Hardway

Members
  • Content count

    1,049
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

Hardway last won the day on March 15

Hardway had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

129 Excellent

4 Followers

About Hardway

  • Rank
    Registered User

Contact

  • Member Map Location
    Austin TX

Profile

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Cars, movies, music, and history.
  • Occupation
    Project Manager

My Z Cars

  • About My Cars
    1972 240z, 2.8L I-6, ZX 5spd, wrapped in Lime Green paint!
  1. Thanks guys! Running longer brake hoses is common in the Jeep/4x4 community. Some of those guys are running extra feet of hose with no issues. Now I just need to find a place to make me some. I will keep you posted with what I find. Yeah, on the rear you will never get around unbolting the half-shafts and disconnecting the e-brake cable. That is simple stuff and does not waste anything unlike rounds of bleeding brakes.
  2. Has anyone ever had longer brakes hoses made for their classic Z? I am doing some rear suspension component testing and pretty much cannot swap out anything with out opening the brake system. It seems that if the brake line was 3-4 inches longer the system could stay closed and I could swap components at will. Of course, I am sure the length of hose was determined by an engineer but was curious if Is spec'd a stainless set from a brake hose company would there be any negative affects?
  3. Thank you everyone. You are right, testing them by hand is not an accurate test, I just hoped they would have more resistance. I had the rear suspension apart today and compared the KYB's to what I had installed before, some Ebay inserts that actually have the same part number as the KYB's. They pretty much felt the same and rebounded just as quickly as the KYB's so I left them in for now.
  4. I just received a pair of rear KYB strut inserts, part# 361001. I know they have to be compressed and allowed to rebound a few times to "activate" them. As I did this the pressure needed to push the piston down did increase some but after 10 - 15 cycles, it still does not feel stiff enough. I know these are considered as close to a factory replacement that is available but I was hoping for a little more pressure. What has been your take on these out of the box?
  5. Those look fantastic! If the run as good as they look your motor should purr at idle and scream at WOT. Keep us posted!
  6. I am sorry Patcon. I tried my best to let everyone know their availability. If I do decide to move forward with another run I will let everyone know. Thank you for the compliments 26th-Z. The company that made them and plated them did a great job. I have already sent some business their way from other fellow car enthusiasts. I am sure someone could get a factory overseas to make 10,000 of them for the price I paid for 100 but I am not that someone. Plus, I wanted to make sure that anyone that bought them knew exactly what they were getting from a fit and quality stand point.
  7. You will have to take it out and have a radiator shop or someone that can tig weld aluminum. Regarding the fear of metal shavings I am sure the shop would thoroughly flush it out as part of the repair. Shocking that it does not have a drain **** on it. Who is it made by?
  8. "That's all folks!" The last set of clips just sold on Ebay. I appreciate everyone that purchased a set and look forward to meeting up with those that will be picking up their sets at ZCON. This has been a team effort for sure and I thank everyone who was a part of it. They say it takes a village to raise a child, it certainly takes a community to keep these old cars on the road. If a large enough need presents itself I would consider doing another run but I feel this first run took care of a lot of folks that were needing them.
  9. "That's all folks!" The last set of clips just sold. I appreciate everyone that purchased a set. This thread can be closed.
  10. Thank you loudoun! I will shipping out tonight's purchases tomorrow afternoon.
  11. Since I was not getting anymore orders from here I put the remaining 18 sets on Ebay. You can find them here if you would like a set. http://www.ebay.com/itm/112366651557?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 Thank you!
  12. Yes I did test it. It repels water very well but if you submerge it in water it will soak up a little but nothing like a sponge. You are correct, the thicker piece was too thick and would not collapse enough to get the duct work under the holes in the hatch as the sheet metal is bent downwards. The 3mm piece was spot on as it would compress enough to allow it to be worked in to place.
  13. I think I used axle high temp bearing grease when I did mine on my '72 240z several years ago. I no longer have the car so I cannot say how it has held up.
  14. I have responded to your requests Philip and Jim. Thank you for the compliments on the clips. Just glad I could solve one of my own problems and help others at the same time. I was not able to find any barrel clips that were small enough for the holes as everything I had on hand was too big. Knowing I will remove these at some point in the future to paint the car, I did not want to do something so secure that it would break the pins off when I remove them. I ended up using some black RTV gasket maker to essentially glue them in place. Using some blocked of styrofoam and a few bungee cords wrapped around the hatch to apply pressure on each end, the final result looks fantastic. They sit nice and flush against the body. I tried pulling up on them and so far they seem pretty secure. Below are some pictures of the end result. Job done!
  15. With the new hatch vent clips in hand I set about getting everything back together. I stopped by Hobby Lobby and picked up some 3mm and 7mm closed cell foam. It is made by Silly Winks. Using the rubber duct seal I bought from Steve I made a template of what the seal should look like. Since I had both sizes of foam I cut out gaskets from each size. After some initial testing I determined the thicker foam would not collapse enough to fit in the hatch opening. Below is a comparison. Using some automotive contact cement I glued the rubber gasket to the duct. The used the #10 speed nut I bought from the auto parts store as it is a 95% match to the original. I sprayed some 3M spray adhesive to the foam gasket I made, placed it on the rubber gasket and let it set up for about 15 minutes. I patiently worked the assembly duct back in to the hatch opening, taking care not to damage the foam gasket. After a few minutes of fiddling, it was in. I then secured it using the clips I had made. The clips hold the assembly nice and tight! Now that the severe weather has passed I am going to track down some barrel clips so I can attach the chrome plastic grilles over the vent openings. The finish line is in sight!