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Hardway

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Hardway last won the day on March 15

Hardway had the most liked content!

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About Hardway

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    Registered User

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  • Map Location
    Austin TX

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Cars, movies, music, and history.
  • Occupation
    Project Manager

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About My Cars
    8/70 1971 240z #8011. Original 2.4L I-6, 5spd transmission, silvery w/black interior.
  1. It is going to Jacksonville FL. The new owner is excited to get it!
  2. Today marks the last page in the final chapter of owning #8011. Owning this Z has been very a rewarding and educational experience. I had a lot of fun with it, met more people in the Z community, and looking back on it, I got to drive it more than I worked on it. Over the past three years the market for stock series-1 cars has risen and any modifications would ultimately hurt its value. I know many would say "its your car, do what you want" but this car has remained stock all of its life and a large amount of work by the previous owner and myself have continued that legacy for the car. It would be a shame in my opinion to put bigger brakes on it, lowering springs, triple Webers, etc. even though those items would enhance the driving experience. With the rise in values, more Z cars seem to be coming on to the market than ever before so I believe supply is starting to meet demand. With this in mind I put the car on Ebay and even though it did not meet the reserve, the high bidder made me a fair offer after the auction and I accepted. It is headed to Florida and I hope the new owner joins the forums and keeps us posted on it. For me, I am not going anywhere. The classic Z community is one of the most welcoming and supportive groups I know. I had a blast meeting many of you at ZCON this year in Austin and I plan to be at ZCON in Atlanta in 2018, in a classic Z! My first order of business is to get my shop air conditioned so I can work in it year around. I have already started the hunt for another classic Z but this one does not have to be a 240z as my plans for a modified Z car can easily be accomplished with a 260z or a 280z. Below are a few final pictures to share. I will make a point to get on the forums and contribute where I can. Thank you to all of you for your support and I look forward to sharing my next project with you.
  3. 1971 Series-1 240z #8011

    Well it did not sell on Ebay. I shared the reserve of $23K with the high bidder and advised I would fix the blower motor and stuck slider at that price. I drove the car today to Cars and Coffee and it ran great. If the high bidder does not want it at $23K I am keeping it and will still fix the slider and blower motor. Beyond that I have no other plans as I saving to get my shop air conditioned.
  4. 1971 Series-1 240z #8011

    I posted it on eBay to get some better coverage for it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/112513278608?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649
  5. 1971 Series-1 240z #8011

    Up for sale is my 1971 Datsun 240z, built August of 1970, VIN # 8011, and purchased by the original owner on September 30th 1970 from Glendale Datsun in California. I am the fourth owner and have had it since July 2014. Highlights include matching numbers engine that has been rebuilt and completely detailed with head work done by Glen’s Machine in Round Rock. The 5spd transmission is from a 280z and has been rebuilt and painted. The suspension has been rebuilt with all rubber bushings and all hardware blasted and powder coated satin black. All of the suspension has been kept as close to stock as possible. This is a series-1 car and it has all of its series-1 specific components. I have the original series-1 steering wheel which is in great shape and it is included with the car. I also have a full set of 14x4.5” steel wheels and re-chromed D wheel covers which are also included. The original AM auto-seeking radio works but the bulb is out behind the tuning indicator. The car does have some rust in the passenger side floor pan, a tiny spot on the pass. Side rocker, and both frame rails under the floor were re-welded at some point but it does not look good in my opinion. There is also some filler on the driver side wheel above the frame rail. Other issues include, the top slider in the heater control panel is stuck, the Honda blower motor recently stopped working, the driver side door hinges are worn but the door opens and closes fine. I have an original set of passenger side hinges that can be used for parts. The car runs strong, drives well, stops great, and stays cool in any weather. As some of you may know, the car took second place in the 240z daily driver class at ZCON this year. The passenger side visor is signed by Yoshihiko Matsuo, the original designer of the 240z. The car has been good to me during my ownership but I want to get something I can modify – triple Webers, better brakes, AC, etc. Even though those items are bolt-ons, it would be a shame to change such an original car. Asking $25,000 OBO. The price is very negotiable and I am only posting the car here on the club’s FB and the Classic Z Car site for now. I have tons of pictures and can take pictures of anything a potential buyer would like. However, if you are in the central Texas area, it would be best that you come see it in person. I have a lift at my house and any potential buyer is welcome to inspect it and test drive it. There is too much to tell and this description is the tip of the iceberg of everything that has been done. At the end of the day, I do not want anyone to be surprised or feel like their time was wasted and I only ask the same for those that reach out to me. Ping me on FB or here on the forums if interested and if you already have my contact info already feel free to reach out to me. Thank you for looking.
  6. Sold my 1970 this wk, values trending??

