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Found 3 results

  1. Hello, I am hoping to get some help and answers. Bought a 73' 240z with a 4 speed that had no leaks (as PO claimed) It had no leaks because there was no fluid in tranny. Drained it and hardly any fluid poured out. Had some metal shavings After filling I find out there is a leak at the tail housing. I changed the seal (which was clearly damaged) with a National seal part#710324 This seal had a larger depth than the seal that it had. Had a terrible time trying to place it all the way in. Filled it up, went for a drive. Still leaking. I did some researching found another part #3771 had the same inside/outside diameter and was closer to the depth of the ripped seal. Had an easier time installing this seal. Filled it up, went for a drive. Still leaking. Am I getting the wrong seals? After both replacements I ran the car through all gears with the rear lifted and no leaks. Not sure if this is important. I am guessing the metal shavings are from a bearing. So I am shopping around for a replacement kit. Zcardepot has only one kit with 6 bearings part#800-722 However I searched and found another site, that had rebuild kits for the F4W71B trans except now I see that they have 2 different kits. They have a kit for a F4W70B and F4W71B, with the 70B being sold as a kit for '70-'74 240&260 and the 71B being sold as a kit for '73-'84 260,280, & pickup. Part #'s BK105AWS and BK105WS respectively. These kits only come with 4 bearings as opposed to the Zcardepot kit with 6. So this has me seriously confused. Looking at JDMjunkies there is no mention of a F4W70B. There are plenty of other sites that mention the 70B as the 240z Transmission Since this car came with an L28 engine I am not 100% sure if the tranny was also swapped in. More searching and I see that the difference between 240 and 280 trans is a removable bellhousing. But there is conflicting information stating that the removable bell housing is only for the early 240z's with the 71A transmission. So more confusion. I am hoping someone can give me some true clarification on all this. Thank you.
  2. Dear members, Yesterday my dad just bought a Datsun 240z with a 280 motor swap. Today I figured I’d just check under the car for any oil leaks. And sure enough there was a substantial puddle of oil. Right underneath the u joint. Any one an idea what the cause could be of this leak? Some observations we made: tranmission whines a bit (is this normal behavior?), the car jerked a bit yesterday while accelerating but later stopped jerking. car has been restored (in 1998), recently new fluids: transmission, engine & diff. Also so the right floor pan is rather wet and greasy from underneath the car. I hope sincerely someone can help us out in finding what the cause could be of this oil leak. Thank you in advance! Kind regards, Winston BAE3CD68-CBF7-4EEF-AF46-43474CCDC331.MOV
  3. Hello all, I'm having a frustrating problem and I wanted to get some opinions. I've searched quite a bit but haven't found anything that either I haven't tried or was relevant. That back story: I have a built 3.1L stroker (not done on the cheap) with E31 head running somewhere north of 11:1 compression. The most runs well with good compression across all cylinders. The head has had a sigfnificant amount of work done. Another piece of infromation is that it has a timesert in sparkplug hole number 3 due to an issue with the head that predates me. I'm running triple webers and Electromotive HPX ignition. I AM running PCV, as using advice from Tony D I created a vacuum log with a restrictor on one end for the PCV valve (mounted to a grommet which is mounted where the pipe once was all pressure fit). So I THINK I'm exacuating pressure from the crankcase. I have no other leaks that I know of. Engine mileage is 1200. Onto the issue: Symptom #1: On cylinder number 3, I have a small amount of oil coming out of the spark plug hole while the engine runs. As I drive, it slowly works it's way down the side of the block and makes a mess of things. Symptom #2: When the engine starts after sitting for more than a few hours, I get a greyish smoke while I idle. Once I drive off into the sunset, the smoke dies off and doesn't reappear until the car has been off for several hours. Things I have checked: Valve Cover Gasket - it doesn't leak and the oil clearly originates from the spark plug hole. Spark Plug Torque: It's well torqued, but even it if it wasn't, you would expect something other than oil to escape. Valve Seals - I replaced them last night and the problem persists. Ignition - the plug is firing correctly, so I wouldn't think it's unspent fuel coming out. I'm not running overly rich either, 12.5 at idle. 13ish -.13.8 at WOT on the idle/progression circuits and 13.0ish on the main circuit. And now on to what's left for my theories: Head cracked - Lord, I hope not. Oil passage nicked - Along the above lines, do the oil passages run anywhere close to the spark plug holes that a timesert may have affected. Oil passage nicked - I assume there is way too much metal in the combustion chamber that the machine shop doing the head work could have gotten close to oil passages? Bad oil control rings - If I had a bad oil control ring, would I not be BURNING oil consistently rather than for a few moments at startup (aka like when you have bad valve stem seals)? Also, would it be possible for oil to find it's way all the way up the cylinder wall and out a spark plug hole? Bad head gasket - I have an HKS 1mm head gasket on now. The problem existed with an HKS 2mm head gasket as well. Using ARP studs torqued to spec. Of all those, I would prefer one of the last two to be the case even though I don't relish pulling the engine anytime soon. The oil comes out clean with no antifreeze or anything else in it when drained. The antifreeze looks good. Thanks, Brett
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