Hardway

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Hardway last won the day on March 15

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About Hardway

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    Austin TX

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    Cars, movies, music, and history.
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    Project Manager

My Z Cars

  • About My Cars
    1972 240z, 2.8L I-6, ZX 5spd, wrapped in Lime Green paint!
  1. In my experience with Eibach springs in the past, the Pro-Kit springs are black/dark grey and the Sport Line springs are red. Sport Line's are usually lower than Pro-Kits. I am unsure if they ever made Sport Line's for the classic Z's.
  2. Zed, is the front of your car sitting a little higher than the rear? It is hard to tell as the picture gets darker towards the front. Gosh I want some Panasports! Love your car Zed.
  3. So glad you got it done Diseazed and with no damage to the tubes. Goes to show, sometimes you got to leave it to the pros.
  4. Good news! I QC'd the second clip this morning and it is 100% spot on. I gave them the green light to make the other 99 and then send them off for clear zinc plating. Turn around is about 2 weeks from today. This will be a total of 100 clips (25 sets) I will be keeping 2 for myself and selling the remaining 23. Once I have all the clips in my hand I will post an official thread in the Garage Business forum. Zup, I have your clips and will be sending them back to you soon. Once i do I will PM you the details. Thank you again for letting me use them to get this project off the ground.
  5. A quick update. I went and QC'd the hatch clip this afternoon. The metal was not thick like I thought and easily rested flush in the recess of the hatch vent trim. There were two minor issues. 1. The hole was a little too far to the right based on the pictures. 2. The bend on the bottom and far right was a little too long. It actually would have worked the way it was but I asked it be corrected to match the original more. The next test clip should be ready tomorrow or Wednesday. I will keep everyone posted.
  6. Hey Zed, with the Eibach Pro-kit springs, how much suspension travel do you have with your car on the ground? What strut are you using? Do you run a bump stop at the top of your struts? I remember seeing pictures from other owners with the Pro-kit springs and a ES poly bump stop that they had only an inch or two of travel before the gland nut would hit the bump stop. I am going back and forth on what to do with my Z regarding a suspension upgrade.
  7. Got a few updates. First, I received pictures of the test clip they produced. They called me last week and they were having trouble making the clip due to the spring steel breaking while they were bending it. The clip they were able to make looks a little thick. I have an appointment tomorrow afternoon to check it out in person with my digital calipers. An issue I see with the metal being too thick is the chrome vent cover will not be able to sit on the metal. It already has a shallow recess for the stock clip and I am concerned this new one may not fit in the recess. I am taking a cover with me too for my test fitting. Check out the pictures below. While I was at the parts store picking up some items and looked through the Dorman hardware section. I found packages of #8 and #10 speed nuts. In the middle is the OEM spring nut that Zup has loaned me. On the left is the #8 part number 454060BP. On the right is the #10 and its part number is 454030BP. The #10 looks really close and I am unsure if it is possible to find anything closer. I still need to check out Auveco but thought I would share my findings.
  8. Since it has been re-listed I will add my thoughts and suggestions. 1. You need to add the all of the pictures from under the car to the auction. We know someone can always ask for them but being more upfront from the beginning drives buyer confidence and lowers your inbox count. 2. Lower your starting bid to something like $5,000 and let the bidders bid. Add a reserve back if you like but the market spoke once at $26,100 but that was without the chassis pictures. You should have dropped your reserve to meet it because that is a very strong number and after people see the chassis pics, you won't see it again. 3. I think the value of the car as it is shown and taking in to account the pictures of underneath is around $12K - $18K. I know that is far from the other numbers you hoped for and someone overseas or in the rust belt might pay more but as it has already been said, this is a '73, not the more desirable '70-'72. 4. The suspension has not received any attention in a long time and therefore does not command a $20K+ price. The repair work underneath was not done to a high standard. People will value this in different ways. Some will care less that the floors are flat and the rails are not closer to stock, they will just be happy that someone else replaced them. It will be a deal breaker for others. 5. The color is less than desirable. If it was a more popular color it would bring a few to several thousand more as long it was done to the same quality. Finally, I do not mean to knock the car in any way because it is very nice in it's own right. From what I understand Mike was very proud of it and rightfully so, it is very pretty. At the end of the day it comes down to who wants the most and what they are willing to pay. In the end, I hope you get a number that you, the family, and the buyer are happy with.
  9. I like that tool you made grannyknot! Goes to show, when you a very specific job to do, you need a specific tool. On the topic of "force" needed to get the gland nuts off, I left my rear strut tube attached to the car, disconnected the parking brake cable and half shaft, and was able to swing everything down and away to work on it. My experience was the same using the socket I modified and a pipe wrench as it only took a one good push and it broke loose. I know from previous experience that some heat and 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone might be needed to help break the gland nut loose. However, for anyone using channel locks or pipe wrenches, once the glad nut starts to deform or shear, just stop and walk away. The picture of carnage above and on the previous page can certainly be avoided.
  10. I like your idea Careless. You are right, a box end wrench with a shim would be perfect. My new AST strut inserts are on the way. I will be interested to see what size the gland nuts are that come with them.
  11. The pictures posted above and on the previous page are some real carnage. Sorry to see it all happen. Regarding the use of a 12-point 2" socket like I did, if some of the space at the points needed to be taken up, a thin strip of aluminum or steel, bent at the angle of the of the point in the socket would do it. Probably wouldn't have to do all 8 points either. Just would need something to hold it in place, even temporarily. A dab of axle grease comes to mind.
  12. That is a good idea and I am sure you would find other uses for it too. I will be interested to see how other alternatives work out. Just as an update, I used the socket to remove the gland nut on the driver side strut and it came off just as easy as the other.
  13. I have not decided if I am going to leave them all chrome or paint them. With my current hatch vent duct project and rear suspension work, they are not a priority right now. I like 240260280's idea on paint prep. The pitting is very shallow so it would not take much filler to fill it in. In fact, a few coats of filler primer and sanding would probably do the trick. I am just glad they are no longer rusting away.
  14. That is so funny because a box of larger clips they had were in a green box but I could not tell what name was on it. Now I know! I will research their site and see what I can find. Thank you Mike!
  15. Thanks for the compliments guys. The last time I did this I used two big pipe wrenches and ended gouging up the strut tube and pretty much destroying the gland nut. The socket is much more precise and like all specialty tools, it is an investment. When I got the strut out it was a KYB Excel-G. I don't know why it failed but I do not believe it is old as I think I have a picture of the previous owner installing new struts on the car when they rebuilt the suspension. I plan to get the driver side rear strut out this this weekend and start shopping around. The fronts seem to be fine so I will look in to some of the popular and new options out there.