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Zed Head

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Zed Head last won the day on August 29

Zed Head had the most liked content!

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About Zed Head

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    Low Budget/High Value


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    County in, OR


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My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  1. Clutch help in 71 with 5 speed please.

    Is it out now? Take the measurement shown in my picture. Should be around 92 mm to the surface the fork rides on. You don't seem to be measuring anything in yours, the tape is just laying there. The bearing looks right.
  2. FS5W71B 280zx transmisson rebuild

    And don't forget to add some heat to the parts as you're pulling them. Typically has a huge effect.
  3. FS5W71B 280zx transmisson rebuild

    I wasn't clear on what you were trying to remove. Looks like the adapter plate is in the way for my suggestion. How about a cheap Harbor Freight bearing splitter? Designed in two pieces to fit around the shaft. Doesn't have to do any splitting but would give you the "suitable plate" shape to pull on. Here's an example. I think that they make cheaper versions. Maybe you can borrow one at OReilly Auto. Might give you ideas on some sort of collar that can do the same job, also. https://www.harborfreight.com/large-bearing-separator-3979.html
  4. Pay it forward!!!

    I have a garage-load of 280Z parts. 1978 EFI harness and various relays. AFM hoses. A few AFMs. Some ECUs. Exhaust pipes, etc. Some R200s. Looking to reduce my hoard. If anyone has an obscure need, let me know and I'll try to figure out how to get it to you, for some small number, mostly to cover shipping and effort. I live in the Portland OR metro area, for the big stuff.
  5. FS5W71B 280zx transmisson rebuild

    I have a vague memory of somebody describing a "puller" they devised using a long length of pipe, longer than the shaft. You stick the shaft down the pipe then drop the whole assembly on to a concrete floor, pipe end first. The inertia of the shaft pulls it free.
  6. Rear brake conversion

    One advantage to rear discs might be that they'll be more consistent in pedal feel. I've noticed that I can tell when the adjuster in the back has moved to the next notch, with my drum brakes. But it's a lot of work for a small benefit. There's a whole range of pads out there to get more stop from the fronts. Not a lot of choice in the back though. That would be one more benefit. So, if you really want to put the effort in you could make a system that is more consistent and has more media choice. But, really, they're pretty good brakes. The front rotors are huge for the size of the car. I bought a pair at a wrecking yard and the girl at the counter tried to charge me for truck rotors.
  7. Camshaft NA to turbo swamp

    Is there a letter stamped in to the back? Nissan ID'ed the cam profiles with a letter. Turbo profiles are generally different from NA, but the early turbo engines were pretty primitive. Nissan may not have used a unique cam profile. If you have the link to the eBay page we can inspect the pictures. It would be a straight swap, and would work even if the profile is different.
  8. MegaSquirt Tuning

    You have some nice parts. Not really clear what you're adjusting though. "Increased the levels" could mean almost anything. Air-fuel ratio is the amount of air over the amount of fuel. So 15 is leaner than 10. More air, less fuel for 15 than 10. Assuming that the parts are worth saving, you might consider getting some help. Even the stock turbo engines are prone to detonation. An L6 built for performance could probably blow itself up much much easier. You don't know what you have. It might not even be built for pump gas. If it was my money and time, I'd figure out as much as I could about what I had. Measure cylinder pressure, it is a clue about compression ratio. Look for ID marks on the camshaft. Figure out what type of turbo you're using. People blow up the Nissan L6 turbo engines on a regular basis.
  9. L28 Head Gasket Failure

    It was still hanging from the plug wire? How did you not see it?
  10. MegaSquirt Tuning

    180 is normal for the Nissan L6. Your thermostat and radiator should be the controlling factor there, not your tune. Some people use exhaust gas temperature as a tuning aid. But not engine temperature. Actually, you should be waiting until the engine gets to operating temperature before doing any fine tuning, not watching it go up and down. Your injectors are almost 600 cc/min. That's way high. Most people shooting for high horsepower with their turbo engines use 440cc/min injectors. Supra injectors are common. Makes you wonder if the PO was building a drag strip car. Have you checked specs on the turbo? It might be overkill also. Cam specs? Compression ratio? Make sure the engine has a thermostat also. Race guys like to run without one, but their true purpose is to heat the engine up, then maintain that temperature. Could be why your engine temps don't stabilize. Not uncommon to pop the thermostat cover and find nothing in there.
  11. MegaSquirt Tuning

    An AFR of 18 is super lean. Coughing (unburnt fuel) would only come from a lean misfire. Your injectors should allow 525 HP. Doubt that your turbo'ed L6 is going to get there (no offense). Going too big on the injectors makes controlling idle AFR's difficult, because they squirt too much at the lowest controllable open durations. You could probably go to a smaller injector and get better tuning control. The stock 280ZX turbo injectors only flowed 25 lbs/hr (265 cc/min). Your choice is a bit exuberant. https://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx
  12. main shaft nub FS5W71B 280 ZX

    One area that I seem to remember that could be a deal-killer is the shafts themselves. If I recall right, the needle bearings ride directly on the shaft. So if they die and get ground up they can damage the shaft. Eurodat probably knows for sure. I think that if you had a needle bearing problem the gear involved would rock or move perpendicular to the shaft. Might give everything a good wiggle while you're measuring clearances.
  13. main shaft nub FS5W71B 280 ZX

    Have you determined the source of the grinding noise yet? If some major part is broken you might be planning to fix the unfixable.
  14. #3 "IGN" Fuse keeps blowing.

    I would disconnect the VR and the alternator and see if the short stays. Then count the horse teeth. Just kidding SteveJ... Obscure philosophy reference....
  15. #3 "IGN" Fuse keeps blowing.

    Try disconnecting the Pertronix unit. It could be shorted. Fits the initial "rev" symptom, I think.