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Hardway

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Hardway last won the day on November 29

Hardway had the most liked content!

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About Hardway

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  • Map Location
    Austin TX

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    Male
  • Interests
    Cars, movies, music, and history.
  • Occupation
    Project Manager

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About My Cars
    8/70 1971 240z #8011. Original 2.4L I-6, 5spd transmission, silvery w/black interior.
  1. Awesome! Thank you 240dkw.
  2. The red plastic collar around my check valve has seen better days. On my series-1 Z it had a black rubber collar around the check valve and looked new. Does anyone know where to find these? I hate to buy a whole new valve when I just want to replace the collar. I looked around at Home Depot for awhile and did not really find anything. Any ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thank you!
  3. Last Sunday I officially waived my personal banner of "Mission Accomplished" as I made it out to the final Cars and Coffee of 2017 in the Z. The trip there and back was drama free and the Z got its own fair share of lookers. It was great to hang out with Mike W. and our buddy Kyle McKenzie. The previous owner of the car was there too and was happy to see it out, taking in all the work I had done, and being enjoyed by its new owner. Once the sun came out it got packed fast with lots of foot traffic. My apologies for the poor picture quality as it was nearly impossible to get a picture of our row without people passing by. My goal for 2018 is to start using my DSLR with a glare hood to get better pictures. For now, phase 1 is complete and I am making plans for phase 2.
  4. 240z Series-1 Hatch Duct Clips - $50/set

    Thank you for all of the interest guys. We are still a few weeks out but as soon as they are ready I will let everyone know.
  5. Fabricating a Series 1 deck lid

    I agree with Patcon. The cost and complexity of the re-creating a early hatch plus all of the duct work and parts can be very expensive. Depending on your plans for the car you could run a regular hatch for now and keep on the look out for a S-1 hatch, preferably complete. Due to their rarity you may be looking at the possibility of having to buy an entire car just to get the hatch and parts. Hopefully it does not come to that. Take a look at my thread from earlier this year. It has lots of information and pictures regarding the series-1 hatch and related parts. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/57001-series-1-hatch-vent-duct-clips-restoration-info-needed/
  6. Thank you for the compliments guys! I would never put any Ferrari badges on it but I think a set Borrani spoke wheels would look killer! Unfortunately a set probably cost more than what I paid for the car. The wheels currently on the car are cool but they also date it somewhat to the 90's or early 2000's. For now, I have no plans to replace them as they are in excellent condition and will polish up well. That is interesting on the shims. I honestly can't remember what my previous 240z's had in the way of brake shims but i do not remember them looking like that. Might be later shims like you said. My long term plans for the car are still TBD. I don't see myself doing a restoration of any kind on it but at some point it will need a paint job. Before that there is some rust that needs to be addressed in the rockers as well as the holes in the door that are currently covered by red duct tape (I mean speed tape) Silver is the original color but the red is really growing on me. Even on the short shakedown runs it turns heads at almost every stop light. I am hoping some careful buffing and polishing will give me a year or so of life out of it. My goal is to have a fun Z car to rip around in but also shows well at meets and informal shows. I am certainly achieving the fun goal right now and that alone makes me very happy. Moving in to 2018 the Z will receive a RT diff mount, new steering rack gators, headliner repair/replace, odds & ends, and a lot more cleaning. I am going to try and source a better condition original front bumper and guards as I like the stock look but there is no rush on this. I would also like to have the seats recovered in some black leather with some nice stitching and vents so they look more vintage. The velour screams 1990 but in their defense the seats are super comfy and supportive. If and when the engine comes out to address the sloppy timing chain I would like strip everything out and paint the engine bay as it is currently a mix of black, red, and silver. And the list goes on and on.
  7. Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    Your posts with all the pictures and details is so satisfying to read. Your thread does a great job of showing everything that goes in to truly restoring one of these cars. The devil is in the details and you are executing everything so well. I agree, this is a Pebble Beach worthy car and congratulations to you and the owner for what you have accomplished so far. Keep up the good work!
  8. This evening was very productive. I installed the new rebuilt caliper and hose after work. The old components came off with little fuss and in the grand scheme of things they did not look bad. I know the car has sat off and on for the past few years and either the caliper was sticking or the hose was swelled up inside creating a blockage. I bought the caliper at O'Reilly auto parts for $29.99 and the hose was $17.99. They were the only store that could get me a caliper in a day or two. They are the same price on Amazon but I prefer to buy local when I can in the event I have an issue. A friend of mine gave me a new set of pads so they were free. When I took everything apart there were some nice stainless steel shims in between the pads and the pistons. I have never seen this type of shim before but I took a few minutes with some fine steel wool to clean them up. The before and after is night day. Everything was reassembled and lubed where it needed to be with some anti-seize. Most people would have pulled the rotor and had it turned but despite how the rotor looks it was not grooved and I really did not want to mess with the bearings to pull it. A quick bleed session confirmed everything was sealed up so the wheels went back on for a test drive. The new caliper and hose did the trick as it tracked and stopped straight while driving it. Tonight marked a major milestone for the car as it is now at a point where I feel confident taking it up to highway speeds and to this weekend's Cars and Coffee event. Its been almost 3 months since I bought the car and many projects to get it here. However, it has all been worth it as the car is a blast to drive! The triple Dellortos, ZX 5spd w/Hurst shifter, the LSD, and full suspension make it a great car to toss around and wind out getting on to entrance ramps. I drove it so much I had to stop and put some more gas in it. Seemed like the perfect opportunity for a few photos!
  9. 240z Door Hinge Rebuild

