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Zed Head

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Zed Head last won the day on February 8

Zed Head had the most liked content!

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About Zed Head

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    Low Budget/High Value

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    County in, OR

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My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  1. '75 S30 featured on Speedhunters

    Purist. http://www.speedhunters.com/2018/01/the-purists-fairlady-z/
  2. Runs rich, wont rev past 2-3k

    Does the tachometer behave normally? Smooth, seems to correctly match RPM? The tach needle is a clue to ignition problems.
  3. '75 S30 featured on Speedhunters

    The author is listening, via Comments. Maybe somebody can let him down gently. Here's an ironic one, from "researchisyourfriend". I saw the user name and thought he was going to give a lesson. Disappointed.
  4. Runs rich, wont rev past 2-3k

    I explained earlier how a bad ignition module can make it run rich. Too many sparks. It could also cause rev limiting. Overheating. You said that you've tried both AFM's and both ECU's. The distributor is simpler than it seems. A six-spoked metal wheel that has teeth that pass by a magnet. Check the air gap, the resistance of the pickup coil, look for kinked or broken wires. You've kind of worn out the ECU's and AFM's. Ignition will seem like a vacation. Edit - could also be two bad ECU's. Running rich and sudden dying are two signs of a bad ECU.
  5. Runs rich, wont rev past 2-3k

    If somebody adjusted the vane spring on your AFM it could be going full open at low air flow. 246 supplied a re-calibration procedure in the atlanticz.ca link. Out of adjustment AFM fits what you're describing, at least the rich part. Are you sure that nothing is blocking the air path? Air is what allows the engine to rev. Is your throttle body blade opening completely? No rags in the intake ports or intake manifold? If everything is right mechanically it should rev high easily with no load. Try removing the oil filler cap and some vacuum lines and see what happens. Let some air in to blend with all of that fuel.
  6. Bringing a 1977 Z back life

    CZCC.com has the FSM"s here also. 1976 is very close to 77 if you just want to download a chapter instead of the whole book. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/ The Floor Heat warning is just a sensor over the catalytic converter area, and relay. Probably comes on when the key is on but engine not running to verify that the lamp is good, like the Brake Check lamp does. You said "turned it over". That means Start. Did you check for power with the key ON. Check for power at the coil, and at an injector plug or two. Those are out at the ends of the circuit and will tell you if the relays are working, to a point anyway. You can learn a lot with the key On, and a meter check at a variety of spots.
  7. Half shaft u-joints

    Check the dimensions against the specs. in this link - https://www.opticatonline.com/part/moog-driveline-products-393-universal-joint Looks like 56mm from outer groove edge to outer groove edge. Maybe you got the right box/wrong product.
  8. 1973 Datsun 240Z Scarab

    Do you have any documentation? A build sheet? Provenance? 1/4 mile time slips? Would make it more interesting. @ABQ240
  9. '75 S30 featured on Speedhunters

    Sorry, that was pretty negative. What do those SpeedHunter guys do anyway? There are several cars owned by members of this forum that would be ten times better to write about. The period correct thing got me...
  10. '75 S30 featured on Speedhunters

    Interesting car but the writer started with a theme that didn't fit and just kept writing to the theme instead of the car, didn't he? I don't know what a Japanese Fairlady Z looked like but a lot of those parts are new and don't look "70's", even for Japan, I'd guess. The Subaru fart can exhaust tip, the newer wheels, the low profile tires, the racing seats (which he totally ignored when writing about the interior). Nice car, poor write-up. Did they use fender mirrors on 1975 280Z's? Sorry. Just back to my negative form... "Period Correct Z Perfection" is just too much though. It's not correct and it's certainly not perfect.
  11. Runs rich, wont rev past 2-3k

    It's looking like everyone is so hopeful that there's some simple cause for your problem, that we haven't really considered the other parts of the engine. Won't rev, blows black smoke... why'd you buy it? Just kidding, but there are so many unknowns here that you should really go back to the very basics of engines. At least verify that each cylinder creates pressure (measure it if you can), check that the cam timing is correct (there's a notch and a groove), check/set your ignition timing (don't see that mentioned anywhere. Retarded timing will stop engine revving), at least eyeball the valves (set lash if you can), stuff like that. Go back to fundamentals before you get in to the details of the EFI system. The most common AFM problem is running lean in the mid-range. The engine will stumble and buck, you get mad and punch the gas, and it takes off because full throttle adds 27% extra fuel. Or the vane gets stuck and chokes air flow. But if the vane moves freely and you get 180 and 100 ohms on those two measurement, they usually work fine if nobody has messed with the vane spring setting. Just saying, you're starting in the middle of left field.
  12. 1976 280Z Restoration Project

    I looked at my 240Z prop shafts and that divot that Nissan took off of the yoke ears in interesting. I'll bet they used it to expose the cups so that they could clamp them down while staking. If you want some insurance for the clips, you could use one of the billion grades of gap-filling Loctite. Designed to lock bearing races down, which is what the cup is. Spendy but might be worth peace of mind. It could lock the clips on too, so they don't rotate and pop off. They have too many to know which might be best. http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/industrial/green-threadlockers-pre-assembled-wicking-13227.htm
  13. Runs rich, wont rev past 2-3k

    These two seem to be still on the list. When people wash their engines they often describe a wet TVS/TPS as acting like a violent rev-limiter. The engine just stops at higher RPM. The water shorts it. On the ignition system, with reference to EFI and electronic ignition, the ECU uses just simple voltage pulses on Pin 1 to count engine revolutions and determine when to squirt fuel. If it sees too many it will squirt too many times. When the electronic ignition systems go bad they often spark too many times. When mine went bad the tachometer would read about 1.5 times actual engine speed. That's why I asked about the tachometer reading earlier. Just seeing spark doesn't mean it's working correctly. You might dig in to ignition. The GM HEI module is cheap, easy to connect, and good to have around as a spare anyway. The old factory modules are getting old and fail on a regular basis. And the pickup coils in the distributor are known to fail, with wires cracking and shorting as the breaker plate moves. Plus, pickup coil voltage increases with RPM and gets very high. High voltage shorts easier than low voltage. Still wondering about your part numbers. And if your AFM has been adjusted. The glue blob.
  14. I love it when sellers sit head on its valves

    Just funny stuff from the eBay ad.
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