• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

76 Excellent

About gnosez

  • Rank
    '72 240Z(G) 3.2L

Social Contacts

  • Website


  • Member Map Location


  • Occupation
    environmental scientist

My Z Cars

  • About My Cars
    240Z 3.2L
  1. You pitch me softballs and I'll hit them over the fence every day....
  2. Capt'n, I believed you are well seasoned by now...
  3. I'm not aware of anyone selling the one-piece valance for 240/260/280s. FYI - The $2500 estimate for a gnose replica (one piece as opposed to a 5-piece) won't get you the headlight covers or the SS trim. Add anywhere from $500 to $2000 for them.
  4. That "WOW" car is a clone of the BSR '75 GTU car that Bob bought and I believe the picture was taken last year at the annual CTZCC gathering in Darien, CT. I used it to make measurements of the paint scheme while Bob went up a ladder in the garage and got me the stencils for the "33" to use when I painted my Z and some left over livery from back in the day.
  5. It is. You'll need to trim it but it works just fine and it looks good (to me anyway) as it covers the shifter all the way to the knob.
  6. Use the ZX inner shifter boot which was made to allow for a 5th gear position. A 280 5spd will work too but I've found the ZX is less restrictive. I found this out when the shifter would pop out of 5th when I lifted using the 4-spd inner boot. Thought it was the tranny but was happy to find out it wasn't. The ZX outer, trimmed works just fine in a 240 console.
  7. What ratio is that 2015?
  8. Thanks for sharing this. Can someone share pictures of a Portuguese market 240Z so I can compare them to other European , Japanese and US models.
  9. I hope you wore a mask and gloves as the old grease had lead in it.
  10. Holley provides an "L" bracket that the regulator can be secured to. A line to or from the carbs and the tank along with perhaps a pressure gauge means that if you don't mount the regulator to the "L" bracket it will be held by fuel lines.
  11. Hard mounting those Holley regulators caused me a royal PITA until I let it float in the mount. After the race I got an Aero regulator and it has not been an issue. I have gotten several comments from others saying not to hard mount a Holley so I have to go with the flow (no pun intended). One of them was Dave Rebello.
  12. Those deposits on the magnetic drain plug are not unusual for a car with those miles. If you are strapped for cash, replace it for now, get yourself another diff, rebuilt it and put it in when you have the time. On jack stands the diff can be swapped in under 3 hrs. Do it enough and it takes 1.5hrs. The Subaru diffs are nice and you might want to consider replacing the bearings (side at a min) and seals before installing it. You'll need the R180 front coupler (goes to the driveshaft) so you'll be more than half-way to taking the unit apart and I'd replace the pinion bearing too along with the front seal. The K R180s in either 4:11 or 4:38 make your Z very responsive but you'll be hitting the redline sooner. I have both with a Quaife and Giken installed. Performance with the Giken is better but I'm not sure it's $500. better (read quicker).
  13. Off the top of my head, I'd say that was the crash at The Glen which ended his racing days. He says he woke up in the helicopter as it was flying to the hospital in Elmira (?) and doesn't remember what happened.
  14. I had a dead battery on the race car and just plugged in the jump battery when I needed to start it. Not sure why the kill switch would inhibit the ability to jump start an engine.
  15. Ditto what the Chickenman wrote....