BadDog

The "metal" pipe on the left is actually a clear plastic tube that has yellowed ... it leads to the air cleaner also. And when my timing was *way* off, and the car dieseled when shut off, I found that gas shoots straight out the top of the fuel bowl, 5 feet into the air and all over your car At least I took those hoses off with the air cleaner assembly, and gas didn't shoot out the hose onto my exhaust manifold :eek: Other evidence of poor tune can be seen in the lower left side of the picture, on the inside fender opposite the mouth of the carb: burn marks!

Yep, and so is whatever vacuum hose operates that little door at the bottom of the air cleaner...

Thanks Visionary!

If you find somthing, let me know if you're going to sell your 240 seats (black?)... my seats aren't in bad condition, but I think they're from a 280Z (no vent thingies in lumbar area)

I think I'll try something temporary first, like duct tape to see if it'll help the cold performance problem, then JB Weld them (I really gotta get some of that stuff) or find the pipe fitting that went in the holes, then block them off. Thanks!

I actually have just the holes there now... here's a pic (from my "choke issues" post, but with new circles drawn ). And oops, the distributor advance isn't hooked up there, it's on the carb... I'm guessing the "leaks" would contribute to rough running when the engine is cold, as the air is coming in behind the throttle plate... I *think* I might have some pipes that go in those holes, I just received a box containing the original carbs, smog crap, A/C & heater parts (what a mess). And do you like the holes cut in my air cleaner? I guess that's a "kludge" to get around the vacuum-operated door for the "heat riser"(?) at the bottom of the air cleaner... as Homer Simpson would say "those are *speed holes*" BTW, disregard the routing of my choke cables... that has been corrected

Thanks, 2ManyZs. Yes, I replaced the inner boots etc. already when I did my choke cables (the bushings were on back order from MSA at that point). I figured it was relatively simple, I just didn't want to go in and try without a clue as to what I was doing

I got the little pieces from MSA... now would anybody care to tell me how to replace the old ones? (on a '73)

I have '72 carbs on my '73, and I assume i have a '73 intake manifold (smug stuff is long gone)... there are a few (3? 2 behind each carb?) vacuum attachment points that aren't plugged on my manifold, with 1 being used by my distrib's vacuum advance. Am I right in assuming these should be plugged? And if so, what should I use? Any other ones that I should check for? My engine runs great once warmed up now that it's tuned up a little, but still runs like crap when cold...

Good thing your coffee didn't spill on your laptop, or you wouldn't have been able to finish that post!

Cool, I just wanted to make sure I don't a special tool or anything Thanks!

It was usually blue at higher RPM's with flashes of yellow... I'm going to play with the steeing wheel tomorrow probably... any idea how to remove/replace it? Min'es off by about 20 degrees ... Yeah, I probably should've checked other cylinders than #1, seeing as there are 2 carbs

Well I had trouble getting my colortune not to show Rich at idle without also having lean pop... I think my needles may need to be adjusted.. Problem is I couldn't get them to budge . NO biggie, if I'm running a little rich for a while, so be it. I only get to drive the once or twice a week anyway, plus I have to sort out a few other issues (like getting the steering wheel centered )

I can sympathize with you... I've got a '73 that I just got a few weeks ago, and was dieseling and backfiring a lot. I have '72 carbs, though... Anyway, I've never tuned an engine before, but I watched about an hour of the Z Therapy video, and with a Unisyn and a screw driver, I got my carbs adjusted pretty well. I also decided to check my timing, as it was still backfiring after balancing the carbs. Turns out that my distributor wasn't tightened down enough, and my timing was set to just *after* Top Dead Center (Agh!!!) With the timing the way it was, and 1 carb not flowing any air at idle (!!) I'm suprised she even ran. She runs pretty well, but I still think she's running a little lean, because I didn't adjust the carbs much past the "lean backfire" phase, she doesn't seem to pull that hard past about 4500 RPM, and I couldn't see my ColorTune in the sunlight outside (I don't have a garage yet). Heck, I even cleaned out the domes and pistons a little (I was trying to check/adjust the needles per the Z Therapy video, but they wouldn't budge ) I'm not sure if I'm brave enough to tackle checking my valves and adjusting them, but they seem to make a lot of noise. Other than that, she runs pretty well. In fact, my on-choke idle is up about 1,000 RPM to about 2,500 (yikes!) but I think I can fix that this weekend but bending or straightening the lever... Anyway, I guess my whole point is that $100 of equipment and video instruction goes a long way with a 240... and you can feel like you've accomplished something, too!

Last night I routed the choke cables through the correct hole in the firewall, and got the grommet in place. I may not have the cable routed correctly inside the car, from the center console ... anyway, now that the cable sheaths don't really move, and they're coming from the right direction, the handle pretty much stays back when you pull it back. I started her cold last night and dropped her off at a shop about 10 mins away (to get steering rack bushings put in to pass NYS inspection), and had no problem driving her. Even my choke light works correctly now

Wow, EScanlon, thanks! Don't worry, I don't *expect* immediate replies to posts I'm just happy that you took the time to give that much great information! I'm sure it'll be of great help Thanks again!

Those rubber boots seem pretty pliable, but they very well *could* be acting as a "return spring", hence my problem of the choke handle not staying in place... judging from your reaction, they're not "original" ? Are there supposed to be any springs attached to the choke mechanism? I think I just have to stop torturing myself and wait until my factory service manuals, etc. arrive from TN and my Z Therapy videos show up

...and YFI just to show that you can't go by a brochure: the pic of the engine bay in the '73 brochure is the same pic as Mike posted (I think for '72?)

#4: "Mystery" vacuum tube circled on left, another candidate circled on right, but used

#3: from passenger side (you can see the "boots")

#2: Top-down view

Here's a few pics I scanned this morning. #1: The "kludge" hole

well, waddayaknow.... Either way, I just ordered my vids from Z Therapy.... figure I better get some "baseline" knowlegde before I bug anybody with more questions that might be covered in there

Update: the tires, installed, were a grand total of $250... they look good and seem to handle well, steering is a lot better than the old, cracked, bald Sears rubber that was on her before As soon as she's running right, and I get some new steering rack bushings installed, I'll be able to test them out better

I'm 95% sure that they're equal lengths... I just got them from MSA. I tried feeding them through that hole, but they have rubber boots on them and a large-ish metal crimp holding the top of the boot (viewing when installed) in place on the sable sheath. I started to barely get 1 through, then realized there wa sno way the other one would fit through also BTW, when I said it seemed like the rear carb choke might be sticking, that was moving the lever *on the carb* by hand (where the cable attaches to it). The cable was unhooked, and sometimes I couldn't move it, other times I could Methinks it needs some lube, I just gotta figure out where... guess I could just spray the whole thing with WD40 and make a mess I'd be bound to hit it BTW I agree that I should use the correct hole on the firewall