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HS30-H last won the day on July 31

HS30-H had the most liked content!

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About HS30-H

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    London, England, UK.


My Z Cars

  • About My Cars
    72 Fairlady 240ZG ( HS30-H ) x 2, 1970 PS30-SB Fairlady Z432-R replica project, 1970 HLS30U & 1971 KPGC10 Skyline GT-R.
  1. Sunvisor for 240Z wanted for RHD Car

    Good point. I have a vague memory that you can switch them around 180 degrees on the mount. The driver's side has the little card pockets, of course.
  2. Sunvisor for 240Z wanted for RHD Car

    Black no problem, but Beige/Butterscotch? I don't ever recall seeing a proper UK market 240Z with an interior colourway other than black. They would have been hugely in the minority in-period, and just about nonexistent now...
  3. If you're truly interested, you might have some reading-up to do. The L20 six was the first of Nissan's L-series engines, dating back to late 1964. The updated L20A six (given that 'A' suffix to differentiate it from the L20B four that was then being planned) was fitted to several Nissan models including the Japanese market S30-series Z from 1969 through 1978. Japan got the option of L24-engined Zs from late 1971 through to the end of 1973, and the S20 24 valve twin cam six from 1969 through 1973, but the L20A and superseding L20AE were the staple Japanese market engines for the S30/S31 models. L20A/L20AE bore and stroke was 78mm x 69.7mm.
  4. Not at all, actually. The L20 six was the first *real* engine that the S30-series Z project was conceived with. It existed way before the L24, so nobody 'made it smaller'...
  5. A Friends new ride!

    I think that vinyl roof needs stronger adhesive...
  6. Sumitomo MK63 pads?

    Personally I'd go for The Real Thing when it comes to brake parts, and fit genuine Sumitomo MK63 pads. However, there's an OEM Ford fitment that uses a similarly shaped pad to the solid rotor MK63, and they will work with a little modification. I don't know what your local market part number will be, but there's a Ferodo-branded DS2500 compound reference part number of FCP167H. Maybe you can cross-reference?
  7. 'S30-01036' - as an early 1970-build 'S30' model 'Fairlady Z-L', would have been fitted with an L20A engine, FS5C71-A 5-speed overdrive transmission and 3.9:1 ratio R180 differential. The remaining - splined - back half of the propshaft seen in the photos appears to be correct for the original 2-piece, sliding spline-jointed propshaft with flanged U/Js at both ends that would have been factory spec for this car:
  8. I'd say that your ad needs more detail description on the Fairlady Z-L (and more detail photos) to be more effective. You'll attract an awful lot of time-wasters and dreamers unless you give them a reality check, and the kind of people who might well take it on as a realistic project will be needing more to go on too. The situation regarding (possibly important to certain buyers....) key missing parts is not ideal. I'm sure you realise that, but if there's anything that can be done about it I'd be trying to settle the issue before sale if I were you. In the previous thread, I asked whether the original firewall-engraved chassis number was present and correct. The answer will be one of several key points for what I would class as 'serious' potential buyers.
  9. (inextricably) Related thread:
  10. Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432

    Kats, If this is for the L24 in your 240ZG, I would go with the later system. It seems to me that it is more appropriate for the later car. For my 432-R replica project car (1970 Fairlady Z-L based) I found a full 20010-E4201 and 20050-E4200 system. I am using an R192 diff in the stock, early, location. Pipe bending/shaping on the early system is very distinctive!
  11. Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432

    Hi Kats, My impression is that the white paint mark on the 'U' clamp corresponds with the rubber 'snubber' block. The thread on that side is longer, and corresponds with the snubber block. When fitting, you tighten the nut on the side with the shorter thread just to the point where it is snug, then you tighten the nut on the snubber side so that the snubber block is firmly against the crossmember. The longer thread on that side allows you to do that. That's the way I've fitted them before, and it seems to make sense to me.
  12. VIN Decoding

    Not with an HLS30-prefixed chassis number and that build year. 'European' mainland market would only be RLS30 ('260Z') and GRLS30 ('260Z 2+2') from late 1973 through 1978.
  13. VIN Decoding

    If the car has a "back seat" (ie, it's a 2+2) and it doesn't have a letter 'G' in the chassis prefix, then it's an impostor. And if it was indeed built in 1978, and was for the north American market, then it was never a '260Z' whether 2-seater or 2+2. You're not describing it very well, either way. Is it a 2-seater or a 2+2? All S30-series Zs are "2 dr". Does it have a North American market door jamb tag and dash tag, or not? When you mention "vin number", are you referring to the full number engraved on the firewall sheetmetal (have you checked it?) and not just the tag in the engine bay?
  14. I have Fairlady S30-01036...need some advice

    So what was the "low VIN club guys" comment all about then?
  15. I have Fairlady S30-01036...need some advice

    (my bold) What's the "..."not worthy" thing..." you are referring to? Have I missed some posts? With respect, I think you have to expect straight talk on a marque specialist forum. I'm not going to blow smoke up your rear end for you and if I see claims - no matter who they are attributed to - that I believe are mistaken, unlikely or just plain wrong then I'm going to speak up. I think it's fair to say that I know a little bit about the Japanese market models and I'm probably one of their most passionate advocates on this forum. I think I have a pretty good handle on what your car was and is, and if you put it in front of us on this forum I'm going to say it as I see it. As a car enthusiast, I can't believe you would honestly want to hear only *good stuff* or have people swallow every tenth-hand tale whole? If you acknowledge this forum's integrity - which I think you have done, by asking your questions here - then you have to accept that you might not necessarily be pleased by every response you get. Am I right? My feeling is that these cars can tell us a lot if we only learn to listen. Your Fairlady - even from the limited photos you have posted - says quite a lot about itself. I think the fact that the rear arches have not been cut, and that the trailing edges of the lower section on the G-nose have not been relieved says a lot, and it's likely that it has never been fitted with very wide wheels, as many were in-period. My personal view is that this is a good thing, both for the lower panel of the G-Nose (they are worth more if they have not been chopped) and the 'shell of the car, which is - in my opinion - better off in stock configuration. I've already stated that I think it very unlikely that this car was circuit raced in period (scrutineering for even the most basic clubmans races in Japan would require fuel and safety-related changes that would be difficult to erase completely) and I also think it much more likely the RHD to LHD conversion was done in USA than in Japan. Some deeper research would surely answer a lot of questions. You asked about value but - as has been pointed out - the photos are not enough to go on. In my first reply I asked about the firewall-engraved body number, but you have not answered that question. It's quite an important point for the destiny of the car, I think. So too are the details of the RHD to LHD conversion. From your description, it sounds as though this was not a whole firewall change and that the original RHD details were covered or patched? To my mind that makes it more viable to be reversed. As an early 1970 production car, it surely makes much more sense to turn it back to its original RHD layout - even if you are forced to use slightly later componentry (such as the dash, for instance) - as if it's kept in LHD configuration it is neither fish nor fowl. It doesn't need to be 100% stock. Some Japanese period-correct touches would not be frowned on, but I think it needs that RHD layout for it to actually mean something in the context of its true origin and its original market. The G-nose, to my mind, seems a little incongruous on an early 1970 car. Stock body would surely make more sense?