    Congrats on the sale jlenownnab. Given the fact its a series-1 in a desirable color, has the sunroof, and like you mentioned a little rust, I think $17K is spot on for the current market. I agree, I think with the right car some buyers can see past the sunroof as the cars are reaching a point where the investment in correcting it will payoff down the road. Plus, the new owner will get the enjoyment of it being a closed roof like the original designers intended.
  7. HLS30 04575

    Those wheel covers came out great! Since you mentioned at the top of this thread you were unsure about the direction of the restoration and questioning if this was the project for you at this time, have you had anymore thoughts on it? Seems like you are getting some small wins between the ignition system, wheel covers, and other projects you are doing. I looked at the eBay listing again and I can see you have a long road ahead of you from a body stand point. The car does have a lot going for it but is in need of a lot as well.
  8. I liked the article and while I would love to see this $75K 240z he speaks of, his other articles are informative and a little entertaining. He is a car salesman and does provide some insight but none of it is earth shattering. Seems like he writes an article every few months so he is not a regular contributor but its probably not a bad gig.
  9. I have Fairlady S30-01036...need some advice

    I will add my thoughts to this. First, thank you for posting this up and sharing with the community. We love this stuff and can't wait to see more! A lot of value for a vehicle is tied to what you can prove about its history and provenance. If you have proof this car was raced by the factory, that will certainly add a lot of value, especially if it won anything. Without proof of it's history and any accomplishments, its just a JDM Fairlady Z. A JDM Fairlady Z is still special and being a fairly early VIN helps it value. Now move on to the conversion from RHD to LHD. As HS30-H said above, converting a car back to RHD will be extremely expensive and would certainly eat up a very large portion of any restoration budget. Based on your description, the conversion to LHD was pretty thorough so with that, I would just leave it LHD. Again, if you can prove its racing history, there may be a case for restoring it to race specs. I would encourage you to start researching previous owners and drivers of the car. If they are still around, try to make contact, see if you can talk with them or meet in person. If they have a lot of information to share, WRITE IT DOWN. See if they would be willing to sign a statement about the car based on their knowledge. That helps build provenance. See if they have any pictures, records, and best of all, can they put you in contact with anyone else that can tell you about the car. Beyond the fact its a Fairlady Z, it will have suffered through all the wear and problems every other Z car and old car of this era. Condition of engine, drive train, floors, pans, rails, and the rest of the body all play in to the question of what it could be worth. Based on the side picture, there appears to be a build up of dirt on the passenger side rocker panel. Under that could be more dirt but no metal. Without pics of anything else and no mention of the rest of the car, its hard to give any numbers but I will take a stab at it. To answer your questions, what is it worth today and what could it be worth restored? Based on the few pictures and your description as of today, I think its worth $7K. I am sure some people reading this may feel that is offensive but that number is based on everything presented as of today. To get a true value of anything is to know what you truly have. Clean the car out, take lots of pictures, note anything that is interesting or odd, take an inventory of everything you have including any paper work, and post it up here. Does it run and if not can you at least turn the engine over by hand? How do things look under the valve cover? Once we see more, myself and others will chime in with our thoughts and you could easily see estimates of $10K, $15K, or more. Value once restored. You can check finished sale results from BAT, eBay, Hemmings, Mecum, etc. You will find that grade A restored series-1 Z cars sell for between $25K - $60K (The $60K example was recently sold at auction in Hungry) Its unclear what impact the LHD conversion will have on a Fairlady Z but it will not bring as much as a RHD Fairlady Z. That said, a grade A nut and bolt restoration should bring $30K - $50K in the right venue. Based on what you are starting with, that restoration could cost $30K - $50K.
  10. Visited Kameari in Japan!

