RCR Z

Check out the attached

What numbers are you looking to see? I do not know how to decipher the numbers on the glass. Thanks, Dennis

I get that info later this week when returning home from a business trip.

RESTORATION PROJECT DONE & CLEARING OUT THE SHED. NO REASONABLE CASH OFFER REFUSED. L26 Motor with E88 Head- 074185 4 Speed Transmission - Likely L4W71B Aluminum Radiator Door Window Frames (L & R) Fiberglass Headlight Scoops (L&R) R-200 Differential 4:11 R180 Differential 3:36 2-Hitachi 3 screw Carburetors (HJG46W?) Mounted to N36 Intakes NEW - 2 each 12" Electric Fans with Controller Set of 4 - 280ZX Wheels Front Bumper with Valence Panel - Good Condition Rear Bumper - Bumper Ends Good Center Poor Full Sets of Windshield and Rear Deck Glass Stainless Trim Grille Front Valence Pieces New Rubber Weatherstrip - Window Glass Run, Rear Deck Glass, 1/4 Window, Cowl to Hood Windshield Passenger Window Glass 1970 Deck Glass with Vertical Defroster Wires TOO MANY MORE VARIOUS PARTS TO LIST!!

View Advert Deck Lid Needed Need a Deck Lid to continue my 70 240Z restoration. A deck lid indecent condition from any fitting year will work. Advertiser RCR Z Date 12/06/2020 Price $1.00 Category Parts Wanted Year 1970 Model 240Z

Sorry to have confused you. Hatch, lift gate, rear hatch, hatchback, they all reference a door that opens......Miriam Webster agrees!!

View Advert ‘70 240Z Lift Gate Wanted Looking for rust free lift gate for preferably 70 Z but can make a later Series 1 work. Advertiser RCR Z Date 04/19/2020 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1970 Model 240Z

Not sure of their full offerings but have you tried Affordable Auto Color or Tasco Auto Body Supply in Austin? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

You aren’t nuts, but if the Tach worked before the Pertronix install and the wire as you found them, logically to me it may not be the wires found. The Tach fix described is easy to do and put back if it does not change the issue. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I had a very similar problem with my ‘70. Check out this link for the fix per Ian at Pertronix: Petronix Ignition Module https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eclassiczcars%2Ecom%2Fapplications%2Ftapatalk%2Findex%2Ephp%3F%2Ftopic%2F59838-Petronix-Ignition-Module&share_tid=59838&share_fid=83168&share_type=t Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Mine also had cracks causing it to fall off easily. To avoid cutting away the foam, I used standard safety wire that is used for securing nuts/bolts on race cars etc. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Good news Guys, Ian at Pertronix had the answer! On the back of the Tach there is a white wire that is looped and fastened via a plastic block, metal bracket and 8mm nut. Ian’s instructions were to unloop the wire one loop at a time. As you can see there was only one loop. So I pushed the wire with the black band through the plastic block to make the loop larger. The Tach now revs through the entire range. At least up to 5200 where I decided to stop. Will have to wait for her to get on the road before checking it up to redline!!! Thanks for all your input and I hope this info helps others! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks guys!!! Will let you know what happens! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

There is nothing electrical about the choke so I think it has to with the motor RPMs. To your point of current, as the rpms increase doesn’t the alternator current? The car is fitted with the MSA internal regulator alternator but don’t think that should make a difference? Alejandro at MSA told me today they have no idea why this happens on some but not others? Not sure if the earlier models had different wiring with respect to the Tach than did later models? More digging to find out but will let you know the outcome. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile