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      Thanksgiving   11/23/2017

      Everyone on the CZC staff wishes all our members a happy Thankgiving to you and your families.
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About gnosez

  • Rank
    '72 240Z(G) 3.2L

Social Contacts

  • Website
    http://www.baddogparts.com

Contact

  • Map Location
    MA

Profile

  • Occupation
    environmental scientist

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About My Cars
    240Z 3.2L
  1. Any advice on bleeding the clutch

    https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=10387 ...or this instead for a few dollars (or build your own) which you can use all by yourself but you do need to push the pedal down, I use this to bleed the brakes on the race car, which I do in between races and I don't use speed bleeders (don't need them with this bottle set-up. Jack the car up, remove front wheels, connect hose and bottle to right rear bleeder, loosen bleeder, remove MC cap, pump brakes, refill MC, close bleeder, repeat. Check petal, repeat as needed. Works very well on the clutch MC/slave too.
  2. Rolling Shell with no VIN

    I believe if this thread was started say 10-15 years ago when really nice Zs were selling for well under $10k and parts cars for over $1k, the issue of titles, ownership, banana republic sellers, etc. it wouldn't have gotten much of rise from the Z community. Now with prices exceeding twice that amount, buyers are thinking about a particular cars re-sale value instead of the joy of immediate ownership. You got a Z for a good price, fixed what your budget allowed, drove the car and sold it for whatever the market would bear. With clone 'Cudas selling for over $150k (because the real ones are worth too much to drive it seems), it looks like the Zs are hitting their stride in the marketplace. For those with significant cars (low VINs, real G-noses, famous ownership history) I understand why you should be very concerned about titles, matching numbers, firewall stamped VINs, original parts and the lack of bondo. As to the USA and our banana republican ways, it should be noted that a scam involving the production and sale of an old English (production/race) car using a chassis number that had not been registered with MOT for more than 10 years is not just an American issue. When the original car and the copy were entered in a vintage race it raised a red flag leading to the discovery of a decades old scam using left over parts. A car once thought to be worth $180k is now just a parts car. Okay, back to getting the rest of the Thanksgiving meal ready....
  3. HLS30-07848

    Notice the small holes on the tail light cut-outs (towards the license plate mount). They look to line up with the shape of a late 260/280 tail light. Just saying, not knocking....done as part of the piece or afterwards.
  4. That gnose has more Bob Sharp catalog parts on it than any other Z I have ever seen. The owner is a Bob Sharp fan par excellence.
  5. Not really good at keeping small insects out however.
  6. Rolling Shell with no VIN

    If you getting that feeling that all this is too much work and worry, sell the car to me as I could care less about what does and doesn't match up. I was surprised to read that the local LEO even knew there was a firewall VIN but maybe there is a database available to them to check. Vintage tube frame race cars had a chassis number stamped but most of the 30,40, or 50 year old cars have been re-tubed multiple times and about the only thing that is original is the section of tubing that has the stamped chassis number, I'm talking about race cars worth hundreds of thousands of dollars, where the tube, the engine, the body work have all been replaced, repaired or modified and yet they are deemed "original". This is true for a 1956 Ferrari race car that is worth north of $16MM that ran at LeMans and was recently restored by shop near me. But I digress, sell me this troublesome Z.
  7. Unless you had a Cogsworth Vega with the optional camper pop-up tent. That you would remember....
  8. Air Cleaner modification

    Rebello suggested a series of holes on the top of the stock housing to increase air flow. Not on the bottom where the air was hotter and perhaps dirtier. I sold that housing and the K&N filter after I moved up to triples. Those get an ITG foam filter, not an airbox because that lost me 10+ HP.
  9. Header / Intake Stepped Washer

    I have made them with half washers welded or ground down a fatter washer. Never did think to see if anyone sells them.
  10. Subaru differential stub axles

    What gear oil does Subaru recommend? And do they suggest a friction modifier as well? I ask because there was a Z at VIR who installed an LSD diff before coming to the track and forgot to put in the additive. He trailered his car home after two 25 minute sessions. Diff was making a loud noise and I recorded a cover temp in excess of 300 degrees F.
  11. Subaru differential stub axles

    Costs are in my last post. Sources for a diff, stub axles or a Quaife? Ebay to start, Futofab, MSA, Google...the world is but a few clicks away. And here I thought this was a thread that was partially about DIY.
  12. Subaru differential stub axles

    I based my cost comparisons on new bearings, seals, stub axles (Subbie diff), labor costs and the diffs themselves. Both diffs would be used, I assumed the gears where in good shape and the Datsun diff would get a Quaife (not welded or OBX'ed) and the clutch plates on the subbie diff would be replaced as needed. I like the Quaife over an LSD diff on the track but don't see any advantage when used on a street car. I can truthfully state that I came in late and missed the DIY portion and put forth my opinion based on a few simple personal rules on installing parts in or on my Z. One of them is - never install something like an engine, tranny, diff that takes time and real effort to put in only to have it fail because I was too cheap and didn't bother to install new bearing, seals, rebuild kit, etc. just so I can drive it for a little while and then have to go through the whole process again when said part goes bad. My $.02 Subbie diff (3:90) $700-$900, stub axles $550, coupler $175, clutch plates $200 ($1,700-$1,900) Datsun diff (3:90) $500 and Quaife $1250 ($1750) Assuming bearings, seals, labor and shipping would be similar for both diffs
  13. Cold is the way to go as you have a constant temp when you make your adjustments. Control the variables....
  14. Subaru differential stub axles

    Wolf Creek was sold to FutoFab. The cost comparison between a built Datsun R180 (quaife, new bearings and seals) and a subbie R180 LSD that needs a set of stub axles to accept the half-shafts and a Datsun coupler from an R180 to match your driveshaft is within a few hundred dollars assuming you have to buy everything.
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