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gnosez last won the day on November 26 2017

gnosez had the most liked content!

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About gnosez

  • Rank
    '72 240Z(G) 3.2L

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  • Website
    http://www.baddogparts.com

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  • Map Location
    MA

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  • Occupation
    environmental scientist

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About My Cars
    240Z 3.2L
  1. Brake upgrade

    I checked last year's packing slip and it was $241. I was in NC on business and picked them up so no shipping costs. They were the most aggressive pad material (20) and the price included pre-bedding the pads., which if you have a race car there is almost no good place to do that. Areas around the track now have a 10 or 15mph limit and doing multiple passes up to 60mph on a local street isn't possible in my neck of the woods. Bedding on the track means I have lost seat time and pissed off my fellow drivers. If you happen to use the 20 compound on the shoes switch to steel drums (for the higher level of heat).
  2. Brake upgrade

    A picture would determine the supposedly part of the question as to whether you have Comp calipers. I ran both Toyo SW8 with stock rotors and the SW12 front calipers with the vented rotors and used Porterfield pads for years until they botched a shipment and sent me street pads in a box marked as race pads. Not a happy time on the track that weekend. We used Porterfield shoes for about 10 years until switching to NIssan Comp and then Carbotech shoes last year. Both worked fine but the constant adjustments were too much for me and I have now swapped in the TechnoToy Wilwood disc calipers. I can't say enough about the Carbotech pads and shoes. They will made up any compound (from street to extreme track use) you need on whatever backing plate you have. I have purchased Rockauto pads & shoes, knocked off the material and ground down to metal a few sets and sent them off to Carbotech. They even will pre-bed them for you
  3. I get most of my metric nuts and bolts from a local dealer - BelMetric. They take small and large orders with the same amount of care. They have the manifold stud bolts as well.
  4. Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432

    While my two 240s are far from stock, every time I read a post showing NLA parts being reproduced makes me smile. Who knows I might have a third Z in my future, one I keep stock. Of course I would have to keep a third Z a secret from my wife. A tip of the hat to nix240Z.
  5. Flywheel removal.

    I too would be worried (after the fact of course) if a flywheel bolt or bolts came off with little to no effort. Many bad things could have happened. Did you use heavy duty hi-strength Loctite when they were installed? Perhaps you didn't install them but you can check to see if there was any residue on the bolts that would indicate some one else used or didn't use it. Not torqueing them to spec could have also contributed to the looseness of the bolts.
  6. No arm restraints with only a hoop (not a fully enclosed upper cage)....
  7. Flywheel removal.

    Of course. At 100 to 160 ft/lbs with the engine hanging on a hoist it will spin unless you have a way to stop the engine from turning. A second person holding a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley nut works as long as they weigh enough. Or you can jam a large screwdriver or bolt to engage the teeth on the flywheel. In air, we trust...
  8. Rear spindle removal

    I think your troll-dar needs calibration. I implied no such thing. I suggested a different, cheap and fast way to remove a pin that under normal circumstances won't come loose. What you replace it with is a whole different matter. I have owned 240s since 1974 and more than 15 years ago I decided to replace the spindle pins with bolts on both my street and race Zs. I have never had one loosen under very extreme usage but of course if one was concerned it would be easy to say double nut them, use a cotter pin arrangement or safety wire them. I use a capture nut and replace it every year on the race car and every 5 on the street car. As to a spindle pin removal tool, none that I have used or made will remove one that refuses to come out. They break in the same place as the one shown above. I have even used a very large slide hammer without success (keeping the strut secured is a problem I solved by building a jig for my work bench which I use to remove the stub axle nuts). I even had to drill out one from both ends on a Bridgeport in a rush to replace a cracked tube before a race weekend. I consider spindle pin removal a 'right of passage" in Z ownership and believe there are just two kinds of people - those that have and those that haven't.
  9. Rear spindle removal

    Wow! So then it seems you didn't read the second paragraph about cutting the pin and pushing out what remains in the strut as something related to removing "old" spindle pins. Whether one installs a new spindle pin or a bolt is a personal matter. Read for speed and comprehension, my teacher always said.
  10. Rear spindle removal

    No spindle pin is needed. Just use a Grade 10 bolt, coated with anti-seize, and throw that locking pin away. I use a sawall to cut between the RCA and strut ends then have the 5 inches or so of the old spindle pin pressed out. I like a free swinging, non-binding suspension.
  11. Triple carb airboxes/heat shields

    I ended up running 3/8 stacks when I had the box on the 3.2L (364hp).
  12. Triple carb airboxes/heat shields

    I had the FG version for several years and put the ITG foam filter back on after Dave Rebello told me he had recently dyno'd two identical engines build for the same guy and the one with the foam filter had more HP. Dave was surprised by the results. As to the questioning of how much R&D went into it I suggest you contact them and ask. A quick look at say air ducting for an office building and you see how the duct size decreases the further away the outlet is from the source of the inlet air. Of course there are reference charts and modeling one can do. And there are people who buy a V12 with carbs just to hear all the intakes open....
  13. Vs OEM

    As to the heim joints, I've had them on my street car for over 10 years (LCAs, Tie-rod ends and RCAs) and the race car has had them for over 7 years (RCAs and tie-rod ends). Not one has come loose in all that time.
  14. Vs OEM

    Not sure what defines a "daily driver". My Honda Ridgeline is my "DD" but I beat the snot out of it. Even had it on the track showing folks the line one day at NHMS. If by "DD" you mean it's not a track or autocross car but rather your day-to-day transportation that has to be very reliable then rubber is the way to go. If you like a stock, soft ride, that is. If you want a "DD" with some more control then selected poly bushings are the way to go with my first choice the steering rack. That is something you don't want moving around.
  15. Triple carb airboxes/heat shields

    Getting the right amount of air to all three carbs using an airbox that hasn't been designed to do so could cause performance issues and lead to engine problems due to A/F ratios. If you look at the ITG fiberglass or CF boxes they have a taper to them that speeds the flow up as it moves towards the rear carb. A non-tapered box could end up having you jet each carb differently. Depending on the box you would need to select a shorter velocity stack. A foam full length ITG filter out performs the ITG box (based on dyno runs@Rebello's shop). I have my headers heat resistant powder coated (inside & out) and use an under tray heat shield as well. The street and race cars both have louvered inspection doors and you can feel the heat coming out. Signed, an ITG foam filter guy for 15yrs on street and race car 240Zs
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