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djwarner last won the day on August 13 2016

djwarner had the most liked content!

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About djwarner

  • Rank
    HLS30A 17574


  • Map Location
    Central FLorida


  • Gender
    Not Telling

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About My Cars
    1971 240Z HLS30A 17574 L24-021025
  1. [SOLD] Series I Heater System For Sale

    Heater and fan is sold.
  2. [SOLD] Series I Heater System For Sale

    Actually I did the installation more than three years ago. Should be able to search posts made on this site. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  3. For Sale 1970 240Z heater/fan unit. Unit is fully serviceable. Pulled when replaced with VintageAge unit. $200 plus shipping. PM me for more information.
  4. Gas evaporating from Carburator

    I had exactly the same problem with down draft Weber carbs and solved the problem by mounting an electric pump between the tank and hard line. Rather than powering the pump anytime the engine was running, I mounted a push button switch under the steering column cover. Pushing the button for 10-15 seconds until the bowls refilled and closed the float valves was all that was needed. You could hear the change in the pump pulsing once the valves closed.
  5. Removing the carburetor water cooling lines

    The purpose of the water circulation lines in the intake manifold is for heating - not cooling. When the carbs are at idle, there is a large pressure drop for the air entering the intake manifold. The large pressure drop means a large temperature drop. As the manifold is cooled, fuel droplets tend to wet out against them. This pools fuel in the manifold rather than making it into the cylinders. This is akin to your glass of iced tea wetting the outside of the glass while sitting on your patio table.
  6. Without a 240Z after 5 years

    Damn, If Jay had only released this video a week earlier..........
  7. Without a 240Z after 5 years

    I would second the motion. Swapping to a MT even if just to facilitate a sale would be worth the effort. At Mecum's I expected there would be enough Millenials and/or wives to stimulate a sale. There was one woman bidder on site but she dropped out at $7k.
  8. Without a 240Z after 5 years

    That video was the whole day, Z came up at 9:57 on the video clock - skip ahead to 9:57
  9. Without a 240Z after 5 years

    You found it. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  10. Friends, For the first time in 5 years I am without my 240Z. It sold last Friday at Mecum's auction in Kissimmee. Watching the bidders viewing the cars earlier in the day, I realized the curse of the automatic transmission remained. As such, the Z brought less than I had hoped for, but more than I feared it would bring. So I guess it was a satisfactory result. Just wanted to take this time to thank all of you who have helped me over these last 5 years. And to anyone my postings may have helped, it was my pleasure. In all this group has been one of the kindest, and considerate group I have had the pleasure to being associated. The hole in my garage means I have some extra parts and I would like to offer them for sale to any of you who might use them. I have a Series I heater box with serviceable heater core. I also have the Series I heater fan with a good resistor block. (I may also have the fan switch, I will have to dig into my stocks to verify). I have a set of 2 each 4 screw SU carbs I bought from Madkaw. The pistons are free but otherwise, their condition is unknown. If you are interested in any of these, please PM me. As for my current project, I am putting a 330hp Camaro 3.6L V6 into my 2011 MiataChimera along with a 6 speed AT. Other have transplanted this engine, but I believe Mine will be the first AT. I've got the mechanicals in place and will start the merging of the LANs next.
  11. http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a10348895/what-you-need-to-know-before-buying-a-1970-1973-datsun-240z/
  12. There are two common aspects to fume intrusion, both are related to age and maintenance. First is the length of the exhaust pipe. It should extend beyond the rear valance by several inches so the exhaust gases mix with air that has separated from the body. Second is deterioration of the grommets surrounding the vent hoses entering the passenger compartment behind the vinyl finishing pieces at the rear bulkhead. Some have cited air turbulence caused when the rear tires rotate upward into the rear of the wheel wells. They suggest adding mud flaps there to break up the turbulent rearward of the wheel well. This of course also existed when the cars were new and didn’t cause fume intrusion. While you are at it, check the rear hatch gaskets. Both the one around the perimeter and the air exhaust vents in a series I car. These exhaust vents have rain drains with gaskets that can be compromised over time. Properly maintained, your Z should not suffer from fumes. Don’t settle for less than fume free.
  13. I have following the series on YouTube for some time. They concentrate on muscle cars, but this episode will be helpful to many of our Z owners.
  14. 4 bolt su carbs

    Sorry the spread sheet I have for the various distributors did not have the complete specs but it still has useful information for you. The d6k8-22 was used on the 1980 ZX for both the AT and MT. Static timing (0 RPM) is 10 degrees. Centrifugal advance is a max of 17 degrees at 2500 RPM. So as you are setting timing, set the 2500 RPM to 27 degrees BTDC and let the idle timing fall where it may. I've checked many of the early dissy's and they all max out around 27-28 degrees without vacuum connected. It also mentioned that the Vacuum advance may range up to an additional 30 degrees and may thus be harmful. This is a function of how your vacuum port for the dissy is set up. On Weber carbs, the port only sees vacuum when decelerating like when you suddenly close the throttle. With an AT, if you are not getting stumbling when you quickly close the throttle, I wouldn't worry about leaving it disconnected. Again, without fuel injection, there is no idle speed compensation. Standard method is to set the idle speed with a warm engine in gear and let the idle speed in neutral fall where it may.
  15. 4 bolt su carbs

    Idle speed should always be measured with the car in drive with a warm engine. Idle speed in Park will always be higher. This is normal for carb'ed engines that don't have engine speed controlled by an ECU. 17 degrees advance at what RPM? These distributors are into centrifugal advance at idle speeds and timing will shift at different RPMs. Sorry, I don't have my manuals with me at present, if you can get the model number off the distributor, I can give you the centrifugal and vacuum advance particulars. The point timing specs listed in the FSM are measured at zero rpm (hence no centrifugal or vacuum advances) with a test light. BTW SU carbs don't really have a choke per se, the choke lever enriches the mixture. Once the engine warms for awhile closing the choke leans the mixture. I have a ZX dissy with an OEM ignition module and they have the equivalent of dual points as well. Though yours with an MSD ignition may have bypassed them.