    Please do a write up! We would all love to read it and see pictures of your adventures in Japan. Doing the 10 day trip with the ZCCA to Japan is a bucket list item of mine but would also like to go and explore on my own. Interesting that Kameari has a 2400 valve cover for sale as that would be a US spec VC. I believe the JDM version should say 2000. I may be wrong so anyone that knows better can correct me. Thank you for posting the pictures and info!
  11. No worries Zedy! I think heater hose is the way to go. Since the rubber serves as a cushioned barrier between the two plates, I would be afraid that an inject-able silicon would just crack or split. The Flex Seal stuff might be an option but its compression strength is unknown. Heater hose is pretty durable, cheap, and readily available. If someone does try one of the alternatives we will be very interested to hear about your results.
  12. Good call CO! I do need to double check everything with it on the ground. I will do that this evening. A good reminder for all of us!
  13. Wow! This thread has really taken off. Once again the Z community is out in force. Well GOOD NEWS! I solved MY rear diff clunk (yours may be different). I went back to my original "diff sandwich" setup but with a small update. First, using another member's suggestion I cut a piece of heater hose and inserted it in between the two plates of the lower diff mount. This took some real effort as I used a large flat head screw driver to pry open the mount enough to get the piece of heater hose in. As I talked about it later with Mike W, it probably would have been easier to put it on the diff so it was held in place while I worked on it. Either way, its in and you can see it in the pictures below. Next I had ordered a new snubber bushing for my RT mount a few weeks ago. If anyone is wondering they are made by Prothane and are part number 19-1318-BL. Got 'em on Amazon for $17.61 shipped for two as they are sold in pairs. Just like I did with my old '72 240z, I only cut off one layer of the bushing. I also cut the threaded stud down to clear the parking brake mechanism. Using my adjustable safety stand I was able to push up on the cross member to get all four bolts in over half way, then working from side to side I tightened in equal steps and torqued anything down. With everything buttoned up I did a once over on all the other suspension fasteners to make sure they nice and tight and they were. Down came the car for a test drive, success! Just cruising around and doing some spirited driver revealed no clunks or noises. The only time I heard anything was when I drove it really hard, almost approaching abuse I could hear and feel the rear drive line make a thump/thud sound but not quite a clunk. I think it was just from drive train shock from hard driving. I never drive the car like this so in my opinion I think everything is good as the drive line now feels rock solid. I do not get any noise or vibration from this setup either. If you have any questions please post them and I will do my best to address them.
  14. Thanks for the info guys. I know my strut inserts are good as I did them not that along ago. I double checked to ensure they were seated properly and allowed no movement with the gland nut installed. I have a lift but I cannot put enough rotational torque on the driveshaft to simulate the load needed to move whatever is being moved. With the previous "sandwich" setup I tried moving everything I could using my adjustable safety stand. Everything seems rock solid. I am debating on removing the webbed bushing from the mustache bar and install some poly bushings. I have some extra Prothane snubber bushings so when I go back to the sandwich setup, I may cut less off so the diff is tighter in the sandwich. Wife is out of town this weekend so the Z will get plenty of attention.
  15. This is a legit offering. Its being put on by DPAN, Datsun Parts and Needs and has been on Facebook for a little while now. I believe the organizer is Isaiah Thomas.
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