    You are correct NapaBill. The series-1 hinge with the interleaved stop has a larger spring but it is weaker than the later spring. Your theory is correct, the driver side hinge was replaced either due to a collision or the original hinge getting worn out. On my series-1 240z the driver side lower hinge interleave was worn out and would lock/bind up with the spring in place. I ran it without the spring but included a used passenger side hinge to the new owner when I sold it to rob parts off of.
  10. 240z Door Hinge Rebuild

    I have never seen the pin itself for sale but I have not looked that hard yet either. A quick Google search indicates that the pin for American cars is very easy to come by. If worse comes to worse, you could buy another hinge and rob the pin from it. If I had thought about it I would have taken some measurements of my pin when I had it out to see if something could be bought and possibly modified if needed.
  11. Not sure to be honest. It is a lot of slack and the tensioner only provides so much pressure due to how much travel is allowed. Thank you Philip! I like doing the work and documenting it for many reasons as I am inspired by the many other build threads on here and around the net. You are correct, I am turning the engine clock wise and the chain would have slack when the engine rotated counter-clock wise as it backed off the rotation due to compression. I didn't even think to look inside the valve cover. Amazing what slips in your mind when you are "in the zone" Next time I have it off I will take a look. I inspected the valve train and everything looked good, no spare parts were sitting the valley of the head. Good point on the compression check. I already know pulling the motor will be a slippery slope as I would like to do a cam upgrade that would really take advantage of the carbs. I also have the original engine to the car along with all the complete dual SU carb setup and air cleaner. It needs a little work but I may try to get that engine running first before pulling the current engine.
  12. I worked on other stuff too but it was not really picture worthy. This included installing some used door panels that did not have any speaker holes cut in them. With the door panels off the doors were vacuumed out, lock and latch mechanisms lubed, and the window tracks were greased. I installed some new side mirrors and adjusted the rear brakes shoes as they were a little too tight. I did get to drive the car on a short shake down run and it performed very well. I love the sound of the triple Dellortos, the transmission shifted very nicely with the new fluid, and everything seemed to be humming along quite well. I did notice the car tracking to the right a little and as I drove it some more it only got worse and I could smell brake material. Once I was home and the Z back on the lift I confirmed the right caliper was sticking. I am picking up a new/rebuilt caliper and hose tomorrow so that should be resolved tomorrow night. With the carbs running so good I put the air filters back on them which is 30 minute job due to their design and limited space. All in all, a very productive weekend! The final Cars and Coffee at the Oasis is next weekend and I plan to be there even if I have to tow the Z up there. Hopefully it won't come to that as I am really looking forward to making some runs down the toll way in it. Stay tuned!
  13. As previously mentioned one of my horns was not working properly and I have purchased a restoration kit for them. I want to get the car on the road as soon as possible so I decided to run some after market horns for now. After some research and YouTube comparison videos I settled on some Hella Sharp Tone horns for $27.99 shipped off eBay. Don't let the name fool you, they sound like modern loud vehicle horns. They come with yellow cages on the front which would make them stick out from the rest of the car so a color change was in order. After a once over with some steel wool to knock the shine off the paint I put two light coats of satin black on them. Painting conditions were not ideal this weekend and but they look much better and on the car you don't really notice them, which is the point. With the horn button pressed everyone in the immediate area will take notice!
  14. With the valve adjustment done I turned my attention to the driver side door. With the rebuilt hinges the action of the door was much more solid but in order to close it required slamming it hard as I could. Knowing the new weather stripping was a bit big I removed it to ensure the door was aligned properly. With the weatherstripping off the door closed like butter, effortlessly latched, and opened with almost elegant satisfying sound you expect and want in any vehicle. Since the door was spot on I took a risk and cut the bottom third of the weatherstrip off along the lower half of the door opening. This helped a lot as now the door only required a good push to close all the way. However this is not what I want to have to do to close the door every time so I am looking at the Kia Sportege seals and taking a long look at the McMaster-Carr weatherstripping. There is already another recent thread on this topic and I will be following it as well.
  15. Thank you Philip! Unfortunately the hits keep coming with the Red Rocket. I decided to do a valve adjustment since they were tapping pretty good on the last test drive. Some of the locking nuts were so tight I had to use a cheater bar to break them loose. Thankfully they all saw things my way and everything went in to spec. It is a stock cam so I set it stock specs. As I was turning the motor over by hand I kept hearing this tap but couldn't figure it out at first. Then out of the corner of my eye I saw the timing chain tap the inside of the head. I almost thought I was seeing things but my fear was realized when I moved it with my hand. It is stretched for sure and warrants a replacement sooner than later. Luckily I have a new chain kit in the box and all the gaskets already from the lime green Z when I thought about doing it on that one. I will pull the engine to do it as I would like to clean everything up, possibly paint the engine bay, and inspect the clutch. For now, here is a video. Feel free to weep with me.
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