount in-place, but a little "persuasion" with a small jack got it moved into position. Found that I had to install the bump-stop after getting the mount partially in-place, but not moved-up into the final position. Also found that lowering my exhaust a about 1-1/2 inches to get it past the exhaust pipe. Replaced the u-joints in my driver's side half-shaft while the car was on jack stands. (Did the other side last weekend, but didn't have…
Last reply by Oiluj, -
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I just got my E31 head back from the machine shop. I had them install new bronze valve guides, new hardened valve seats, stock L24 intake swirl valves and L28 (larger) exhaust swirl valves with the corresponding larger hardened seats. My question is, the stem height on the exhaust valves are higher than the intakes. I'm installing an Isky Stage II cam, and to get proper rocker geometry, I need a .190 lash pad to center the intakes on the new rockers and a .160 lash pad to do the same on the exhaust. Is it OK to have the two valve stem heights different since I can get geometry right, or do I need to go back to the machine shop and have them adjust the valve stem height so…
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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So, I've been messing with tuneup-type stuff on my '72 240z after receiving my 240Z tuneup guide from Z Therapy and awaiting payday so I can buy a wheel cylinder and figured out today that my vacuum advance module is frozen solid. No matter how hard I suck on the hose going into the dashpot, the advance arm doesn't move. I've checked the usual suspects (roackauto, msa, black dragon) and don't see anyone selling one for a '72. While I realize this should probably prompt me to hit the junkyard and upgrade to the ZX model as is my longer-term plans for this car, I might be inclined to just buy one if they're reasonably enough priced. So, who sells one?
Last reply by timhypo, -
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So today I was working on my rear brakes. Everytime I tried to jack up the rear end, the wheels were still on the ground. It was only then that I noticed that there were no half shafts. Apparently, the body shop guy never put them back on. Obviously I haven't driven the car as it is still being rebuilt. Fortunately I still have a pair from another car. I would like to rebuild them before I put them on the car. This leads me to my question. How hard is it to replace the u joints? I know they can be replaced in the first year but have no experience doing so. Any suggestions? I may see if a mechanic friend will do it but thought I would ask first. carl
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
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I am in the planning process of bumping up the HP of my 1973 240Z. Nothing radical. I plan to keep my SU's and keep things looking stock(ish). I'm leaning towards a 3.0L short block and maybe some head exhaust and cam work. In the end I suspect I will be somewhere in between 200 and 250 crank HP. I have done a bunch of reading about clutch/flywheel options and I have come to the conclusion that a stock l28et clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing from a 1981 turbo 280ZX should hold the power that I plan to make. I think if I couple it to a Fidanza aluminum flywheel and install a 1981 clutch collar everything should work fine. Does this sound right? Does any…
Last reply by steve91tt, -
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Took off the old fan clutch yesterday to start the disassembly and cleaning part of the rebuild. The instructions I'm following show a picture of a fan clutch that look different from the one I've got (and had 4x 10mm bolts holding the clutch to the fan, mine used 11mm). Here are the directions I was following and here are 3 pics of my fan clutch. Previous owner replaced it about 10 years ago with a fan clutch from Autozone so I'm not sure if I can rebuild. On the plus side here, if this Autozone one lasted 10 years, I can get another one from there for $40.99. Instructions: http://www.hammondsplains.com/newtechtips/cooling/index.htm
Last reply by dridge11, -
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Ive had my 240z running now for around a year now and it has been doing pretty well. I have a L28 currently and within the past week i noticed a lack of power, more exhaust fumes coming into the car and it was running roughly. The first thing I did was pull each spark plug out to see a change in rpm and Ive concluded that when I remove the #1 spark plug closest to the front of the car there is no change at all. I checked and saw that there was a spark jump, and I looked at the spark plug and it didn't look too bad. my head gasket has been leaking a little since i put the engine in which was probably a year or less ago. could that have anything to do with it. Any help woul…
Last reply by Shade133, -
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Been tracking down a intermittant squeak & dull thumping sound from the rear for the last few weeks. Also some vibration under power (there since I got the car but seemed to be getting more pronounced) The sound went away after the car gets up to speed, >30mph and some days seemed worse than others. Took a look at the driveline, checked all the bolts, driveshaft as well, and found a little play in the passenger side half shaft. Pulled it yesterday & discovered alot of play in the inboard u-joint, bearings shot. Had both joints replaced with Neapco joints at Drivelines NW (did a great job, 2 hr turnaround) and refurbed the rest of the shaft myself. Got it …
Last reply by Oiluj, -
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Hey all, happy owner of a beautiful 71 here. Been driving it around plenty since I acquired it a few months ago. Even took a 6 hour round trip and AutoX'd this weekend no problem. The car usually runs cool under all conditions. Today on the way home, I noticed it running hot when I was sitting at a stoplight, made the rest of the 30 min drive home no problem once the car was moving at regular speed, the temp dropped back down to about normal. Got home, opened the garage, got back in and the temp was between the "half way mark" and the "all the way" mark. Radiator is fine, water/coolant is full, fan was spinning at idle...so what is it? Fan clutch or water pump? Or so…
Last reply by wa5ngp, -
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I'm leaking some kind of redish fish smelling fluid from where the engine block mates to the bellhousing. Is this the fluid for the fly wheel and clutch disc and why would it leak now? It's a newly rebuilt 1977 280z L28 with 4 speed.
Last reply by WingZr0, -
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Yesterday we dropped the new L 28 into the 70 Z! It has an F 54 block with the P 79 head.The beast was shaved .080, shimmed with a reground Stage III Isky cam! We used stainless swirl valves and SM needles. When we fired her up with open headers it sounded like Road Atlanta! Can't wait to get the new exhaust hooked up to feel how she runs. Guy <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2491514066/" title="IMG_8681 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2339/2491514066_d58c275804_b.jpg" width="683" height="1024" alt="IMG_8681" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2491513550/" title="IMG_8679 by…
Last reply by Gary in NJ, -
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Nissan recommends 75w140 oil for their 2way clutch type LSD. I did some research & found a bunch of people who said they switched to redline 75w90 combined with redline's diff friction modifier. Those who did said it quieted the diff down a lot. I'm wondering why that is. If a different weight oil minimizes the amount of chatter does it mean it's making the clutch plates slip against each other more easily & therefore is making the diff less effective with less bite? So in other words it's actually a bad thing? Or am I seeing this wrong? Your thoughts please? Thanks -e
Last reply by EricB,
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